Dobber

I purchased wheel cyls. from Rock Auto not long ago, boots AND clips came with.

Mark both ends. If you have an auto your d shaft can be withdrawn from the trans, if it is a std. you can just leave the "U" joint hooked up and lower the rear of the shaft. ( After disconnecting the "U" joint of course. )

You can buy .180s all day long, as I did and had them milled down to the .160 that I needed. All said and done, they ended up costing aprox. 17.00 each.

Hello Doehring. You have prob. figured this out by now, but the size socket that you are looking for is a 22mm. That is good for the oil drain plug as well. As for removing the block side drain, I would not bother. Unless you are worried about non antifreeze treated water freezing and cracking the block there is no reason to worry about it. If you are just changing antifreeze mix and want a thorough drain, just flush with garden hose and recheck mix when it blends with water later. I say this because that side plug is a bugger to remove withe the block out of the car, never mind trying to do it where you can't get leverage.

Well with a combination of heat soaking in the oven and a bigger hammer, I successfully extracted those buggers. Thought it was going to be a new piston for sure. Thanks for the tip Zed Head.

Thanks guys. I have been tapping on the end gap, to no avail, other than the little chips in the ring land. %$#@ I'll throw it in the oven and see what that does. Besides starting a wtf are you doing with my oven question. Blue, could you pls. read my post about the crankshaft again? Let me know what you think.

I have a piston with the top two rings seized. These were new ( rings and pistons ) when the p.o. put the motor in storage. when I bought it, I oiled all the cylinders several times over the last 6 months and all but these two rings came out ok.. I have tried all the obvious, soaked in Sea spray for three days, tapped on rings, put it in a pot of boiling water for 5 min., tapped on rings and they just won't let loose. Has anyone got a wild card out there?

Well I lucked out. The crank in the L24 that came with the car miced out to perfect spec. Now I am toying with the idea of doing the short stroke setup. F54 block, L24 crank and rods, L28 std. flat tops, N42 head with 450/450 cam, SUs and a header. Late 5 speed with R200 3.7 gearing. I guess this setup would be more of an auto-crosser/canyon carver, than the longer stroked L28 setup, being more of a cruiser, higher speed loving setup. All I would be changing is the stroke. Does this all sound about right? Tak510, are you still out there?

Thanks Blue. I don't know what they did to that crank. It looks like they polished that much off or something. Oh well, I have the original motor, so I guess I will have to tear it down and have a look at the crank. Trying to avoid machine shop costs if I can. I put allot of money into the head and other related ancillaries

Looks like wrong size bearings for sure Blue. Here are the nums. ALL of the crank bearing ids are at std. spec. 2.162" ALL of the crank journals are at 2.152-3" So according to my calcs. ( this is the scary part I was referring to ) that would leave a gap of 0.026"s or .013 that I need to fill. Thus if I go to an over sized bearing of .0040/.0100" or .010/.025mm I should be back in business. Am I in the ball park Blue?

Thats the kind of info. I need. thanks for the help Blue. I will mic the crank tomorrow and let you know whats up.

That is what I was afraid of. Yes that is in mm. I wonder how he got so far off with the measurements? The crank journals look like new. Someone goofed big time. That would have been nice, install that in my rebuilt car. Black dragon lists 2 over sized bearings .010" .25mm and .020" .50mm but if I am twice over, then even the .020" won't be enough, right? I hope I am reading this right. All I am going by is the plastigauge at this point. I know I can lift up on the snout of the crank and feel it move up and down ( very slight but noticeable )

I finally tore down the engine that came with the 71 240Z that I bought ( It was mounted to a nice stainless steel rolling stand. ) and started to pull everything apart. The guy said it was just rebuilt and had not been run yet. No way was this going in the car without a thorough tear down and tolerance check. This is an F54 block with std 79 flat tops. I pulled all the pistons and started to plasti gauge the center main bearing. I started with green plastic and it did not even touch the cap. ( these are brand new bearing shells ) I went to the red plastic and torqued the cap down to 40flbs. the reading was approx 3/4 of 0.152. approx 0.114. the next were the same, moving toward the front of the block. The front main came in at exactly 0.152. What I need to know is, ( because these decimal points make me crazy ) where do these numbers fall into the main bearing running clearances of 0.020 to 0.072?

Nothing wrong with MSA's price on these at 6$ ea. The problem is that, the supply of the more popular thinner pads ( .150, .160, .170 etc.) are not available and have been back ordered for some time. Thus, you have to buy thick and have them cut down. That of course adds to the price. BUT... the good folks over at zccjdm.com are manufacturing them, along with rocker arms. I just did not hear about them in time. Same 6$ for the first batch, then will go to a whopping 7$ ea. Wish I had Known. It is really hard to return machine work.

Well like everybody else, I looked everywhere for the proper lash pads for my new cam. I was grateful for the suggestion of other members to go with thicker pads and have them machined down to correct size. Unfortunately I was not aware of ZCC at the time. Long story short I ordered .180 pads from MSA = 60.00. ( great price ) Shipping = 11.95. Machining ( to .160 ) = 9.75 each = 117.00. Tax = 14.04. For a grand total of $ 202.94 or $ 16.91 each. This, cobbled with a returned cam that I ate the shipping, tax and duty on, springs and head work, it quickly becomes apparent, how one can spend thousands on a rebuild. SO, if you see lash pads for $10.00 that are at your spec. out there, I would suggest that you grab them.

Beautiful, very tastefully done. I am still bead blasting suspension bits. You give us all hope and inspiration. Would love to see pics of your engine compartment.

Talked to a few people who are using Hawk HPS's and they are very happy with them. Have also talked to several people who just run stock Toyota pads that they got from the wreckers and they are doing gymkhana's with no problems. So, because everything else in my system is new, I went with the Hawk HPS pads. I will, in all likelihood, never buy pads for this car again. Thanks for the input guys.

Go to MINILITEWHEELS.US and select TECH

BRE-240Z thanks for feedback, Hawk seems to have a few flavors of the HP. What are yours. ie: Black, blue, plus ? Just spirited back road ( When safe to do so. ) Marty. Just looking for the best bang for the buck for my setup.

Sorry, that should read 1980 Toyota calipers.

Looking for feedback on front brake pads and who is using what from whom and the pros and cons of your choice. My setup: 80 Toyota 4x4 calipers stock rotors stainless lines 7/8 m/c 280z booster stock rear drums

Let me make this perfectly clear, I am very confident, that we can actually reduce our carbon footprint and actually move forward as we are actually really moving forward. Let there be no doubt.

Pretty sure it is from the 2+2.

Yeah, I'm thinking that will be the less painful rout twsutt. My firewall has already been drilled. I went this way before, but they sent the wrong booster. It was 10" in dia. and it threw me off, so I sent everything back. Doh!

Hi Gully. I am having the same prob. I have new Toyota 4x4 calipers ( early, narrow ) and will mount them on stock rotors. I wanted to get the larger bore 15/16 master, but no luck anywhere. ( Black dragon is back ordered too. ) Due to the increase in pedal effort with the larger bore, I was going to try a universal, double diaphragm booster. Around 100.00, and the firewall mounting studs are stock 3 and 3/8s centers. The one prob. with this is that the master cyl. studs are the same 3 and 3/8s. ( Stock being 2 and 1/8 ) Soooo... because of the unobtainable 15/16 ZX master, I am searching around for a 15/16 master with 3 and 3/8s mounting studs, that will work on the 240Z system. ( 1971 HLS 30 - 39379 )