Robin260z

could ypu pass me a link or so? I am also searching for them, i broked mine to when installing them back after sandblasting my bmc

well an update so far. I replaced the wheel bearing and tie rod at the right side of the car. Left side will be done tomorrow. I sandblasted my second set off calipers, painted it and placed new seals into it. The cilinder was perfect so one caliper is ready to be installed yet. he second caliper is waiting for a set of new seals. I forgot to order two sets of new seals. My 280zx bmc is also sandblasted and painted aluminium color Cleaned the reservoirs too. But when building everyting back the seals inside cracked. So i am searching for new ones but they are hard to find. So the only thing to do is -replace the bearings en tie rod left -install the new seals in the calipers whey ave arrived and then swap them. -welt my sway bar mounting at the right side -Repair my 280zx bmc with new seals and swap it with the original bmc. I hope my brake problem will be over then Iff someone knews a good site to order some new 280zx brake master cilinder repair kit. Please let me know. i'll update you guys

well thanks for the great advices. What i think i am gonna do: -Replace the wheel bearings at both front wheels ( already got new ones whith seals -The ball joints are replaced already -Replace the tie rod ends (already got them ) -Repair my sway bar mount ( it got rusted away so i have to weld it ) -Rebuilt a second set of calipers with good cilinders inside and new seals ) -Check the steering installation -check my hubs and/or wheels for something strange.

The rotors are new. I only feel it when i am braking not during normal ride. I meant to say that i feels like my rotors are bent when i brake. But that is not the problem because i installed new rotors. when driving normally i dont feel anything wrong more that normal. so i only feel it when i am braking. when i brake the steering wheel vibrates en i also feel a small vibration in the brake pedal. I could use the original brake master cilinder to solve the problem but i also want to upgrade the brake master so why not changing them immediatly. so a good advice is to jack up the car and turn the hub around without a wheel on it. I that has''nt affect i have to renew the lugnuts or let my tires installed again? p.s Sorry my technical english is not that good for now.

well ok that size stands for the cilinder size? So i have to get a kit especially for a 280zx brake master cilinder

i forgot to tell that It is a 1975 260z 2+2

hi guys, i have a problem with my brakes. They are shocking when i brake. I feels like your rotor is bended. not straight. So i put some new rotors on with new brakepads. I've also mounted new brake lines to the hoses at the front. After this the problem is stil there. then i opened up my calipers and found out that the cilinders inside were rusted. So i bought some second hand calipers with perfect cilinders inside. Also bought a sealkit for the calipers but i havent had time to repair the calipers. could this be the solution? Otherwise where do i have to look then? I also bought a new brake master cilinder from a 280zx. I am going to clean up that one and install it. I have also read about a vacuum booster? Where do i find this and what does is. Could this also be the problem? A lot off questions but i hope someone could give me some advice. thank you

Hi guys, Yesterday i bought a second hand 280zx brake master cilinder. I wantto completely renew the brake master cilinder with gaskets etc. I am able to buy a kit for a 240/260/280z brake master from someone but i want to know if i can use this kit to renew the 280zx brake master. thx

to continue on this question. will a 280z window also fit a 260z 2+2? Or are they all the same except the rear windows becaus of the 2+2 model?

Hi guys my tacho isn't working either. I;ve read a lot of posts trying to figure out what the problem is. I;ve already read that i have a 4 wire tacho that isn;t original because a 260z normally has a 3 wire. But all the wiring is original so thats also weird. tha tacho gets good ground and 12 volt. The ignition signal is ok because when i disconnect the connector the car wont start because it is a circuit that has to be closed. So could someone give me the right electrical scheme for a 4 wire tacho or tell me how i can repair/ rebuild my tacho. Sometimes it starts to work for a few minutes but it can also dont work for a few weeks. Could it also be the resistor? where can i find this in a 75 260z 2+2 ? thx guys

problem solved. It was the turn signal switch. the contact points in te swich were heavily corrodised. So i sanded them up and it works fine now. the job took me about 15 minutes to completely remove the turn signal, repair it, en re-install it. thanks for the help guys!! greetings from holland robin

thanks for the advices and help. My hazard flasher works ok. The hazard flasher has nothin to do with turn signal circuit. The hazard switch does has to do with the turn signal circuit. When the hazard switch is turned off there's are relay inside that is been made to supply the turn signal a 12 volt +. when the hazard switch is turned on the, relay is disconnected. so the + provided to the turn signal is open and wont work. thats why you cant give an turn signal when having the hazard lights on. Today i checked a lot of things with a multimeter. After a lot of measuring i concluded that the hazard switch is working ok and the when measuring the connector at the steering collum this one works fin too. So i concluded that i had to be the wire between the connector at the steering collum and the connector at the big connector box. Then i stopped searching because i had to eat an wanted to go further next weekend. But before i stopped i decided to do one experiment. The connector at the steering collum has 3 wires. the left one is for the left lights. the middle one is for the right lights and th right wire is the providing + wire. I connected the middel wire with the right at suddenly the turn signal began to flash fine. When i turned the signal to left and connect the left wire with the right wire the right signal also began to work. So conclusion; the wiring is ok. The problem is in the turn signal switch. I gues that when i gave signal to right with the switch it is making a short loose with earth. When i measured it, it works well but the contact is not that big enough to let the lights burn So my plan is to rebuild the turn signal switch as told a few answers above. I hope this is the probem. when i rebuild it i would post the results. thanks al for thinking with. greetings robin

i did have a look actually but didnt focus on the fact that it could have worked its way out. thanx for the tip i will have a look tomorrow. Maybe its just that small thing.

