Dobber

Thanks zKars.

A much less complicated throttle system, is a cable linkage such as Lokar. Go to Arizonazcar.com and look for 4-barrel manifold install. Sorry i don't have quick link.

I am running 300ZX brake calipers on my 71 240Z, so thought I would update the master and booster to a 280ZX setup. The booster that I received, is a monstrous 10in. in diameter. It comes close to covering the clutch mounting hole altogether. What car would this be from? From what I can determine, there are only two sizes, 8in. and one slightly bigger. I found a thread on this awhile back, but can not locate it now. What size booster am I looking for?

That is going to be a fun car. I had a Healy back in 69. It had the big four cyl., can't remeber the displacement, but was a blast to drive. The one thing I do recall, the brakes were not one of its strong points. You may have to do a bit of an up grade in that area, but would be well worth it. Looks like you are getting close.?

Pretty sure that is the hose you want. At 16.00 a copy, who cares. Keep it clean and send it back for the other hose.

Thanks Blue. Looks like the best route, buy big and cut down.

I will give them a call. MSA and Rebello saying have been back ordered from Japan for around 8 months.

That is a better idea for sure. I may try to sand one of the stock pads, just to calculate how old I will be when done.He,he... At least I could get my engine put back together. Thanks Diseazd

Has anybody found a source for .160in lash pads? Seems that they are rare as hens teeth. I am at the point of having the stock pad valve stem indent welded up and ground to spec.:disappoin

Thanks Diseazd. I should have looked a little deeper before I started the thread, as I found it very quickly.

Would anyone know off hand what the torque value is for the cam tower bolts?

I found it. They are torqued to 72flbs. Now I need the torque value for the cam towers.

Thanks Blue. I can not find the numbers anywhere.

Would anyone happen to know the correct torque value for the anckor bolt that scews into the head and the pivot post screws into it? They were tight enough to require a cheater bar to undo.

OOPS! Sorry John you already answered my question with your first reply. Will stay with the 12* T bar and set static to 10* and disconnect vac. and start from that point. I think I'm awake now. Thanks for the help.

I wondered about that non linear advance. The only way I could see something like that working, would be with a variable pivot point on the centrifugal weights. Just me. As I do not live in gear head utopia, ie: Distributor dyno across the alley, can you recommend a weight or spring swap for my current setup that would put me firmly in the ball park of a tunable system. Thanks for your help John.

I would be very interested in hearing how that turns out John. Even if I could find a shop with a dyno, I am sure they would have little experience with six cylinder Datsun's. My dist. is in very good condition, so would be great to use. Are you running points or electronic?

Thanks for your reply Walter. What specs did you end up with? Do you run with the vacuum adv. connected? Mine is running off the carb, not the manifold. The shaft is very as new stable, no play. I also have a D6F4-01, but I am sure this was off of an injected 280z. The numbers seem to be a little closer to what I am looking for though. Would this be a viable alternative?

Thanks for the input John. So if my dist. is in the same ball park spec wise as the D612-52 and the D612-54 ( mine is the D612-53 ) I would not be able to achieve those numbers? I would go from 5 - 7 deg. static to 12 deg. and disconnect the vacuum advance, would I be able to stretch upper end advance? The chart shows 29 and 31 for full throttle advance with no vacuum. It also shows that at 2830 rpm ( with active vacuum adv. ) there is a whopping 47 - 45 deg total adv. It seems to me that this distributor in its current curve config., is just plain wrong for my setup. ? ?

I am looking for some guidance on whether or not this distributor is going to work with the setup that the P.O. had in place. I have read Walter Moores' post and can not find my dist. number on any list. I have a D612-53, with a 12 deg. T bar. I see D612-52 and D612-54, but no -53. My distributor is from a 1971 S30 and has been converted to electronic ign. ( Crain XR3000 ) Engine config. is an F54 block, N42 head with a .450/.450 238/238 @ 0.050 cam, 6-2-1 header 1972 carbs with Z Therapy SM needles and stock air box, with cold air intake. My question is, IF this distributor falls in the same category as the D612-52 and the D612-54 with the wild centrifugal and the vacuum adv. of 18 deg. for something in the neighborhood of 32-34 initial advance ( yes, the vacuum adv. works ) and aprox. 45-47 total, work with this engine config. I am leaning more toward mid. range power. Than you for any insight on this.

Thanks for taking the time to post all the great tips.

Have to use that product sparingly ( dielectric grease ) as it is non conducting and can actually cause resistance.

It is definitely " Buyer beware ". I have not been burned yet, but you have to do your homework. So much of that " RARE " stuff on there is way over what you can buy it for retail and readily available. Also if they only get positive feed back from one good sale they will have a 100% positive profile. eMail lots of question to the seller and go with the gut.

I.M.O. I would start with a filter relocation kit that has ports for adding on the cooler at a later date. With the remote filter, you get a certain amount of cooling, plus much cleaner filter changing.

http://zparts.com/zptech/articles/mal_land/ml_sucarb2/images4/SUcarb_111601d.htm This link may help.