Patcon

Here is the rear kit https://www.thezstore.com/product/704/camber-adjustment-kit-rear-70-78-240z-260z-280z I have a set of these in my shop. I ran them on my first z because the toe in was so messed up. They require a thin wrench to adjust

I don't believe you are missing the bushings, per se. I believe you have these, but for the rear. They may be missing the cushion rubber though

That's awesome!!

If you're doing alot of back to back starting attempts, you could overheat the starter. Even with the cooling period. It takes a lot longer to get the heat out than it does to get it in. Also, many new parts are not quality parts. Mechanical fuel pumps have been questionable for a while now unless you can find a good factory pump

Do you have an appropriate spark map loaded? That sounds like the advance or timing is incorrect

I always assumed it was spark erosion...

That's really not very many miles for a cap. I agree, I would replace it and then just check it periodically. I also suggest buying a small journal and writing down the mileage when you install parts and perform oil changes. It surprising how fast time goes by! I will also add unique details about my car in my journal, such as what brake rotors and pads I run on my car. I have a conversion kit. That way who ever comes along behind me, knows how to source replacements...

How many miles are on that cap?

So I'm working on a few things: I have a very faint exhaust smell with only the drivers window down and the fresh air vents open. I suspected the interior panel on the hatch but I covered it with plastic and tape but I still have it. So it could be the taillights? or some other floor penetration. However I used seal n peal caulk on the tail lights and I caulked the vent hose penetrations and the filler neck penetration with black latex. So I don't know. I have considered trying to extend the exhaust tip on Sean's exhaust to get it further out behind the car... I also finally got an alignment on Friday. I have started putting a few miles on the car but didn't want to venture too far until I was sure I wouldn't damage the tires. My frame man does my alignments and he's a friend of mine. While under the car he noticed one of the sway bar bushings was missing up front and there wasn't much travel on the front springs until they hit coil bind! Like maybe 1/2" of travel... Now it's possible that I have the wrong springs on the front and back. (ie. have them swapped) but I think the car would sit funny if I had done that since the front should be significantly heavier. Although my rear springs are loose in the spring perches when the suspension is at full droop. So I need to do a little digging. I believe these are Tokico red lowering springs. On smallish bumps the springs becomes solid and it's quite noticeable Looks like this is an old issue HybridZProblems with Tokico Springs in a 240ZJust spent the better part of a week and a half doing struts, springs,sway bars and bushings on my Z. When I get the car back on the ground the front ride height is way low. The front Tokico springs aI have had these for years waiting on me to get the car on the road. If it's not an installation issue, which it's starting to appear it's not, which direction do you go? I could go with Swift springs which is the cheaper, easier route or I could go coil over and that would allow me to run a wider tire if I wanted. The cost is significantly higher too... Ideas?? PS I haven't had my weird back feed ignition issue the last dozen times I been in the car or so

Did you get it bled?

No, the oil will pour out the rear of the transmission if no drive shaft is installed when it's tilted up. I would loosen the plugs on the tranny and fill it once it's in the car. They make little hand pumps that make this really easy

I have watched some you tube videos about similar chassis, such a the FJ and the celica. The discrepancies and problems compared to factory chassis' were really bad and not insignificant

I would have loved to be there but just couldn't make it work. Maybe we can meet another time Chuck

Appears to be built with a VW Beetle suspension and drivetrain...

I don't have a lot of problems with fasteners but I do keep the humidity low in my shop. About 45%... When I plate they go in a pickling bath that sort of takes care of any mild flash. If they're visibly rusty at all, I bead blast them again. But I have parts I cleaned months or years ago that still look ready for plating after being laying a round the shop Sheet metal I treat with a product from Eastwoods