Dobber

Hi Dan. Nice to hear from an Albertan. I lived in Calgary for 17 yrs. The guys have me on the right track. Thanks for the post. Larry

Thank you for the info.. I had visions of nightmarish parts hunting. I have owned Zs in the far, far past but then they were new and did not require a whole lot of tinkering. No, I am not acquainted with Mr. McCauley. It would be nice to be in touch with someone locally with Z interests. They are as rare as hens teeth here. ( That is rather spooky. The previous owner of the TR6 I own, was Joanna MaCauley. The TR6 had a totally B.C. history.) MMMmmm

I was hoping you would chime in Bruce. Probably none to very little. I live on Vancouver Island, very mild and the car will be a fair weather driver only. I am looking at a set of 3 screw carbs with the float bowl drain plug. The seller is trying to find the manifolds for them.

Thanks Gary. I was concerned about the hot water passages that I heard the 3 screw carbs have.

I purchased a 71 240z with an L28 block and an N42 head with a Clifford intake. I am switching back to S.U. carbs and am looking at a pair of 3 screw carbs that are available but no manifold. Can someone pls. tell me what manifold I will need to make this come together.

This has been going on for some time. I had a TR6 for sale last year and got the " I am currently at sea." line. Not sure what the scam is but it is everywhere. I doubt that it is one guy doing this. It may have started that way but like anything else people catch on.I am thinking at this point, that it is a computer generated response,and or of Asian origin, thus the broken English. Best defense, do not respond.

One thing is for sure. The kits are worth far more than the car. There has to be the odd fish skeleton in there somewhere.

Yea, no biggy, they can't all be saved. At least your doing what you can with what you have. Best of luck with the build and looking forward to some pics. If you get stuck, there is a ship load of knowledge available right here. I bought a 110v 130 amp. MIG for 700.00 ( I am sure you could find one down there for under 600.00, without all the tax,s we are forced to pay ) and it is perfect for rebuild projects like this.

For everybody out there that thinks their Z has more rust damage than any other car out there, check out what these guys took on. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/41372-1971-datsun-240z-restoproject-vidspics/

My first question would be, who did the port work? If the answer is, "I did." I would want to know his qualifications. Did he just take a grinder to the head and call it "Race prept" and or did it go any further. i.e. Total tear down with all components properly measured and assembled. Has the Holly set up been debugged? Why is he selling it in the first place? Issues? Why not get a good set of S.U.s for your motor and save the hassle and money. Just saying, unless that engine was professionally rebuilt, with supporting and traceable documentation I would put the money into what I already have and am familiar with.

and another one bites the dust...

Great input. Thanks motorman7

sblake01 I mean't, people think their time is worth $75.00 per. hour.

One more thing to look for. The heater to cowl air intake snorkel could be rusted to the point of leaking. Perfect time to repair that nasty thing.

Yes, the foam seals in your heater box will be shot, but i am sure you have seen that by now. Perfect time to re and re all heater box components. When I took mine apart, the core looked perfect, but there was no way I was putting it back together without having it checked. Sure enough there was a pin hole leak that needed to be soldered. I can't think of anything more disheartening than to get the whole car back together and then to have the heater core leak on the boss's brand new shoes first time out.

The guy goes to the trouble of including a video for diagnostic purposes and you can't be bothered to look before you post your diagnosis. ???????

Seems like there are more and more people out there that think they are worth 75.00 per.. Just because.

I just think that it is interesting that for everyone that says they are ok., there are ten more that say that, they are boat anchors. I guess they are fine as is but are a pain to rebuild and modify for the same performance, out of the box, as the other Hitachi carbs. Some of the rebuild guys will not even take them as cores.

http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/tunacan.html http://www.zparts.com/zptech/tech_tips/izccposts/su_differences.htm http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/index.htm

Don't beat yourself up over any of this argniest. If hind site was money, we would all be stinking rich. Your plug condition can also be attributed to driving habits. I am sure that once you get your fuel system cleaned up and replace your injectors, you will get all kinds of happiness out of your car yet. Change your oil at the same time as the injs. and after the first tank of fuel and enjoy.

WoW! Are you sure some kid didn't dump a pail full of beach sand into the tank. I'm with spitz17, pull the tank befor causing untold damage to the engine.

I think you will find that those flattop emission carbs are the least desirable carb you can run. Replace with round top S.U.s from a 72 and burn premium fuel.

I would be taking a very close look at the cam and followers for lack of oil damage. Is it poss. that a p.o. swapped in a later model drilled cam and pinched off the oil feed line? I don't know if that is even poss. but you never know. I have seen some pretty goofy p.o. stuff.

Just thinking, your noise may be coming from the water pump. ? ?

ambigu0us, Congrats. on your new Z. At least your not asking about hard to relate engine probs. That shrill sound may be coming from your alt., you will have to listen with hood open and reach over and blip the throttle. The water leak could very well be the fresh air intake snorkel. It is located above the glove box. It is welded to the firewall under the cowl and is pron to rust and leak at the base. Royal pita to fix with everything in the car. I hope it is just door rubber. The dash vents are for fresh air only. Oil pres. will vary with engine r.p.m.. Depending on how well maintained and or how many miles are on the car will determine how good that pres. will be. I.E. regular oil changes, etc. The thumping could be loose or worn susp. parts. you will have to get it safely supported and get under with a prise bar and check it out. Hope some of this helps.