5thhorsemann

New stainless steel hard lines to everything. Brakes & fuel, I assume you pulled the tranney as well, great time to get after them.

I think the set and forget benifit of my Pertronix module is the most attractive thing about it. What, like 15 min. to install and you are done with the timing for good, unless it fails. There are many more things on the Z that require tinkering, and if Pertronix made a set and forget widget to replace those items, they would also be installed in my car. I don't mind working on my baby, but I prefer to drive her.

looks easy enough to reproduce using chromed plastic panels. You can get them in bathroom supply aisle at most hardware stores, they cut with a utility knife or snips.

Did you check the voltage at the battery? Does the amp gauge read correctly as accessories are turned on and off?

I dispose of old fuel in a lawn mower mixed 50/50 with fresh gas. Pulling the head is nonsence, fresh gas and oil is right, look over the car, check tires and brakes, lubricate as necessary that should do it. 2 or 3 years isn't really that long for a car to sit.

We paid almost $11k for flexie pro a few years back, it is an awesom graphics program, esential for running the big arse printers we are using. This is why the product is expensive, the software and hardware necessary to create big graphic images from small art is ungoddly expensive. As is so often stated around here, you get what you pay for.

The sign shop SHOULD have flexisign software, if they don't, find another shop. Flexi can take almost any pic or graphic off the internet and turn it into a high res vector to print or plot. Also careful with magnetics on a race course. The cheaper stuff will blow off at around 80 mph.

Here is the German style plate, I used Orecal reflective vinyl for the background and ploted the text and boarder using black metalic high performance 3M cut vinyl. It will fit under the grill where the temporary lights are mounted now, once the body work is finished. If anyone is intrested PM me and I can give you all the details. I went with German, because I am, and the size is perfect.

Went for a 280 mile trip in the 240 yesterday to finish a job on the Delmarva peninsula. I was always suspicious that the speedo was inaccurate, now I have my proof. A Maryland state trooper pulled me over and wrote me a warning ticket, for doing 85 in a 55. He asked me if I knew how fast I was going and I replied 68 or 70, as shown on the speedo. He said he paced me for two miles at a steady 85, but since I was doing everything else safely, passing and lane changes, I only got the warning and some complements on the car. He also liked how I made the German style front tag, and informed me that it was perfectly legal, so thats cool. Other than that the car ran great. So I guess its time for a set of autometer gauges, tach and speedo at least.

The K&N is a high flow reusable part. I have K&N filters in EVERY vehicle I've owned in the last like 20 years, and have noticed, if nothing else at least better fuel milage. Go for the K&N.

With SOME of these old rubber parts, I found they respond to laquer thinner and/or acetone or MEK. Soak a rag with the stuff and wrap it around the hose for a few minuts and it will get soft and expand. It will also destroy the part, so not good if you need to reuse it. But this is a good trick for removing hoses from thin or delicate brass and aluminum nipples before going after them with blades and pry bars.

Could be someone got over on him, There is alot of ignorance with old cars like these, don't feel bad.

Mine (73) is not new but it feels soft, like a radiator hose, hope it helps.

I was watching some rapper (wrapper) crap in the back ground at a bar one night and heard one of them use "cold McDonalds" to describe something f@#ked up. I laughed my a$$ off.

Got Pic's

The knobs are vents. Can't help with the rest, my car is a 240 and as such it dosen't have the other stuff.

They look like neon seats, my mom drives one and the color and pattern looks rite.

F@#Kin' A CROWBAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I like blues idea, but before you do the starting fluid trick, fill the bowls (assuming you have round tops) thru the bowl breather fittings. That should make it run long enough to make it draw the fuel from the tank. You can also put a primer ball in line before the pump and prime the system from the front.

Try putting a small gas can right at the mechanical pump to be sure it is drawing fuel. Pump could have given up the ghost.

My girlfriend knows where and how and still doesn't understand how to do it all the time.

I was driving home yesterday and saw a nice 280ZX turbo car sitting in one of my neighbors driveway. I'm not sure if its a good deal or not, as she is asking "$5 or $6 thousand" for it, and I never shopped these cars or have much intrest in them. Didn't get picks of it, but here are some details I got in talking to her. 1) She is the original owner. 2) It's like a dull metalic purple or plumb color, and it looks like its been repainted at some point. 3) Cloth interior, 4 seater. 4) Manual trans. 5) Has a few small dents and scratches, nothing that would brake the deal. 6) The car runs and drives, although she says she hasen't driven it much since her soon to be X husband got her a BMW Z3 in 2005. I can vouch for that, I didn't even know the car was there. So If anyone is intrested I can get you a phone number and some pics.

Ok, here is how I wired mine up. 1) installed a LATCHING RELAY, similar to this one http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Relay-1EHY4?Pid=search in the door. 2) add a momentary push button switch in a secret location. 3) install secondary relays on the circuts you wish to disable, coil, fuel pump starter relay etc. 4) pull power for the latch from the ACC. circut. Here is how it works. To start the car you turn the key to "run", push the button, the relay closes and latches in the closed position and closes the relays on the coil and starter relay circuts. This allows you to start the car repeatedly as long as you do not turn the key to the off position, so if the car stalls in traffic you can start the car without hitting the switch again. Works terriffic. BTW that is not the relay I used, can't recall the exact part no. but it was a dayton latching relay with two controlled circuts. If it fails while you are on the road, I made splices in the wires above the clutch peddal so you can easily jump them out.

No.1, Suspension

Define "good price" in your terms. If you can come up with the parts and are going to fix and paint the rest anyway, add a grand to his price and see if it is still a good price by your standard. At that point, if you aren't going to buy it, PM me with the details, I'm not that far from you and I might be intrested.