Co0kieduster

Like the title says.... I'm moving there at the end of January, Going to be in northern Charlotte (Huntersville), towing my car out tonight. Looking to make some new friends that have a love for Z's and cars in general. P.S. I'm young 28, tall dark and handsome, with blue eyes and ripped muscles... P.S.S. to avoid any confusion im also straight but taken

Called Isky, Waiting for a call back, thanks for the quick responses!

Just called delta and they wont go any higher than 480 lift at 280 overall duration. I was hoping for at least .500 lift and .300 overall duration. But don't know who to call. Anyone know a cam grinder that will do this?

Well, I've found an internally oiled core, Now I just need to decide on a good grind and get her up and running.

I already cleaned it. Had to poke a needle in the hole, just looked like gunk, black and grainy, sprayed the bar out with some carb cleaner. now all the holes seem fine. Hard to say where the gunk came from. I'm thinking dirt? And a big enough grain of it to stick in the hole. Wonder if it was still in the oiler bar after my initial cleaning and was broken up over time by the fresh supply of oil pressure. I ran two full cans of carb cleaner through it when I initially cleaned it, but there's no real way to get to stuff thats really stuck when you can't scrape it. I'm guessing whoever sold it to me had it sitting around for a loooong time, maybe his kid played with it in the sand box. gotta love ebay :/ would cleaning the engine out with seafoam or a similar product be helpful?

I've had the oil pan off and the front cover. All was cleaned when I reasembled. Tempted to take the head off just for piece of mind. Is it possible that the grease I put in the oil pump to get it to prime was thick enough clog the oiler bar? I just don't know if I can trust the oiler bar now....well, either way, I'll probably be pulling the cover off everytime I drive for months till i'm absolutely certain it's getting oiled.

I say limited budget because, until summer when I start working my second job, as I'm a teacher, I can only buy bits and pieces. I just want to plan ahead. I've already got a list of things I want. I will be doing all of the assembly myself with help from an experenced mechanic friend who is only vaguely familiar with the Z's It will probably take me a few years to get where I want, maybe more, but this is my project that I spend all my free time on and enjoy very much. I might be diving around in an unfinished underpowered, awesome looking z for awhile but eventually i'll get there. I'm just trying to decide if its more cost effective to buy the $20 core camshaft get it reground($100), get springs($100), lash pads($100) and retainers($75)plus shipping....all assuming my head is ok. or spend $450 on a head with a schneider that comes with everything and a refreshed e88 head. leaning towards the latter being a better deal The final price is soo close I don't know how to decide!

Ok, Maybe that was a dumb question. I'm still a newb in the engine building world. I'm going to assume its internally oiled and grindable. thought maybe having the holes on the lobes would cause issues with grinding. Anyway, I would like some advice or opinions, I've been planning on doing an NA rebuild to get close to 200 whp. I don't have much of a budget so I am trying to piece it together slowly and still drive it. Right now there is an e88 head with a 300f schneider cam available....its competition grade and I'm really tempted to buy it instead of getting a core and sending it for a regrind. Good idea? Bad idea?

There's a used F cam on ebay fo sale. Is that an internally oiled cam? And, just to be sure, it would be grindable right?

No, this time it was the #1 intake. last time was the #6 intake and exhaust, due to the oiler bar being broken. I did put on another oiler bar that I cleaned for hours with carb cleaner and pb blaster. All the holes were spraying when I was done. However I just checked it and sur enough the hole fo that lobe was plugged. So lack of oil I guess. I thought It sounded a little tappety, but not much more than normal. I was under the impession that I could reset the lash and check everything within 1000 miles and not have to worry about it being destroyed already :/ I think i'd like to get an internally oiled cam, this oiler bar seems completely unreliable.

The only pieces that look like they got hot were the rocker and that one lobe. How could a valve just suddenly stick open? is that even possible? Thats the only way I can see the jagged wipe pattern on the rocker and the lobe happening. Anyone have a decent head they want to get rid of?

Put a fresh reground cam in a few months ago due to a wiped lobe. Got fresh lash pads, resurfaced rockers, fresh oiler bar (that I cleaned), new oil with zinc to break it in. Checked it after 100 miles and was fine, check it again today after 700 miles and the intake lobe on #1 cylinder is wiped bad. :mad: It almost looks like the lobe was hitting the the rocker pad in different places instead of wiping across it. The intake was set at .08 when i installed and its now a .14 .... i don't know if thats enough to cause the strange wipe pattern. Im thinking the valve was stuck open. This could also explain the trouble i had getting home from charlotte. and of course 200 miles babying the car home with a stuck open valve sounds like it would ruin things pretty quick. I was thinking it was my carbs, seemed like it was flooding due to a float bowl problem. Pics below. What are my options? Regrind the cam again? Would I have to pull the head off to find out if my valve is stinking or bent?

problem is I don't don't have the SUs. I bought the car with DGVs on it. I suppose I could get the $40 rebuild kit and try to get them working since they are leaking everywhere and one is definitely not functioning properly. I don't see much info out there for help however, if I run into problems. If I had SUs, then I agree completely, keep the SUs for now get triples later.

Thanks for the sound advise. I understand that 200 is just a number and I maybe should have said in my original post that I want at least 200. Just because i know that if I get close i wont know how to stop till I'm there or past it I wish I had more than a measly NC state teacher salary to work with....maybe someday when I quit and my dream business dyno/tuning shop in my back yard becomes a reality and makes me $$$$ i'll build it all at once. Until then, I believe i have a plan. Please feel free to bash it/correct it/have an opinion about it. 1st get triples.... 45mm drive around with cool looking sounding carbs 2nd pull head send to shop for port and polish, flow bench work...etc drive around with alot more power hopefully 3rd....get l28 block with flat top and mate with worked head and triples for 10:1 CR Drive around with huge smile yay! I've attached the Dyno sheet, guess it was 111 torque. Also a pic of the awesome driveway GF drives the s2k. Yes she makes more money than me and has no student loans :/ on a side note my z kept up with two ricers that were on the dyno that day as they both lost hp with pointless mods im guessing.

