Patcon

Well, I'm unhappy! That's really an understatement. I'm absolutely pissed!! 🤬 So I ran the heater in the shop for a while to warm it up. Degrease the car and tack it good. Wet the floor down, ready to spray Using a Tyveck suit I had and I have found that tucking paper towels into my gloves prevents dripping on the panels So I am running a white sealer coat. The P sheet calls for one "medium coat to coverage" Well that's not gonna happen!!! Even at the coverage level where it runs, it hasn't covered the grey primer. The yellow needs a white base or it's a different shade when shot over a darker base Not only did the sealer run really easy but I have tons of sh!t in the paint. I mean everywhere! I have no idea where it came from?? I had planned on sealer, then base coat, then clear. Now I have to sand again and get dust everywhere which will just compound the problem. and I will have to seal again. So frustrating...

It's always nice when the solution gets posted up, even if it's a little embarrassing. Glad you got it sorted!

I agree going from thick new metal to old thin metal can be a challenge. You did really well and there's not really a better method other than a spot welder. One continuous seam line would be easier. I normally tack all the floor tabs to the tunnel with ¼" self tapping screws and cut through both layers with a cut off wheel.

Thats why I asked earlier if they were stainless . Stainless can be very difficult to seal, especially if the flares aren't perfect .

If I thought they shipped me a cracked line, I would expect them, to make it right!

The floor pan looks really good. You did a good job!

Oh my!!! I think those are the rustiest Zs I've ever seen! They want a $1000 each!!!

She's going to be that yellow that is already on her. I jambed the car out a few years ago but decided on moving my paint edge, so I am shooting over some of the existing single stage

Are these Stainless lines? I agree with Zed, look for a crack or other flaw in the flare and cone

Tonight, I worked on wrapping her back up again

So Saturday I got all the wet sanding in 600 done

Post some pictures. Maybe take some pictures of the offending fitting on the end of the brake line and the flare. The more the better

I believe the plate is captive and held by some tabs inside the quarter panel. My are and I can't imagine them being different for different markets.

On a separate note, the door strike area of the door jamb has 3 round stud looking projections. What are those? In the US we just have a threaded plate inside the jamb to accept bolts.

The connecting tubes could probably be as small as 1"x1"...

Also the transmission will drain out the rear when the engine is highly tilted if you don't drain it first or use a rubber cap on it

Anything you do will be way more than the factory did and the cars lasted 50 years, many of which were probably neglected due to being a relatively cheap car. That won't be the case going forward. Should last just fine another 50-60. It may be all (or most) the seam sealer was done from top side for ease of manufacturing. I suspect the seams were sealed to keep the interior dry, not necessarily for longevity

I was originally going to reference left and right but was concerned that might cause confusion based on whether they knew that was based on looking from the rear of the car

Yes, the bumper rail hides most of the crease line

I responded in the duplicate thread

I would use seam sealer on the joint from the floor pan to the rocker panel. If it already has weld thru primer on it, it'll be fine.

I would want to tie them together with a bar or two, front to back. I would be afraid of tweaking the body mounts if one frame doesn't roll for some reason

The one Ferg posted is rusty 😞

My last floor I did DIY it was about $0.30 a foot. Today the same material is about $2.00 a foot

On left hand drive cars, the tank is mounted off center towards the passenger side and the spare tire is off center towards the drivers side