Patcon

I ran epoxy primer and then shot under coater over it. My car had been blasted on a rotisserie. I would not use wax, that's just me. A correct restoration would be primer, then paint even in the wheel wells. I like the wheel wells to be blacked out. So that is part of the reason I went with under coater. I don't intend to baby the car so I wanted something a little tougher than paint. The car is 50+ years old and this installation and these materials far exceed the factory install. It won't be a problem in my lifetime and my kids will be in their 60's before they should have to worry about it, if ever.

I think I have done that a couple of times over my extended years! 😉

Those look really nice! The battery tray is such a nice repop item!

I believe it should slide past. Once the balancer is on and tightened down, it can't move. IIRC...

Really nice repair! Other than the diameter of the spot welds its invisible

You can click through even though the certificates are expired. I don't really know how to keep those current...

I bought my shrinking disc from Wray Shcelin. He's amazing moving metal around. That's an aluminum front end. So much more difficult than steel!

Yes!

I think he prefers the look of electric fans. No electronic control pf the fans. With the fans on all the time it over cools and warms up too slowly. Without the fans it warms up properly but would overheat with out the fans. Looking for a practical way for control. Most of the time a temperature probe is strapped to the radiator some where. Have you looked for fan switch setups at Summit Racing or Jeg's? I like the idea of using an unused port in the thermostat housing but finding the right device to mount there might be an issue. I believe the threading is BSPT but 1/2" NPT can be made to work

Yes, the three on each side. As I recall there is a little movement in each hole but more in some than others. I also recall the hinge sort of rotates when you push the hood down. Then ighten them up... The other two, I really use for lining the hood between the fenders and cowl

That car might be a really good deal...It was a fun color

I believe I loosened all three, but it's been several years since I have done this

I think a wide band would be mandatory for the swap

Loosen the bolts in the left hood hinge. Remove the light or turn signal. Push the hood down and then tighten the hinge bolts while holding the hood down. See if that helps

All very common rust areas. I like those railroad jacks! 😉

You might want to get Steve's help with some preventive diagnostics before you plug in you new high dollar fuse box. They really shouldn't melt like that...

The wood works better than calipers because you can make several and use them to hold the panel In place while you tighten it down

http://fedhillusa.com/ Cunifer, copper nickel alloy and they are really nice to deal with. A little scotch brite to clean the lines up nice. A nice brake line flaring tool is expensive but a joy to use. There was a recent thread about a less expensive tool that worked good too

I love the look of triples and I have a set I may run. But Im not sure they add a whole lot over SUs other than lower fuel economy

I suspect the fuel. The newer Fuels are designed to atomize easier to make them burn cleaner. So the bowls are just drying out

I use little Blocks of soft wood for gauging

http://www.zcarparts.com/ They give a discount to classiczcar members

I would use Fedhill material and make my own

Is this what you wanted? 15 5/8" "cut an inch" So 14 5/8" x 25.4 = 371.5mm The level is not "level" but extended along the body line

35 years...😉