5thhorsemann

pm sent, i"m in for one!

I think he forgot the decimal point ($70.00)

Big words spoken from the So Cal Desert, two years ago we had two back to back 24"+ snow storms, I couldn't even see my Z for 3 weeks. You should at least have access to a 4WD if you live in the northern part of the country. BTW, the dog is on top of the car in that pic.

Removed mine with no issues. BTW, the lubricants belong on the inside of the jackpot, time for new seals while you're in there.

Gotcha, these are old cars afterall, although I am impressed with how few fasteners I have broken working on mine.

It looks right for my 240 (original seats) with the back in the first lock position, I think he has the back moved "upright" and a chalk under the back mounts to keep it standing for the pic.

I think I paid ~$4.00 for a rebuild kit like 2 years ago. I bought three, left side installed, two spares on the shelf.

Looks realy nice, I need a drivers seat cover, might have to do a set of these, thanks!

sorry, see post 25

Agreed, but grannyknot hasn't come back, I think we may have added to his dilemma. Unfortunately there is no hard and fast answer to his question, these are all good intakes, and all will perform well on his new motor. I guess the summary reply is, it all depends on his expertise, his willingness to study the chosen design and his ability to shell out the bucks necessary to make it happen.

I've looked into these a little bit, personally, I would rather have C.O.'s blocks and use the stock tubing in the stock position.

I was having a conversation last night with an MG owner friend of mine who is running a set of Mikunis on his car, and long story short, he is scared to death about the 15% ethanol mandate coming down the pike, He thinks that it will make the car unstreetable, i.e. race fuel only.

Same car, same motor. I thought that that wine was normal when I got the car. When I did the alternator upgrade to the 60 amp internally regulated unit, the wine was gone. If you do the upgrade when replacing the alt (reccomended), I would do the headlight relay upgrade at the same time to save your fuse box, the updated alt will cook it.

If you are going to drive the car on the street, I would stick with the side draft options. I know that the Weber guys are going to pitch a bitch, but when was looking to rid myself of the flat tops I did a bunch of searching and based my decision this way. Finding #1, My motors specs, stock 240, would be a cool looking waste of $1500 to $2000 bucks. Finding #2, There were like 3 to 1 people out there with Webers looking for technical advice VS the SU owners. Finding #3, There are like 10 to 1 people out there running SU's on street cars over webers, and that means SU parts and advice were plentiful and cheap. I went with the round tops, and aside from a vapor lock issue that I recently solved, I have had zero serious issues that I couldn't solve on my own. In my OPINION, the $1000 I saved over the Mikuni's gave much more bang for the buck when looking at the overall performance of the car. But I would still love to have a set on my Lil Girl....................

Waste of a good Z

I live in Maryland and own 3 small business', I paid over 53% in income taxes alone, add in the taxes on purchases and property and that would reach into the 70 to 75% range. I envy you siteunseen, and would like to someday be able to keep some of my earnings for myself.

You don't cut on the bell housing to make way for a header..........EVER!

Car is on the ground, springs are loaded.

Blue, my thinking at the time of purchase was the ability to change the springs out cheaply from Pegasus and other race parts suppliers, if I didn't like the springs in the kit. Fortunately, I'm happy with the spring that came with the kit. The 5KG front / 6 KG rear rates sounded a bit harsh, not having ANY other Z owners locally to compare ride firmness with it was a roll of the dice, luckily I won. If I wanted to put the car on the track and needed a firmer spring rate, the change would be quick and cheap on the springs. I also think the KYB's are a good match for the springs in the kit, or an even stiffer spring. I would not recommend these for significant lowering of the car, that would require sectioning of the strut, but you could make this kit work if you know what you are doing and save a bunch of cash over the GC's.

I can't speak to the drop springs, never to my knowledge have I driven on them. But these handel nice. front pic rear pic They are very easy to adjust and the fitment is excellent, nice tight tolerances and they wcn be removed in favor of stock springs if you so choose.

I ordered these some time ago off of ebay, and just got them on the car with new KYB struts 2 weeks ago. (The fronts were installed months ago and I just finished the rears.) I really like them, they are stiff, but not kidney killers by any stretch. There is almost no body roll any more and the handeling improvements were dramatic. Installation was a breeze, no sectioning required, and there is no need to remove the lower spring perch unless you have tire interface issues. I wouldn't recomend them if you are looking to lower the car more than an inch or so, but if you want to have the ability to tweek your ride height slightly, this is a high quality reasonably priced option. I have put a couple hundred miles on the car since the install and am very happy with the overall outcome VS. money spent.

Is that a Chia pet or a baby Muppit?

The pump bracket has a rubber isolator built in, I dont see how to further isolate the noise and still have a secure mount, I just have to learn to live with it. Is that a FG hood or just a 3" scoop mounted to the stock hood? I like it, and just ordered a FG cowl scoop for mine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/150852819409?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Update, looks like this did the trick, it's been in the high 90's for the past two days and no sign of the problem. I do still have to get used to the buzz of the new pump, it's loud compared to the old thumper.

You pulled the plugs, I presume to get the most RPM out of the starter, and you can't hear any noise from the timing chain, correct? Oil should be pumping out of the oil spray bar at all 12 lobes, is it? It dosn't sound like any valve train noise I have ever come across, sounds like the chain is draging on the tensioner or the guides. Can you see any marks or wear on the outter edge of the chain? Are there any marks on the inside of the valve cover, maby worth a look? Could it be the starter gear isn't disengaging? Check the rotor in the cap to make sure it isn't slapping on the posts, and check that the timing tab isn't hitting the crank pully. You have eliminated the water pump, alternator, clutch fan and the belt. I'm reaching a bit, but I listened to your video a dozen and can't think of too many culprits that would produce that noise.