Moonshine

HELP - MY PROBLEM/QUESTIONS??? - my heater was eliminated by the previous owner who looped the heater hose from the water pump to the block -and bypassed the heater coil all together - in researching further w/ helpful steps from this sites threads I did a total teardown and diagnosed a few problems under the dash - it appeared that the curvy heater hose was replaced by a straight one that made a kink in the hose dis-allowing the anti-freeze to flow freely creating a leaky weak spot around the valve - besides 2 clamps not being placed correctly - so all in all the previous owner got lazy and just eliminated the heater - i had the heater coil re-tinned (no leaks) - checked all the vacuum tubes - replaced all the 5/8 heater hoses w/ new - in putting everything back together i snapped the copper hosing off the stem (photo attached) - i took the stem out and carefully re-bored w/ drill bit QUESTIONS - 1) - the stem where the copper hosing is attached - it seems to have no relavancy as a valve and appeared to be just welded to the top of the stem - can i just re-weld to existing hole w/o worrying if the hollow copper tube is flowing correctly ? what does this stem/hollow tube do?? 2) In reading a few threads i found that a few have eliminated the heater valve w/ another one from other vehicles and/or just replaced w/ a gate valve in the engine compartment - & when u want heat u just turn on the valve - but i see no diagrams & it seems as if im back to square one w/ no flow to the heater coil - i am not the one to "jerry rig" but to stick to the OEM parts - but do want heat anyway possible Any input/photos/diagrams would be appreciative

Appears as if we are working in the same area HELP - MY PROBLEM/QUESTIONS??? - my heater was eliminated by the previous owner who looped the heater hose from the water pump to the block -and bypassed the heater coil all together - in researching further w/ helpful steps from this sites threads I did a total teardown and diagnosed a few problems under the dash - it appeared that the curvy heater hose was replaced by a straight one that made a kink in the hose dis-allowing the anti-freeze to flow freely creating a leaky weak spot around the valve - besides 2 clamps not being placed correctly - so all in all the previous owner got lazy and just eliminated the heater - i had the heater coil re-tinned (no leaks) - checked all the vacuum tubes - replaced all the 5/8 heater hoses w/ new - in putting everything back together i snapped the copper hosing off the stem (photo attached) - i took the stem out and carefully re-bored w/ drill bit QUESTIONS - 1) - the stem where the copper hosing is attached - it seems to have no relavancy as a valve and appeared to be just welded to the top of the stem - can i just re-weld to existing hole w/o worrying if the hollow copper tube is flowing correctly ? what does this stem/hollow tube do?? 2) In reading a few threads i found that a few have eliminated the heater valve w/ another one from other vehicles and/or just replaced w/ a gate valve in the engine compartment - & when u want heat u just turn on the valve - but i see no diagrams & it seems as if im back to square one w/ no flow to the heater coil - i am not the one to "jerry rig" but to stick to the OEM parts - but do want heat anyway possible Any input/photos/diagrams would be appreciative

Appears as if we are working in the same area - hopefully photo attached will help - you can also google image search (280z heater valve) - from your photo it appears as if they eliminated the heater valve all together and is a constant flow - does it feel as if your heat is always on??? if you are going back to original - please let me stress that the small hollow copper tubing is fragile and can easily snap off from the sensor stem if you are not careful hence my problem - it is supported by a metal clamp housing that slides threw a hole on top of where the heater valve/water **** bracket - below that stem where the copper hosing connects to - there is another small stem that slides on the bottom that is held by a set screw - not fun putting back together - that metal clamp has two small tabs that need to be turned up to hold into place - if those parts are missing i would recommend another from a junkyard or ebay - make sure you replace the seals in the valve before re-assembling - good luck HELP - MY PROBLEM/QUESTIONS??? - my heater was eliminated by the previous owner who looped the heater hose from the water pump to the block -and bypassed the heater coil all together - in researching further w/ helpful steps from this sites threads I did a total teardown and diagnosed a few problems under the dash - it appeared that the curvy heater hose was replaced by a straight one that made a kink in the hose dis-allowing the anti-freeze to flow freely creating a leaky weak spot around the valve - besides 2 clamps not being placed correctly - so all in all the previous owner got lazy and just eliminated the heater - i had the heater coil re-tinned (no leaks) - checked all the vacuum tubes - replaced all the 5/8 heater hoses w/ new - in putting everything back together i snapped the copper hosing off the stem (photo attached) - i took the stem out and carefully re-bored w/ drill bit QUESTIONS - 1) - the stem where the copper hosing is attached - it seems to have no relavancy as a valve and appeared to be just welded to the top of the stem - can i just re-weld to existing hole w/o worrying if the hollow copper tube is flowing correctly ? what does this stem/hollow tube do?? 2) In reading a few threads i found that a few have eliminated the heater valve w/ another one from other vehicles and/or just replaced w/ a gate valve in the engine compartment - & when u want heat u just turn on the valve - but i see no diagrams & it seems as if im back to square one w/ no flow to the heater coil - i am not the one to "jerry rig" but to stick to the OEM parts - but do want heat anyway possible Any input would be appreciative

