5thhorsemann

240,60 or 80.....Consider yourself lucky to get any of these cars in reasonably sweet condition. Just make sure you buy it right, meaning you don't fall in love with a dream and buy a nightmare. Ive seen it time and time again, people look at a rare old car, weary from the search they buy the old whore, over spend on it, tire of the nickel dime trips to the auto parts store without their "Baby" even seeing a good weekend road trip. Next thing you know they are dumping the car for half of what they have in it, and then the buyer wants to hagle, sad.

its not reading short, its reading open. the stat coil is cooked or broken.what then?

I'm looking at this thing and I'm not seeing a rebuildable part, hook me up.

yea, you got me there

You shouldn't use a full syhthetic durring a break-in, it lubricates too well and it dosen't allow the rings to seat properly, unless of course the tolerances were specified for a synthetic oil to be used, based on the 3 ball wear test.

I don't know when it started, but the check valve is a fram pattent, which is expired, and pretty much all filter manufacturers are making check valve filters. The idea is to keep the oil from draining into the pan while sitting, and you get immeadiate oil to the bearings at startup. Nissan, GM, Ford ETC. make cars, not oil filters, nor do they make oil. These sort of components are made for the auto makers, to an engineering spec. by the lowest bidder. This is why I use Amsoil 100% synthetic with a fram Tough Guard filter. I'm not putting that many miles on the car yearly to demand bianual oil changes, so I change in the spring as winter is the time when the most condensation accumulates in the pan, synthetic oil allows the water to desolve, or be suspended in the oil as solution, and not seperate like conventional oil. Amsoil claims that you can run their product for 10K miles between changes, don't think I would go that far.

BRAVO Jim, great info.

the strut fits in the tube that the spring perch is welded to. tipco and others make struts with perches attached.

Just finished the swap, took longer to jack the car up than to replace the sender. How do you repair the sender/ get replacement reostat?

can you feel the binding at the peddal or does it feel smooth?

A ten minut job! had to go for a test drive after, fill the tank, a home-run

lets not forget from wence we came, a stall then high rpm. I'm gonna stick with the links

Drained the tank completly when I replaced all the vent plumbing, Flusned the tank using kerosine mixed with heating oil tank cleaner. Got almost nothing out of it. I think I'll be okay with the tank rite where it's at. Thanks guys!

Remember there are 2 sets of CV needles and both are unlikley to fail at the same time, one fails and you get a funky off throttle RPM ramp.

The butterfly may be sticking in the throat, the needles are vaccume acuated, the damper likewise shows problems under vaccume, not a related issue. Back to the butterfly, this is one of the bigger problems I was refering to. I didnt realize you already did the clean and lube process, But the binding may still be in the linkage. Pull the Air filter and anything else that obstructs clear view of the linkage and give it a complete visual inspection, then pull off the returne springs and actuate the linkage by hand, GENTLEY. You may find that without spring pressure the off throtle bind goes away. If you can't find the trouble outside the carbs in the linkages, butterflies are all that remain. The needles jets piston and dampers sound to be okay if you get an even ramp up to high RPM.

You can't adjust the ratio between pedal and butterflies through the linkage, there is however adjustment is many of the linkage components to adjust out binding and component interferience issues. I would shoot for a good clean and lube before you talk yourself into biger troubles, it's a quick job if you don't find things needing replacement.

Grime I'm not worried about, the first thing I did when I got the car was to pressure wash the bottom as to assess the rust. It was Z-BART-TED (?) way back when, so I blasted all that stuff off, she is clean and pristeen underneath. I have the lockring tool, so that isn't an issue. New lock ring and o-ring....CHECK. The rear electric fuek pump is not necessary any more and has since been removed, so theres no issue there. It is hard to tell if there is enough "head room" in the tank to swing the sender in and out while clearing the suspension and floor pan. I managed to replace all the vapor/ vent lines without droping the tank, that was a pain in the a$$ and I'm not about to pull them back off on the underside. That said, droping the tank, even slightly, means the interrior panels and the expansion tank might need to be opened back up (much like the can of worms that they are) I'm just hoping that I can pull this off like the 30 min. job that it is, instead of pulling the tank and spending half a day on my back.

Just got the new fuel sending unit for my 240Z. Looks kind of long. Do you need to drop the tank to get this rascal in or can it be finagled into the tank while it is in place?

Don't use any liquid or grease to lube the mast, use dry graphite powder lube, it will build up on the stage contacts for lubrication, it conducts signal better and won't trap dust or dirt . Actuate the mast up and down a dosen times then wipe off the excess, be sure to clean and lube the guts as percribed above and you are done.

I remember having one of those in the shed, was trying to forget those "good old days" I'll need to drink a few beers to get sleep tonight. Doing the work wasn't so bad, trying to find all the little trinkits to put it back together was a bitch. Have fun with that.

Dirty linkaces that are binding. My car did the same thing, disassemble clean lube and reassemble. First, take the peddal apart from the motor portion to see which end is sticking.

Hay Geezer, do you really care what the rest of the world thinks? Next time you scooch your old butt into your S, adjust the mirror so you can see yourself, that big arse smile on your face is all the recognition the designers ever needed. Had mine out last night, and the smile is still on my face.

Wow, could it be a drag issue? Does the motor labor when this happens? If it were a clutch or converter issue you would definetly see high R's and feel the power go away. Check the brakes perhaps?

Fast woman has created a monster here. The canoe was designed after a smart fellow saw a leaf floating in a stream (or not). We have gone into a mind readers realm.

If you have a welder, try this. take a nut and center it on the broken stud, then weld them together by filling the hole in the nut with the weld pool. Hit that sucker with an impact while it's still hot. If it breakes again, it will be above the deck and you will get a second shot at it when the head is finally removed. On the bright side, it will incinerate the carbon. If you don't have a welder, try using a B tank with a turbo tip on the studs you can reach. This wont burn the carbon off, but it will break it up some.