hi guys i'v got a problem with my reverse lights. When i change gear into reverse the lights will go burn. But when i loose the gearknob the lights go out. So i concluded that there is space between the switch and the position of the reverse gear. Can i adjust this of do i have to buy a new switch? If so were can i buy a reverse switch? thx for the help

hello guys. I bought a new electronic flasher unit en the problem is still there. The strange thing is that all the lights blink when i turn the hazard switch on. when i gave signal to left all the lights work. But when i give signal to right then wont work. When i gave signal to right i can hear the flasher click ones en then anymore. sometimes is clicks very slow for a few times and then it stops. what i have checked already is the turn signal switch. this is working ok. I measured the resistance between the connector at the switch and the first connector in the big connectorblock at the passenger side. The result was that when is measure the left wire at the switch and the left wire at the connector there was 0 resistance. The same for the right wires. When i measure the left wire at the switch and the right at the connector there was also 0 resistance. Otherwise it is the same. I've already checked both the electrical drawings of the hazard system and the turn signal system but i cant find the problem. maybe someone else has a suggestion?

hi guys i own a '75 260 2+2 In the front i have 4 watt led turn signals. On the fenders the original 4 watt lights and in the back the original 21 watt. When using the emergancy lights or called hazard in english? the lights work fine whith the right rhytm. Since i bought the car it worked complete but it blinked slow. i'd checked all the watts of the bulbs but they were good. Now since 1 or 2 weeks the right side isn't working. when i give signal to left all the lights at the left side burn but not in the right rhytm. sometimes fast then slow then normal and then fast again. At the right side it isn't working at all when giving turn signal. Today i bought a new flasher relay, 12 volt/ 21wattx2 + 5 watt with 2 connectors and plugged it in. This gave a strange result. when giving the turn signal left the bulbs burn constantly. they are not blinking. At right noting happens. Before switching the old for a new relay, the original one clicked once when giving signal to left, then it stopped and noting burns. After changing the flasher relay for a new one and testing it, i replaced the old one back, and now i dont even hear a click also when giving signal to right. I checked the fuses and they are ok. My guess is when the lamps are burning fine when using the hazard switch there couldn't be anyting wrong with the wiring. Could there be an issue with the new flasher relay, that it is not the right one ( it was designed for ford but is universal )? What could happen the problem before chaning the new relay ? maybe you guys could give me some ideas to look for. thanx and greetings from holland. robin

hi guys, sorry i havent let you guys told how it went but the car is runnign much better now. I;ve installed the su carbs en let them synchronised and adjust the mixture/ idle speed. now the cars starts all the time instead of when hot no more. But there al still a few minor problems. The car starts very fast when turning on the key but when hit the gas it isnt reving. but when one the rigt temperature the car runs ok. A classic car mechanic told me that it was wise to change the thermostat because the heater inside isn't getting hot also. This will help the car getting earlier on working temp i too i guess? So will a new thermostat help the firs problem to let the heater getting warmer earlier and so the engine to? second question is about the ignition i guess. When the car is at working temp. ( 90 degree celcius ) and i'm waiting in first gear for a traffic light the car idles ok, but when hitting the gas and let the clutch come up the car comes in a kind of dip and it lookes like the car isnt getting fuel or isnt getting a spark. Sometimes when this happens ther is also en small explosion out of the carbs. I am sure the carbs are adjust good. So i think the ignition is failing. So i am considering to order a pertronix ignition kit with new spark plug wires. Will this fit onto a 1975 260z and will this be the answer to the second problem. Many thanx for your help guys, In holland there aren't much datsun clubs and so less information. I hope it is no problem that i continue in this topic. greetings from holland!! robin

i made a picture of the carb set that i got extra when buying the Z here it is. I noticed that its different then the flat tops which are installed now. are this su carbs?

. yes en complet st of manifold including the carbs on it. i will have a look at it tomorrow en make a pic.

it can be possible. do these lines go underneath the drivers seat under the carpet? I got some 240z carbs. will those fit or are these the same ?

well ok the temp meter isn't going higher then 60 degrees celsius so that can be the hose problem. Another point to look for. when i bought the car the seller gave me an extra set of carbs which came from a 240z he said. Will those fitt my 260 and is it better to use them instead of the original carbs?

when je look to the left you will see a cutted off hose. Can this be the problem? Then tape on the right carburetor is there becaus the cap above the needle is broken. The seller told to me that the needle was only to let the car drive smooth when opening the throttle. her you see it in close up. what i figured out is when i try to start the car again when in have run a while i have to put the gaspedal to the floor and the choke fully open. After a while the engine starts running again and then idle fine but when hitting the gas the exhaust is sputtering a bit. i hope this will help you guys ? thx again

thx for the fast response. Well today it is freezing but the problem was there also when the weather was good/ high temps. Where can i fine the return line. I found out that there is a hose cut off but don;t know what it is for. I made some pictures that i am loading up right now. The car also made noise like i fires things of the exhaust. So there's also something with the timing/ ignition. Would changing the contact pointes and adjust make something?

Hi guys, i'm robin from holland and bought a 260z 2 days ago. (i will introduce me in a short time on the site ) The Z has some minor issues that have to be solve. things like the rev meter doesnt work and lights etc. But there is a big problem, i gues, with the carburetor. The car starts immediately even when it is very cold ( now its freezing here ) and then with some choking the engine comes alive. I know that the carburators arent'n being running that good, but i can drive the car normal with sometimes that the carbs wont get some gasolin for a second. But said before, the carbs need some adjustment. When i drive around for a while en then stop en turn the car off it wont start anymore. When i wait an half an hour of more the car will start again. Does somebody had this before or knows what it can be. I hope someone can help me. thx Ps. i know i had to search first but it is a big issue at the moment and want it to be solved as quick as possible. Also i didnt know the key words to search for this problem.

sorry something went wrong. ( new at this forum )