Co0kieduster

Oops forgot to mention that, with the e88 as my head, I was thinking of either boring out what I have .040 maybe and getting flat tops or using an l28 block with flat tops I can polish the head myself, porting out of the question. If that is a must for high CR then it would go to the machinist.

I'd like to do a high CR N/A build. I have an L24 e88 head with a fresh reground cam .460 280/280. Guessing the bottom end is stock. Dual webers 32/36 After searching I don't see much info on using the e88 head for an NA build, everyone seems to be going with a n47 or p90 i believe My questions 1st how do I know what block I have? 2nd should I get an l28 with one of the other heads for a good NA build? And, if that's what I do will the cam I have work in the other head? 3rd will the e88 make a good high compression head? maybe with some work done? or is this not cost effective? I am not an experienced mechanic....but I have been able to do almost all the work myself so far and would like to as I want this car to teach me as much as possible. The cam had to be reground due to a broken oiler and a wiped lobe. I have a friend who is a pro and he helped my check wipe pattern, timing and tune the car when I did the cam. My goals are somewhere close to 200whp

Thanks for the advice on watching the gauge...I was outside watching the oiling bar thinking i would get at least a drip while my gf hit the starter. Sure enough there was a little movement in the gauge Started her up and got about 15psi. Hopefully after driving around today ill see more pressure!

Tried that a few times. I think whats happening is the clockwise rotation of the crank is pulling upward, away from the oil pump, hence disengaging it. I'm going to try and wiggle the crank a little and see if i can feel the spindle sliding down into place then use the dizzy without the timing piece(part with the gasket) to hold it down while i turn it over. If i see oil then I guess im looking at find away to shave some things down to allow the dizzy to keep more pressure on the spindle drive. my plan of attack after work today :/

In the process of putting my engine back together and before I installed the cam cover I went to make sure i had oil pressure. Turned the engine over via starter motor for about 2 minutes and nothing. Took out oil pump primed with oil and tried again...nothing Took oil pump out again primed with light grease installed and spun manually with a long flat head cut and chucked into a drill......YAY oil squirting everywhere. Took out oil pump reinstalled with drive spindle, installed dizzy with cap off to watch rotor spin (which it did)....absolutely no oil pressure anywhere after spinning the engine via the starter motor. The spark plugs are removed and the engine is spinning slow but with the drill i can spin it just as slow and still get oil spraying from the cam oiler. right now im convinced that the drive spindle is somehow not turning the receiver in the oil pump. to verify i removed the oil pump one last time and packed some light grease in it, reinstalled, checked that dizzy was tight, basically have no gaskets on dizzy end or pump end at this point think i can get the two closer together. After spinning the engine i took out the pump to check if it had moved the grease and sure enough it hadn't What could cause the spindle to not reach? It worked before i took it all apart just fine. Is there spring in the receiving end of the pump to keep it engaged with the spindle thats not working? Please help this is driving me crazy

Just ordered them from zccjdm.com, everyone else basically said they aren't being manufactured anymore. Thanks for the help.

I need help finding .160" lash pads. I just got my cam reground to remedy a wiped lobe and now all I need to put it back together is a set of lash pads. Tried to order some from nissan.cc but they are discontinued. Nissan.cc was selling them for around $27 for a full set and the only other ones i can find are at motorsport for $60 a set. I'm on a budget and don't feel like spending more than double on such a simple part that is so difficult to find!\ Please help.

Ended up buying a drive shaft from a member of the local zcar club. All is well. Now if only i can figure out where all this vibration is still coming from.

all four were loose old and new

the front ujoint is a GMB brand, im thinking of ordering one and seeing if that fits.

yolks aren't out of round, and they seem to measure the same as the front yolks although i'm only eyeballing it with a tap measurer. roughly 25mm

To clarify a little more, I got neapco brand ujoints from advanced auto, which were the same ones that carquest had in stock. Unfortunately I took them back already and don't remember the part number.

Right, the old u-joint basically fell out once the clip were off. Bought the new one by cross reference.

Tried to search fo this problem but came up with nothing. When I went to install my new drive shaft ujoint this morning it was loose. What I mean is the cap was spinning in the whole instead of around the splines. I was replacing the ujoint because i noticed the old one doing the same thing. Does this mean my driveshaft is no good since the old ujoint caps spun in the wholes and bored them out a bit? Or would buying the more expensive spicer brand joints fix the issue? I just grabbed the only ones available at advanced auto fo 10 bucks.

I'm not sure if the unibody can straightened. I talked to the owner when i went and he didn't act as if i was out of luck if it was bent. I'm hoping its maybe just the rear suspension. Replacing parts sounds more promising.

