5thhorsemann
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Everything posted by 5thhorsemann
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Ok Here's a new one on me, I can only get the car to take 1/2 a tank of gas, like 6 or 7 gallons. At that point the fuel is topped off at the neck. Anyone see this before? 73 240Z, standard 15.9 gal tank with all new tank plumbing to expansion tank and motor. I understand that new doesn't mean good, and I may have missed something. Any ideas before I have to dig through the hole hose thing again would be appriciated.:stupid:
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It's a 4 wheel independant suspension/ unibody car. Put it on an alignment machine and this will tell you all you need to know. If it is in alignment you are cool. if its been shimmed and adjusted to beat all, and is still out, you are in for some major work. How cheap is cheap. Can you loose on the car + tow + alingment?
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Damn TUT, everyone is beating on your muffler. Hay folks, it's a strait thru, not an offset outlet. If he rotates it it will hang down. Sharp car my man.
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Also some pics of the outside, shows if lights have been removed.
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define "wobble"
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Differential Stuck? Car Glued to Floor....
5thhorsemann replied to ConchZ's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Now I am TOTALLY speaking out of my league when it comes to this style jackpot, and admit that I have never gone this deep into a Z R/P set up. There are 2 things that are usually the culprit in play in a diff. (bad parts excluded) your ring gear is adjusted too far outboard, or your pinion is too far forward in the housing. The ring gear is the easiest to adjust (in MOST) rears, the bearings can adjust left or right independently. The pinion usually requires shimming. I am probably at least somewhat WRONG when it comes to these rears, and I hope someone chimes in to educate us on this. My point is, I'm thinking you can take it to a transmission shop and have it adjusted. And I will be watching this thread to learn my new thing for today.:bulb: -
Differential Stuck? Car Glued to Floor....
5thhorsemann replied to ConchZ's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
That is not a u-joint, You need to check your pinion gear and ring gear out. -
Why not bypass the heater core and see if the smell goes away before you go tearing into that PITA job? I have tackeled that task on my 73 and it was no fun at all. Hate to see you go through that for nothing.
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The vaccume booster is the black doughnut that the master cylinder mounts on, don't think that is your problem. Jack up front wheels and spin the tires by hand to make sure they are spinning true, could be a hub issue. Did you get new rotors, or used? If you don"t see A problem with the wheels on, pull the tires, replace the lugnuts and spin the rotors and check them for wobble. If you have rear disk brakes do the same on the rear. Are you getting feedback through the peddal, or steering wheel, or both?
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I have one from batt neg to the fire wal and a second braided strap from the block to the frame rail, there is no nasty ground wire to the valve cover.
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Help (I think), Aliens have abducted my wife!
5thhorsemann replied to motorman7's topic in Introductions and Rides
Dude, If your wife looked at that car and gave you a hug, she is a keeper! I have yet to get more than a head shake acompanied by the old "Here we go again" You are either the luckiest man alive or she is cheating on you. Either way, congrats on the aquisition! -
Not boaring, thats for a spun bearing, line honing makes for a perfect crank install, and it's cheap. Although I have not (yet) rebuilt one of these motors.
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A true Earl Scheib hot rod all the way, what a POS, who would go to all the time and trouble to put a big block in a Z and leave the stock tires and wheels on the car? More like $350.00 ROTFLMAO!!!! KRIST ON A CRACKER..........Its a 2+2 on top of everything else, Does he run this thing in the "CLOWN CAR" catagory at the shows he trailers this trash to? Maby try washing the pig first.
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Feel like I'm beating a dead horse here, but WTF, whats the worst thing that could happen. Question, why would you run the ground cable to the furthest point on the block from the starter? I looked at my 73 last night, the ground cable is like 18" long and goes directly to the block at the starter bolts. Try this, take a jumper cable and go battery ground post to the starter housing. Looking at the new pics I see you have a bracket under the lug, I still say you have a ground issue.
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your link goes to the home page not a specific part.
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What year and model is it?
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Yea, what he said.
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Drink a bear and controll yourself. I can gar-un-tee if you get impatient with this problem cause you want to drive the car in the nice weather, you will brake something. Take your time and go through the paces, you'll find the problem. Stop jumping around and put a pressure gauge in the system and check your pressure as stated above, Eliminate posabilities one by one.
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I still say after looking at his ground cable that there is no proper engin ground. I know the pic sucks, but that cable looks cut off to me.
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Flush the system BEFORE doing anything with the radiator. If there is a buttload of slop in the block the flush may clog parts of the new/ referbed core. Just my opinion.
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FWIW, While the motor is broken down I would punch her out .030 0ver and get new pistons and have the rotating assembly completely gone thur. The block would be deck ground and line honed and every bolt hole would be inspected and have the threads chased. Since you aren't going with the "worked" E31 head and a radical cam, I would stick with the round top carbs, professionally reworked, and a gucchi crank trigger ignition system. And DEfinetly a new hi volume oil pump.
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I'm not seeing a bolt, can you take a pic of said bolt and post it?
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Police stolen vehicle reports, sorry, didn't see the Denmark location.
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It's an EZ fix and the parts are on their way. Save the labor bucks and buy a power bleeder.
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They are all listed on the FBI hot sheets. It's all stolen stuff!