8 second Z - took these last year at a local track here in TN - Thunder Valley - Bristol Motor Speedway - streetfightz - steroids isn't even the word

In calling a few junkyards in a 20 mile radius - i found a few Z's - there are some silly misc parts i need for the build - dash bracket, door handles, seat belt covers, emissions canister/bracket, switches.... photos above is a yard a few miles from me - he had 3 Z's - found everything i needed & w/in budget - yet a bit depressing to see these neglected gems in a sea of rust/metal

Interior tear down - as previous noted - problem with the heating - during diagnostic - few weak clamps seemed to be the problem - many visible neon green anti-freeze stains on the stems on the heater control valve & heater core inlet/outlet - one unstock hose was forcibly pinched which perhaps caused a weak spot - i would say it is imperative to have the correct hoses in place - along w/ reputable - stainless steel clamps - and most definetely replacing clamp that can be tightened with a socket - phillips heads on originals were corroded - not fun removing and not an easy spot to work in - thorough cleaning of all units - heater coil refurbishing is worth the extra bucks in the long run - one link i found to be very helpful to remove/replace heater coil - http://www.maplesoft.net/datsun/repairandupgrade/heatercore/index.htm

FYI - nice turn key Z for sale - http://www.usedcarsplus.com/classic-cars/03-use/datsun/150542993370.html

removed many interior components today -after inspecting heater core - seems as if the green stained neon leakage is stemming from the heater hose flanges/heater valve - untightened laziness?? came too far not to have the heater core removed/refurbished - in researching - heater valve usually is the first to go - o-ring inside and seal outside is notrious for fouling - lack of flushing - anti-freeze/water ratio - unbalanced - update/photos to follow - tomorrows project :stupid:

i see what u saw - for some reason thats green overspray - ive been knuckling white oversparay as well everywhere - perhaps was in garage with other more important projects bein sprayed - i reassure you that this puppy was originally yellow - its in every nook & cranny - personally i hate yellow - cant wait to re-face w/ new paint - todays 8 hr project was strictly interior - i spent an hour polishing the ash tray - ol lady brought me a few hot choclates during the days event - she is right - ive neglected her now that i have this Z - addicting hobby

when all is said and done this is the appearnce i wanna emulate - (flat black)

Engine Tag reads = L28 100516 - but could not find matching tag on front right strut housing

good stuff !! thnx for diagram/pic - just found this one on e-bay for $20 - but from a 79 280zx - looks the same - universal?

good stuff !! thnx for diagram/pic - just found this one on e-bay for $20 - but from a 79 280zx - looks the same - universal?

Headed out to the garage - dash removal/replacement is next - is there a way to check leakage in heater core - pressure test? - plug up one side - fill w/ water - air nozzle other end?

Late November I joined this resourceful site after rescuing a 1976 Z that was sitn in a barn for almost 2 years - holidays are over and the new year resolution is to have this z on the road in upcoming months - started the standard clean-up/diagnostics - i have been educating/lerking on the forums - very informative!! i know i can sleuth thru the forums and find most answers but i know all z's are unique - hopefully photos will answer a few questions 1. Heater hose flange on firewall - intake/return - disconnected - only reason i would think this was done is that there is a problem underneath dash - they looped the intake hose from the pump back to the block - any other reason why this benefits or hurts performance ? 2. Many breather/coolant hoses are disconnected plugged - im hoping most are elimination of emissions 3. I was told that this engine is from a later year other than the original 76 (?) where do i find engine tag (?) any indication from photos? 4. Empty brackets - Engine compartment - front right passenger side (photo below) & blank bracket near air intake - front left (below AFM) 5. Under passenger seat near brake relay - mysterious harness?? (photo below) / Passenger side - under dash - another mysterious empty harness? Any info would be a great help - safe - Happy Z riding in 2011 !!

i did indeed find 2 others that struck interest w/in 100 mile radius but chose the 2 seater early year z - good luck! 1983 280zx 6cyl 5spd, fuel injected - 828.524.4179 - Franklin, NC - $1000 1982 280zx. Blue with grey leather interior. T-tops , 5 speed manual transmission. Runs and drives. 828.719.7479 - Boone, NC - $1700

Good stuff !! I'm understanding the fickle part - I'm the only man in the house, my first car was a 77 mg midget - needed the tuning attention once a week w/ an occasional hood popping in the parking lot so im expecting the same - looking forward to smashing the bottle on this puppy w/ a little forum help - gonna go over w/ a fine comb b4 I fire her up

1975 280z - purchased 11.27.10 for $800