5thhorsemann

WGAS what they call it, the S30 is still one of the coolest cars of it's era. I love my Lil' Lady.

I read that one too. My reasons are a combo of looks and street performance, along side the fact that the PO used a bunch of those aluminum spring spreaders to compensate (presumably, he was dead by the time I got my hands on the car) for the worn out springs. I say this because I can see 2 sets of wear marks on the strut shafts, which are worn out stock stuff. (I think they are stock, but know they are worn out) I have a set of N.O.S. Builstiens, still in the box, that I got from a friend that used to race a 73 240Z. He says they are not the best strut by todays standards, but are still a great strut nontheless.

Brakes and bushings are all done already. BTW it's a 73 240. And yes, I bought the threaded sleeve mod kits to dial in my ride height.

Those are the fuses, not the fusable links, the links are down by the starter. They look like rubber blocks moulded into or onto the + wires at the starter.

No worries, that motor ain't made of wax, it can take alot more abuse than that.

You got pics of the new wheels on the car?

Ok, so after months of research, asking questions and generally pissing people off, (around here) I finally went and done it. I ordered my springs and adjuster sleeves for all 4 corners. So looking at the FSM, I see all the little widgets and gizmos involved in the strut assembly. So my question is, what all of them should be replaced in the referb? Obviously, some would simply say all. I would think things like the gland nut which came with the new struts would be a gimmi, but what about the strut bearing and isolator? What about the bumpers, which do not appear to be there? Or the strut isolators? Any of you fine people that have gone with adjuster sleeves like the G.C.'s, please let me know what you ran into, and what I should look for. Thanks in advance, The 5th.

I'm green with envy, That is sweet!

Most auto parts stores carry them. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT CHEAT YOURSELF OUT OF STUD WHEN ADDING SPACERS! If you have to add too much spacer to get at least 1/2 inch thread get longer studs or you could loose a wheel.

Those things are a joke, aside from always getting hooked on cloths and tools and coming open, as you say, they brake off easily. I replace them with the 3M glue dowh wire tie pads. If you need to cut one of the ties out of the pad, you can just slip in a fresh tie and reuse the pad.

If you are going to re do the engine bay, I would do that first. You will end up re doing too many things if you wait till after you get the car mechanically reliable.

1) Make it run reliable, and go through the electrical and fuel systems 2) Tires, suspension, brakes and frame. 3) body and paint last. Surf the net and get an idea of what you want it to look like before you get into steps 2 & 3.

That looks like a 2 part epoxy, or J-B weld to me, note the bubbles from mixing. If that is true, solvents and heat won't touch it. Grind it down till it's almost gone and then work the last of it out with a razor blade. Use caution and work it slow, thats the cheapest and safest way to go.

Whamo.....................................Get a hobbie.

If it is solid and hard, cut it down with a dremle tool and scrape off the thin residue after the fact.

http://www.hagerty.com/Hagerty-Online/News/Features/All-articles/2011/04/29/Top-10-worst-car-names-of-all-time?utm_source=ExactTarget&utm_medium=email&utm_term=May&utm_content=Client&utm_campaign=Hagerty%20News-SL3 What can I say, We made the top 10.:tapemouth

Did you try a PPG dealer, The PPG books go back a long way back if you can find them. You will need to find the older books to get the code for pre 80's cars, I don't believe the cd has anything that old on it.

What are you running for tires?

Did you get rid of the flat top carbs? It sounds exactly like what my 73 was doing before I went to the round top set up and ditched the FT's and smog gear, and oh yea, pictures man, we love pictures.

Glad my humor didn't go to waste.

I was actually talking about travelin mans header. I bought mine (same as his) used on Ebay last year when the flat tops went away. I considered the pace setters to save the stainless steel exhaust that the P.O. put on the car but I went with the 2.5 pipe all the way back. I just had to have an exhaust shop remove the 5 foot stainless twice pipe and tie in to the 2.5 inch stainless behind the trannie. I remember the thread you started about the flange issue, and remember thinking that I made the right decision going the way that I did. It would be good to know what I would be looking for if I ever needed to get another set for a new car or to replace what is on mine now.

Don't know how well this pic will work, but that is stock 73 cable location. Don't cut the fire wall for a choke cable, thats just wrong. You can see the dual boot peaking out just under the hood latch bracket.

Problem found!!!!! Apearently when I replumbed the vent lines last fall, I cut the inner lining of the top hose which created a flapper valve in the tank fitting. air can pass into the top of the tank but not out. I pulled the hose at the tank end, saw the cut liner. removed the first 1 1/2 inches of hose, reattached and the problem is now solved. Drove to the gas station with just under 1/2 tank and she took almost 9 gallons, and reads FULL. Thanks for all the help everyone, kept me from pulling the tank for no reason.

Not to hyjack the thread, but who makes this header? I have the same one on my car and love it but don't know who makes it. Kidd, Its a shame to hide that mill under a hood. Looks really sweet.

The I.V. setup is what I have used with success several times, but here is my twist. 1) set up a 5 gallon can at the back of the car, and plumb a rubber hose as a return line into the can. 2) get your hands on a ford electric in tank fuel pump from a 1980's truck or crown vic, plumb that into the head of the fuel line and use a filter between it and the 5 gallon can. These pumps put out 35psi and over 5gpm free flow. 3) Add 5 gallons of KEROSENE and turn the system on. Let it run for 10 or 15 minuts. 4) Replace the filter and run a gallon or two of fresh kero through it, it will run clear. The beauty of this is that you can filter the kerosene and dump it in a home heating oil tank, no waste to dispose of and all the gunk gets captured in the can and filters. Just make sure the clamps are on good and tight when you do your return lines. Also note that some of the ford pumps are self regulating so it may turn of and on while you are pumping. and strap the pump down to a board as they have alot of torque and will attempt an escape when you power up.