5thhorsemann

Went for a 280 mile trip in the 240 yesterday to finish a job on the Delmarva peninsula. I was always suspicious that the speedo was inaccurate, now I have my proof. A Maryland state trooper pulled me over and wrote me a warning ticket, for doing 85 in a 55. He asked me if I knew how fast I was going and I replied 68 or 70, as shown on the speedo. He said he paced me for two miles at a steady 85, but since I was doing everything else safely, passing and lane changes, I only got the warning and some complements on the car. He also liked how I made the German style front tag, and informed me that it was perfectly legal, so thats cool. Other than that the car ran great. So I guess its time for a set of autometer gauges, tach and speedo at least.

The K&N is a high flow reusable part. I have K&N filters in EVERY vehicle I've owned in the last like 20 years, and have noticed, if nothing else at least better fuel milage. Go for the K&N.

With SOME of these old rubber parts, I found they respond to laquer thinner and/or acetone or MEK. Soak a rag with the stuff and wrap it around the hose for a few minuts and it will get soft and expand. It will also destroy the part, so not good if you need to reuse it. But this is a good trick for removing hoses from thin or delicate brass and aluminum nipples before going after them with blades and pry bars.

Could be someone got over on him, There is alot of ignorance with old cars like these, don't feel bad.

Mine (73) is not new but it feels soft, like a radiator hose, hope it helps.

I was watching some rapper (wrapper) crap in the back ground at a bar one night and heard one of them use "cold McDonalds" to describe something f@#ked up. I laughed my a$$ off.

Got Pic's

The knobs are vents. Can't help with the rest, my car is a 240 and as such it dosen't have the other stuff.

They look like neon seats, my mom drives one and the color and pattern looks rite.

F@#Kin' A CROWBAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I like blues idea, but before you do the starting fluid trick, fill the bowls (assuming you have round tops) thru the bowl breather fittings. That should make it run long enough to make it draw the fuel from the tank. You can also put a primer ball in line before the pump and prime the system from the front.

Try putting a small gas can right at the mechanical pump to be sure it is drawing fuel. Pump could have given up the ghost.

My girlfriend knows where and how and still doesn't understand how to do it all the time.

I was driving home yesterday and saw a nice 280ZX turbo car sitting in one of my neighbors driveway. I'm not sure if its a good deal or not, as she is asking "$5 or $6 thousand" for it, and I never shopped these cars or have much intrest in them. Didn't get picks of it, but here are some details I got in talking to her. 1) She is the original owner. 2) It's like a dull metalic purple or plumb color, and it looks like its been repainted at some point. 3) Cloth interior, 4 seater. 4) Manual trans. 5) Has a few small dents and scratches, nothing that would brake the deal. 6) The car runs and drives, although she says she hasen't driven it much since her soon to be X husband got her a BMW Z3 in 2005. I can vouch for that, I didn't even know the car was there. So If anyone is intrested I can get you a phone number and some pics.

Ok, here is how I wired mine up. 1) installed a LATCHING RELAY, similar to this one http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Relay-1EHY4?Pid=search in the door. 2) add a momentary push button switch in a secret location. 3) install secondary relays on the circuts you wish to disable, coil, fuel pump starter relay etc. 4) pull power for the latch from the ACC. circut. Here is how it works. To start the car you turn the key to "run", push the button, the relay closes and latches in the closed position and closes the relays on the coil and starter relay circuts. This allows you to start the car repeatedly as long as you do not turn the key to the off position, so if the car stalls in traffic you can start the car without hitting the switch again. Works terriffic. BTW that is not the relay I used, can't recall the exact part no. but it was a dayton latching relay with two controlled circuts. If it fails while you are on the road, I made splices in the wires above the clutch peddal so you can easily jump them out.

No.1, Suspension

Define "good price" in your terms. If you can come up with the parts and are going to fix and paint the rest anyway, add a grand to his price and see if it is still a good price by your standard. At that point, if you aren't going to buy it, PM me with the details, I'm not that far from you and I might be intrested.

That car is unknown to me, but on some cars there is a resistor bank in the duct used to controll the fan speed. Check your FSM wiring digram to locate the speed controler and focous on the comon terminal wire. Hope this helps.

You might want to check out the cosmo racing springs and adjusters, under $200.00. No need to section the tubes, can use off the shelf struts and they ride nice so far on mine. If the springs wear out I can replace them through coleman racing.

Man, I spent the whole day behind the wheel Sunday, WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The body roll is almost non existant in normal to sportie cornering, still noticable in really hard curves, but much better. The ride is harder but not harsh. There is almost no front end drive under braking. I couldnt really beat the car as hard as I wanted to, as the rear tires still rub on big bumps, but the body roll tire rub in turns is gone. I can't waite to do the rears this weekend. The install was not hard at all, actually easier than just replacing the struts. No spring compression necessary to reassemble the strut, and I was pleased/lucky that all the bushings and ball joints were tight and in excellent condition. (As it should be on a low milage car) I'll fill in the blanks and do some before and after pics once the back end is done and the ride height is adjusted next week. All I can say is, so far I am impressed.

I put the cozmo coilovers and struts on the front today. I set everything to stock ride height till I get a feel for the travle and stiffness of the new parts. Won't get to the back till next week, no time. I must say, I am very impressed with the quality of the parts, both fit and finish. I left the spring perches on for now so I can change the springs if I don't like the cozmo stuff. So it's off for a test drive, I will report back later.

What Arne said. Took mine to a local lock smith, 2 hours and $25.00 and it was all better with 2 new keys.

Could be the wrong parts. could be the right parts and depending on exactly how loose you might get away with the Loctite bearing/ bushing setter compound. You will have to take accurate measurements and buy the rite compound for your gap, remember to devide the difference by two, its a circle in a circle.

A tape measure wont cut it for these types of dimensions, get a cheap set of calipers (at least) at sears or horbor freight and take some measurements. Are both yolks (all 4 pcs) loose like that or just one?

The new parts should be press fit, check your yolks for roundness and size to see if they are out of round.