5thhorsemann

Looks like an 8" cinder block to me. I had one on an old Mopar I once owned, but that was for traction in the snow.

Not that I am aware of, I went for a header w/o any smog gear on my 73, and she runs NICE. You would get better flow seeing how there is less exhaust to exhaust. (I THINK)

Slick!

I like the German plate, it's exactly what I have in mind, size and all. Thanks for the link John.

I just looked at my original rubber door seals, they look identical to your pics. when the door is closed the flap seals to the jamb gasket, presumably to deflect water away from the window squeegie. Although it does look like mine has been trimmed.

Okay, I've done a bit of research on the maryland laws RE the front tag and bumper issues that were suprisingly brought about herein. I was simply hunting for some pictures of ingeanious tag mounting options. First, as stated above, there is PRESENTLY no law against removing the bumper(s), as long as the body is smoothed accordingly. Not an issue with an early Z car. I do not forsee this ever becoming a problem with the integrated nature of newer bumpers on cars. The tag, on the other hand, is a bit more of a "sticky" issue. I found that there is actually a petition circulating to have the law repealed. http://www.petitiononline.com/mdplate/ In reading the law, which was hard to find online, it seems to be open to alot of interpretation (by law enforcement) as to what is compliant and what isn't. The law states that the registration plate must be displayed on the front of the vehicle, and shall not be obscured from view or mutilated in any way. There is also a subsection that deals with historic cars and trucks that basically states that I can put a tag from the "build year" on the car from any of the 50 states as long as I carry the valid Maryland plates on board with me. This will surely get you pulled over by Buford T. Justice every time. So I called the good tax collectors at the DMV and asked about making a Euro style Tag reading MD-123456 in the same font size as their issued tax stamp (tag) and was suprised by her response. She said "I suppose it would be okay as long as you carry the issued plate with you while opperating the vehicle on the road." Also stated "If the (historic/ antique) vehicle has no accomodation for a forward facing tag, you may display the tag in the windshield by placing it on the dash." So, my solution will be to fabricate a panel that fits between the bottom of the grill and the top of the cowl (the void in the grill where the bumper was located. roughly 4 inches tall.) laminate it with 3M reflective white vinyl and apply ploted black text and boarder to make it look lajit. I'll post a pic when I get done with this little project.

I removed my front bumper and do not plan on replacing it. Where do you think would be a good method of mounting a front tag?

I just looked at mine, they are not a servicable item. Best to replace the whole hinge.

I can tell you on the after market system that I removed from my 73 240 there were no sensors or failsafe devices in the wiring or plumbing. I use the older style 2-70 AC now. (2 windows down and drive 70 MPH)

Position the clip in the slot onthe handel and push the crank over the spline on the regulator. Done.

McMaster Carr has the bushings. I think the bushings I got from them were brass though.

B a d - a $ $

thats dead on 10% variation, I didn't look up wear limits, but I don't think thats enough to neuter the motor.

search the relay circut herein, that will solve your polarity and voltage issues.

no to draining the tank to check your filter. You think you have half a tank, but no gauge. Read this http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42135-Car-won-t-swallow I just went through a similar issue with only getting a half tank off running out of fuel. Could be your trouble. Drain your tank and start by seeing how much fuel you can get in the tank from jump.

Try LOC-LUBE first before getting out the BFH, me thinks

The spring is off of a fuel pump nozzle, from a gas station, I found one in an old 69 Nova. the pre unleaded cars could get the spring past the filler neck rim unlike the new ones.

I wouldn't put a Dunlop on my sons trycycle. Based on past excperiences with their products, they are junk. I had a set of Yokohama Advan Neova AD08's on my 350 and loved them. My 2 cents.

I know it has nothing to do with the subject, but as a coincidence, a friend of mine's son bought a 240zx last night and it overheated on the way home. Long story short I went and looked at the car. Blown head gasket. The PO stuck a potentiometer in the temp gauge circut to dial down the gauge to get the car to sell. Buyer beware.

PM me, I have a plotter and can make whatever you want.

When you say "standard su's" does that mean flat top's? If you already changed to the round top SU's you don't need the electric kicker pump. That was a recall item to combat vaporlock.

Using The pearch remnent to support the sleeve would be sweet, I HOPE that works out. BTW the flap disks rule, I bought 3 fresh disks last week just for this job. I'll use the plasma cutter to rough the perch out and clean it off with the disks.

No sectioning is required, but I am removing the spring perch and adding weld rings although they are not required. (yea right) The rapture got in the way of this weekends planned install in the form of 3 acres of foot tall grass, took like 10 hours over two days to mow it.

Thats the first vote for both that I've seen so far, I like it! BTW Blue, thanks for getting rid of the freakish avatar...........It was creeping me out.

Beating on bearings is not something I would recommend, or tell anyone about after I did it.