Ok, I'm going to revive this thread with an update. I just had the chance last weekend to put my car on the Dyno for free . My brother graduated top of his class and as a reward was aloud a free dyno run with three other top performing students. Anyway, I ran 108 max torque and 97 max hp. About what I expected. We didn't rev past 5500 rpms because the instructor was afraid my cheap tires would blow up. He said it might clime a little higher but not much. On the way home from Charlotte one of my carbs took a dump. I was told that a "valve" in the float bowl might be sticking causing it to flood those three cylinders. I have no interest in reviving the webers and am now saving my pennies for a set of triples! Ill be sure to post the print out as soon as I get home from work.

We will have a road force balancer at the school. I put the car on jacks and spun the tires noticed a definite hop. I've heard of people shaving the tires to deal with them being out of round, or matching the high part of the tire to the low part on the rim. There will be instructors there along with my brother so I am confident that i will be in good hands.

Glad to hear you got it worked it out. I plan on taking my car into the shop at my brothers school (UTI in Mooresville, nc) this weekend so we can do the exact same thing to my car. I've narrowed my wobble down, by replacing every part around the wheels themselves, to the balance. Wish i could find a mechanic in my area that could do this for. I hate the fact that, if I want it done right, I have to do it myself instead of leaving it to the "pros."

Sorry havn't had alot of time or money to work on the Z recently. Been doing some maintenance on the girlfriends S2000 and attended a few weddings which ate up all the cash and time. Anyhow, with some luck ill have a few bucks by the end of this month. Found out I have an L24 block. Thanks for the help on that, was really hoping to see L26 or L28:) Still can't decide if i should work with what I have, or just shop for a new block and head combo that will give me the CR and power I want. Not even sure from all my reading if the L24 e88 combo can net 200rwhp?

Blue: I just realized you are the tech tip guy. That site is awesome, helped me with so many repairs! Also noticed you have an S2000 in your garage, talked my GF into buying one over the summer. I do most of the driving so it works out great for me. Hard for me to decide which car to drive some days. Although, if she is riding along, it has to be the S as she doesn't enjoy smelling like exhaust and fuel everywhere we go :-D

I think it should be working now. I made it public and when I'm logged out of facebook it lets me watch it. If not maybe below? http://www.facebook.com/#!/video/video.php?v=683717078773

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=683717078773 Bushings will be replaced, car had some pretty bad oil leaks before I replaced almost all the gaskets. So I can see how they could be soaked. However, It does seem like there's alot of play in the rack itself.....is this normal I tried to attach a video showing the play. The wheels aren't moving at all but the movement in the column is exactly the amount that it moves when driving. Also, I can hold the steering wheel firmly and stop the movement while driving. Would adjusting the tension help with the play? Blue....you looking for someone to take that steering rack off your hands?

Been chasing down a pretty severe front wheel wobble since I bought my 260 about a year ago Rebalanced wheels. actually the best it ever drove after this first balance Got new tires and it came back worse. couple rebalances and nothing Got new rotors and new wheel bearings did the toyota caliper upgrade at the same time New ball joints were in order. Again it got worse! everything else seems very tight, the sway bar links are new, tie rod ends look relatively new and I couldn't feel any slop in the system with the car in the air. So, on my way home today, I noticed after pulling out of wally mart (left turn) that the steering wheel was not pointed straight. That's odd, i thought, i'm pretty sure that was aligned perfectly straight before. The next turn (right turn) after straightening out. The wheel is straight again!. Sure enough, a few more left then right then left turns confirmed that the steering wheel was not staying aligned. Ok, so, what is causing this? Could it be the whole rack and pinion is bad? The inner tie rod? Suggestions on how to check or what I should replace?

I knew I shouldn't have listened to all the "DON'T GO TO BIG" with your cam people.....oh well lesson learned. Another regrind possible right? new valve springs too. I'd like to ditch the DGV's, Can't decide if I should get SUs or triples....seems like SUs can perform, but the triples just have that way cool factor. Worth the money? idk 9:1 is fine. I really need to find out what I have before I go any further. PO said the car had an L24, but the car is a 260z, and after pulling a "C" cam out of it (with .160 lash pads) im wondering what about my engine is actually L24 or if the PO just didn't know. This would be much easier if It were in pieces. Hey maybe the valve springs aren't stock either! Any Zcar experts in Eastern NC?

Great thread, if I had the head off, was reading it last night. I am just trying to compile information and decide what to do before I start any work. The Z is my dd right now, but being forced to borrow my gf's S2000 while its apart will be tolerable I suppose Just trying to avoid putting a bunch of work/money into something and finding out I could have slapped together a few part for half the price and reached my goals. I've read some conflicting info on CR I believe too. Many state that pump gas will work up to 9:1 others say 10:1 is the limit. If I can reach 200whp on 9:1 that's fine. Can anyone explain why the S2000 can run on 93 with an 11:1 CR but not the Z? obviously its newer technology, but whats the real reason?

Yeah I read the thread they have up now where they got into about the higher rpms. What I couldn't find was info on using the e-88 for a high compression build. I was hoping to run premium i.e. 93. Anyway of telling the year of the e-88? If I had to guess I have a later year as when I pulled the wiped cam is was stamped "C" . I'm think around 10:1 CR.