Co0kieduster

Like the title says.... I'm moving there at the end of January, Going to be in northern Charlotte (Huntersville), towing my car out tonight. Looking to make some new friends that have a love for Z's and cars in general. P.S. I'm young 28, tall dark and handsome, with blue eyes and ripped muscles... P.S.S. to avoid any confusion im also straight but taken

Called Isky, Waiting for a call back, thanks for the quick responses!

Just called delta and they wont go any higher than 480 lift at 280 overall duration. I was hoping for at least .500 lift and .300 overall duration. But don't know who to call. Anyone know a cam grinder that will do this?

Well, I've found an internally oiled core, Now I just need to decide on a good grind and get her up and running.

I already cleaned it. Had to poke a needle in the hole, just looked like gunk, black and grainy, sprayed the bar out with some carb cleaner. now all the holes seem fine. Hard to say where the gunk came from. I'm thinking dirt? And a big enough grain of it to stick in the hole. Wonder if it was still in the oiler bar after my initial cleaning and was broken up over time by the fresh supply of oil pressure. I ran two full cans of carb cleaner through it when I initially cleaned it, but there's no real way to get to stuff thats really stuck when you can't scrape it. I'm guessing whoever sold it to me had it sitting around for a loooong time, maybe his kid played with it in the sand box. gotta love ebay :/ would cleaning the engine out with seafoam or a similar product be helpful?

I've had the oil pan off and the front cover. All was cleaned when I reasembled. Tempted to take the head off just for piece of mind. Is it possible that the grease I put in the oil pump to get it to prime was thick enough clog the oiler bar? I just don't know if I can trust the oiler bar now....well, either way, I'll probably be pulling the cover off everytime I drive for months till i'm absolutely certain it's getting oiled.

I say limited budget because, until summer when I start working my second job, as I'm a teacher, I can only buy bits and pieces. I just want to plan ahead. I've already got a list of things I want. I will be doing all of the assembly myself with help from an experenced mechanic friend who is only vaguely familiar with the Z's It will probably take me a few years to get where I want, maybe more, but this is my project that I spend all my free time on and enjoy very much. I might be diving around in an unfinished underpowered, awesome looking z for awhile but eventually i'll get there. I'm just trying to decide if its more cost effective to buy the $20 core camshaft get it reground($100), get springs($100), lash pads($100) and retainers($75)plus shipping....all assuming my head is ok. or spend $450 on a head with a schneider that comes with everything and a refreshed e88 head. leaning towards the latter being a better deal The final price is soo close I don't know how to decide!

Ok, Maybe that was a dumb question. I'm still a newb in the engine building world. I'm going to assume its internally oiled and grindable. thought maybe having the holes on the lobes would cause issues with grinding. Anyway, I would like some advice or opinions, I've been planning on doing an NA rebuild to get close to 200 whp. I don't have much of a budget so I am trying to piece it together slowly and still drive it. Right now there is an e88 head with a 300f schneider cam available....its competition grade and I'm really tempted to buy it instead of getting a core and sending it for a regrind. Good idea? Bad idea?

There's a used F cam on ebay fo sale. Is that an internally oiled cam? And, just to be sure, it would be grindable right?

No, this time it was the #1 intake. last time was the #6 intake and exhaust, due to the oiler bar being broken. I did put on another oiler bar that I cleaned for hours with carb cleaner and pb blaster. All the holes were spraying when I was done. However I just checked it and sur enough the hole fo that lobe was plugged. So lack of oil I guess. I thought It sounded a little tappety, but not much more than normal. I was under the impession that I could reset the lash and check everything within 1000 miles and not have to worry about it being destroyed already :/ I think i'd like to get an internally oiled cam, this oiler bar seems completely unreliable.

The only pieces that look like they got hot were the rocker and that one lobe. How could a valve just suddenly stick open? is that even possible? Thats the only way I can see the jagged wipe pattern on the rocker and the lobe happening. Anyone have a decent head they want to get rid of?

Put a fresh reground cam in a few months ago due to a wiped lobe. Got fresh lash pads, resurfaced rockers, fresh oiler bar (that I cleaned), new oil with zinc to break it in. Checked it after 100 miles and was fine, check it again today after 700 miles and the intake lobe on #1 cylinder is wiped bad. :mad: It almost looks like the lobe was hitting the the rocker pad in different places instead of wiping across it. The intake was set at .08 when i installed and its now a .14 .... i don't know if thats enough to cause the strange wipe pattern. Im thinking the valve was stuck open. This could also explain the trouble i had getting home from charlotte. and of course 200 miles babying the car home with a stuck open valve sounds like it would ruin things pretty quick. I was thinking it was my carbs, seemed like it was flooding due to a float bowl problem. Pics below. What are my options? Regrind the cam again? Would I have to pull the head off to find out if my valve is stinking or bent?

problem is I don't don't have the SUs. I bought the car with DGVs on it. I suppose I could get the $40 rebuild kit and try to get them working since they are leaking everywhere and one is definitely not functioning properly. I don't see much info out there for help however, if I run into problems. If I had SUs, then I agree completely, keep the SUs for now get triples later.

Thanks for the sound advise. I understand that 200 is just a number and I maybe should have said in my original post that I want at least 200. Just because i know that if I get close i wont know how to stop till I'm there or past it I wish I had more than a measly NC state teacher salary to work with....maybe someday when I quit and my dream business dyno/tuning shop in my back yard becomes a reality and makes me $$$$ i'll build it all at once. Until then, I believe i have a plan. Please feel free to bash it/correct it/have an opinion about it. 1st get triples.... 45mm drive around with cool looking sounding carbs 2nd pull head send to shop for port and polish, flow bench work...etc drive around with alot more power hopefully 3rd....get l28 block with flat top and mate with worked head and triples for 10:1 CR Drive around with huge smile yay! I've attached the Dyno sheet, guess it was 111 torque. Also a pic of the awesome driveway GF drives the s2k. Yes she makes more money than me and has no student loans :/ on a side note my z kept up with two ricers that were on the dyno that day as they both lost hp with pointless mods im guessing.

Ok, I'm going to revive this thread with an update. I just had the chance last weekend to put my car on the Dyno for free . My brother graduated top of his class and as a reward was aloud a free dyno run with three other top performing students. Anyway, I ran 108 max torque and 97 max hp. About what I expected. We didn't rev past 5500 rpms because the instructor was afraid my cheap tires would blow up. He said it might clime a little higher but not much. On the way home from Charlotte one of my carbs took a dump. I was told that a "valve" in the float bowl might be sticking causing it to flood those three cylinders. I have no interest in reviving the webers and am now saving my pennies for a set of triples! Ill be sure to post the print out as soon as I get home from work.