Patcon

I think your idea is good, unfortunately if someone cranked it down really hard it can damage the body

I feel quite confident the repops are coming from Asia already

I have the xenon air dam too. I'm not overly impressed either. With it on the car properly the flat surface underneath the grill is wavy. Not much to be done about that. I wish they would make them out of TPO like other bumper skins. I could cut it and plastic weld but nothing to be done with the urethane one

John, I may have clips. Do you have any pictures of what you have? C

How are you adding the starter fluid?

Thanks Ferg I agree on the observations If I have another bulk batch, I'll have to try them That was one of my goals for this thread, to consolidate the names of good platers in one location with an easily searchable title

I totally agree! I will probably try to replate some of that on my own and see what I get

Pictures would be better

The four sleeves...

So I got the missing hardware. It looks ok... These bits didn't plate The steering coupler also didn't plate but might have if I had strung a wire through it. The finish on this was very motly Some Clear zinc The finish on this wasn't stellar These also weren't as shiny or even as I would have hoped Overall it's ok and much of the hardware looks pretty good. At this point I'm just glad they found the hardware. That would have been really painful to have lost all of that yellow hardware

The spindle can't turn when it's engaged to the crankshaft. The pump stator will stay stationary in the pump when the outside body rotates

Try a rubber mallet. They may have used a sealant

It is possible the engine is so badly overheated or low on compression that it wont make enough power to get over 5 mph. I suspect all the symptoms are related

I had the same issue on mine. It had the same goop between the pieces. Unfortunately, I dont remember exactly how I resealed it. I know I rewelded it but I don't remember if I epoxied it too

I think you should do a compression test first while its assembled. That will provide some numbers first. Many parts stores have them and some have them as rentals. If you've never done one, ask questions...

I understand, my point was they are both very important on cars like this. No computer to shut it off on over temp or low oil pressure

Not really a good idea to run without a temp or oil gauge. So it probably ran hot, warped the head, possibly scored the cylinders. It's gonna need some major investigation. I would pull the head and check for flatness. Well I might run a compression test first...

Did the car run hot on the temp gauge?

He mentioned the PS door was open, wouldn't that supply a path to ground?

What did you need to modify?

I would think you could shape that piece fairly easily. Make a rectangular patch. Make the hard crease in a vise. Shape the curve over a piece of pipe

S54 M coupe. Love it. They are very fast. We have an 06 M roadster in the driveway right now we are rebuilding. Such a nice motor... BTW how does one determine if the rod bearings need refreshing?

That was a good investment!!

No reserve! That's bold. I don't think I would agree to that unless I was really confident I wasn't going to leave a couple hundred thousand on the table!

Possibly, I believe the end of the sensor acts as a stop