Patcon

I'm not sure the discrepancy isn't from how you measure the booster. If you measure the main chamber its 6" When you measure out to the outside band, its closer to 7". I would still contact a rebuilder. Doesn't matter what size it is. As long as they have parts for it

Where did you clip that?

@Zup Good to see you around! I was just wondering how you were doing.

Shifter is still in the car, so the drive train is still in it. They've removed alot of the rocker and the floors were obviously weak. Thats how the gaps got distorted

Or run a bolt on it and put it in the vise and straighten it. Clamp the bolt, bend a little at a time

My memory is failing but I thought the smallest one was 7". Maybe call Harmon classic or PBE and they can walk you through measuring and identifying yours and whether they have parts for it

I think unzipping the doors would be harder. If I had to guess they did the repair on jacks stands without removing the drivetrain. Thereby distorting the chassis

It looks like they replaced the dog legs and didn't check the door fit while they did it

Head light relay?

Some possibilities https://devilbissclub.com/spray-guns/devilbiss-gti-pro-lite-without-cup-regulator/ https://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.com/products/prolite/prolite-gravity.aspx https://www.amazon.com/Tekna-703567-1-2mm-1-3mm-ProLite/dp/B006JYNEEK/ref=asc_df_B006JYNEEK?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80882941400083&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482468471655&psc=1

Yes, basically 😉 The gun I'm using has been used for all sorts of stuff. Its older and can be difficult to clean. I thought I might get some better atomization and less overspray with a better gun. Since overspray is really just money floating down wind. I spent about $800 on paint last week. That was some basecoat, clear, some catalyst for a primer and a quart of epoxy primer. I'm using Nason paints, so a budget line of paints. Not top shelf. I already had sealer and high build primer. Things are drastically more expensive this year!

John, Let me look around

As a point of reference, I have an older Devilbiss set that has multiple tips. I probably paid in the $180s for it. I think its probably low $200s now. I suspect there is a noticeable step up to a good gun if you've sprayed enough. Starts to be justified when paint is getting this expensive. I would use it strictly for basecoat / clearcoat. Use my older gun for primer

Having bought some more paint recently at eye watering prices, I am considering getting a pro level gun. Tried to do some googling but kept finding the same useless info. Does anyone have any recommendations? Sata, Iwata, DeVilbiss, Tekna, etc...

I believe on a 280z they have a different shape. Thats why I wanted the picture...

Got my crew working this morning, then sort of took a half day off I shot some epoxy over the bare metal areas and then stacked some high build until the gun started acting up

Take a picture of what you've got

So it only makes noise when the drivetrain is turning? Not when you rev it up. If it were me, I would support the rear on jack stands and chock the front wheels securely, then spin the drivetrain up and see if I could locate the noise. A helper to drive would be good or a friend with a dyno might be good too.

In the time I've had it, I've never had spitting or moisture when I'm painting. Even in our really humid summers

@DC871F I have a 50 gallon Ingersol rand outside my shop. So cold air in the winter, not so much in the summer. It comes through the wall and goes into about three loops of 3/4" copper line. Then it hits a pressure regulator and a water separator. The water trap has a drain plumbed through the wall that I can blow down Then it travels across the shop about 30' and hits my three stage filter dryer. It's a nice unit with desiccant beads but it has gotten kind of pricey in the last few years. I only use this air source for painting and it stays shut off otherwise. When the beads turn pink, I bake them in the oven on about 200F until they're dark blue again At some point I might rework the loop to be up near the ceiling and horizontal so the loops don't hold water that way. I could also do like you did and use a condenser as a cooler. Maybe, in my spare time 😉 Hope this helps

I did this on classic beetle a couple of years ago. I bought some unjacketed steel cable. Just left the end frayed. I used brake cleaner and a drill, like you did. Glad you got it. That homemade amber can be really hard to deal with sometimes

Wish I could sometimes! Me, myself and I are the only three working on this thing 😉 As a note, I jambed out the car with single stage but after ruminating on it for a while decided it would be easier to finish paint if I included portions of the hatch area and door jambs in my final paint. It makes it easier to tape up and not have a noticeable start / stop point

So brought the car inside and cleaned it up. Used some Ospho on it. Then a couple of days later I sanded it all with 320 on a DA. So I realized that I might get some over spray on the headliner, which I installed while it was on the rotisserie. Then got it wrapped up So all wrapped up and was going to spray some epoxy but the idiot running the shop forgot to check if we had some!!

Yes, pull the correct one off the old engine

Do you not have the thermostat housing with sufficient holes?