Sorry I haven't posted in a while. I was in the process of taking care of all the safety issues with the car before doing any modifications. I was assuming all the standard stuff wouldn't take long, but when I was at the tire shop trying to figure out where my shimmy and rear wheel noise was coming from (after a set of new tires) I found out that the rear end is pretty jacked up. Camber, toe and the right wheel is shifted forward. So everything is being put on hold until I can figure out what i've gotten myself into....I guess you never know with these old cars. Just from looking at the car everything "appears" straight all the seems line up no visible cracks in the body, all the wheels are perfectly centered in the wheel wells. Should have brought a tape measure with me and measure from hub to hub maybe. Anyway the car will be going to the body shop, hopefully next week, to be put on the frame rack and inspected for a bent frame. Again, not feeling good about this, I wont drive a car until everything is straight and riding the way it is meant to. Just worried they're going to tell they can't fix it or its going to cost a million dollars. This is the first time i've dealt with something like this.

Oh and ajmcforester....love the S2000 also, that and the BMW Z4 Coupe are on my wish list.

Thanks for all the sound advice. I am looking for a daily driver that has some decent power, more than 151, idk...somewhere between 170 and 200? Don't know how reasonable that is. Just looking for a little extra power without having to go through all the steps to strengthen the frame and make it into a race car. I don't want a drag car or a race car. I want it to be comfortable, fun to drive, have a good sound system, and look freakin good. Also would like to get as much power from the engine to the wheels. I don't know if an engine producing 151 but only getting 100 to 120 of that to the wheels is good or bad? What kind of reasonable steps can be taken to get more of that to the wheels? I would be happy with only small hp gains in the engine if i could just get more of it to the wheels. Again i dont know what numbers are reasonable. I hope i've been able to clear up my goals. If i just drop in an L28 at some point will that mesh good with the rest of the car as is?

May have made myself sound like an idiot on that last sentence....I doubt i will replace the cam, but here is my thought process with what limited understanding of engines i have. Most people with these "tuners" I see everyday that sound like crotch rockets. Have just thrown random performance parts at their car without considering the "big picture". Turbo kit, intercooler, three inch pipe, etc. My thinking is if i start with the cam shaft then that would help me determine what type of exhaust and intake system i would want to go to that would work in harmony with the cam allowing for just right amount of overlap. Depending on how much power this actually adds to just the engine that would determine the upgrades to the drive train, brakes, suspension, etc. Correct me if this bad thinking.

From what i understand the L26 is exactly the same engine just stroked...might be nice to have a bit more displacement...Like i said in my first post, I'm eventually looking to swap it out for an L28 anyway. I just want to see what I can do with what i have for not much money...time is not an issue (im a high school math teacher) Thanks for all the advice about tuning it up. Knowing where to start is what im looking for. To reply to ajmcforester. I knew someone out there would tell me that my car should have a bit of power:) One of my first thoughts was compression and two people have already mentioned that. My brother is attending UTI in Mooresville NC. Drove out there last weekend thinking he could run the tests for me but havn't had a chance just yet. Havn't pulled a single plug out. Clutch is good. There is a loose U-Joint i discovered that was hopefully causing the disturbing vibration when i let off the gas around 65mph. The list of things to do when im back in NC. (with the fam in NY for xmas till the 3rd): Valve timing Compression Test Change oil/oil filter Attempt to fix small oil leaks (oil pan i think) Change or clean air filters Check spark plugs and wires....might just change unless obviously brand new fix U-Joint Ordered a set of 215/60/14's to install....actually bigger than the 185s on there now...but i wanted wider tires Dont know anything about carbs. How much if any power could having a set of dual webers add? Can carbs be tuned for more power? allow more fuel? or are they just tuned or not tuned? Also curious about properly timed valves....intake valves closing to early sounds like hindrance on hp. All a learning process for me....looked up some prices on performance cam kits i little more expensive than i thought but seems like a good idea for more power without being excessive.

Ok so, after initially cleaning things up, I think i will try some relatively inexpensive upgrades. I've been told that the camshaft is the best place to start (working from the inside out). The engine will be almost completely experimental for me as it is my first toy. I'm excited to try things and find out what works and what doesn't, of course, a little guidance is always nice. Merry Christmas

No cat. straight piped. going to check the filters. New fuel. Brakes don't drag. ...will probably change the filters and time the valves....then do a compression and leak down test. wonder how much it would cost to put a better cam in when i time the valves?

Just picked up a 1974 260 with an L24 engine, eventually I plan on rebuilding the car frame up and swapping out the L24 for an L28 turbo, but would at least like to have some fun with it till I get the money and a place to do the rebuild. Unfortunately the L24 with dual weber 32/30 carbs seems to be lacking in power. I know that it at least needs a valve adjustment( a bit of annoying tapping). But other than that it runs great the carbs seem to be fine. When i rev it up it sounds awesome and doesn't flutter has consistent pull all the way through the power band. But just lacks in power all together. My brother has a 4 banger prelude rated at 161 hp and it feels 10x more powerful. In fact, im pretty sure my POS old F150 with the original 4.9iL 6 could beat my Z off the line .....sad. Is this what I should expect? Would timing the valves improve horse power that much? Should i learn how to tune up the carbs? Where should i start? Any help/suggestions much appreciated.