Patcon

Oh my!!! I think those are the rustiest Zs I've ever seen! They want a $1000 each!!!

She's going to be that yellow that is already on her. I jambed the car out a few years ago but decided on moving my paint edge, so I am shooting over some of the existing single stage

Are these Stainless lines? I agree with Zed, look for a crack or other flaw in the flare and cone

Tonight, I worked on wrapping her back up again

So Saturday I got all the wet sanding in 600 done

Post some pictures. Maybe take some pictures of the offending fitting on the end of the brake line and the flare. The more the better

I believe the plate is captive and held by some tabs inside the quarter panel. My are and I can't imagine them being different for different markets.

On a separate note, the door strike area of the door jamb has 3 round stud looking projections. What are those? In the US we just have a threaded plate inside the jamb to accept bolts.

The connecting tubes could probably be as small as 1"x1"...

Also the transmission will drain out the rear when the engine is highly tilted if you don't drain it first or use a rubber cap on it

Anything you do will be way more than the factory did and the cars lasted 50 years, many of which were probably neglected due to being a relatively cheap car. That won't be the case going forward. Should last just fine another 50-60. It may be all (or most) the seam sealer was done from top side for ease of manufacturing. I suspect the seams were sealed to keep the interior dry, not necessarily for longevity

I was originally going to reference left and right but was concerned that might cause confusion based on whether they knew that was based on looking from the rear of the car

Yes, the bumper rail hides most of the crease line

I responded in the duplicate thread

I would use seam sealer on the joint from the floor pan to the rocker panel. If it already has weld thru primer on it, it'll be fine.

I would want to tie them together with a bar or two, front to back. I would be afraid of tweaking the body mounts if one frame doesn't roll for some reason

The one Ferg posted is rusty 😞

My last floor I did DIY it was about $0.30 a foot. Today the same material is about $2.00 a foot

On left hand drive cars, the tank is mounted off center towards the passenger side and the spare tire is off center towards the drivers side

I was just shopping for floor epoxy last night. Man, has it gotten expensive!!

If you have MIg & TIG welders then you should be well off. I would try KF vintage for what I would call the upper "frame rail" or the "fresh air channel". See if they can supply it. If not I would talk to a local metal shop about fabricating it. Lastly I would make it myself

I am glad you posted that. I was not thinking of that at all when you said "apron". That level or corrosion there would be a problem for me. That's a really structural piece. It's important for it to be solid and strong at least up to and past the shock tower. If it were me I would replace all that metal, but many people don't have the tools or the experience to do that. Can you weld?

Yes, photos of the pitting would be helpful

I thought the cadillacs had a draw down trunk mechanism? Construction is crazy right now! Go ahead and find the wire, blue boxes and panels or meter base that you need. They can be very difficult to source and may take a month or two to find it all. If you're going to need any interior paint start now trying to find it too. I wanted some concrete this week and one of the plants I use told me I could have some after Christmas!!!

Pretty much finished with 400 dry will wet sand at 600 over the weekend The biggest problem now, is my back is pissed!!! I'm hoping to wet sand this weekend, retape the car and clean up and be ready to spray by Monday. Might spray the car this coming Thursday. We'll see..