Patcon

Something controllable. Dremel, round file, low speed die grinder

I started with a 100 amp flux core. Then, I did a gas bottle on it. Now I have a Hobart 230, that is about the right size. The only real complaint I have is the 12 current settings versus infinite adjustment. I run .023" wire with gas and normally weld on setting 1 or 2. .030 or .035 wire requires more current to puddle and that can make blow through holes. 20 ga really isn't that bad to weld but there are some super thin areas of the that are. I have also found that unlike good golf clubs, a good welding machine make a welder much better. Unlike my golf game... If you can afford it, get the better machine now and learn it versus learning how to make the wrong machine get by. I also agree, if there are gas services in your area that will fill privately owned bottles, go that route. I have a 99 year lease on my bottle so I exchange it at my local welders supply for a new bottle when its empty but no rental charges

One thing is, the hatch may need to sit slightly higher then it does now. It will be close to the line it should be on but not perfect. The hatch could go forward a little more to line up better, but I have found it very difficult to get it right all the way around. Like grannyknot said, the cars weren't perfect right off the line. I am sure well restored cars are much smoother, straighter and better gapped than factory cars were.

If you can get the hatch closed without paint damage, post a picture of how the lower edge lines up with the rear of the car Also inspect the hinge tabs that are welded to the hatch. The welds can fail and the tabs can move, making adjustment more difficult

Flux core is not the way to make this repair in my opinion. You need gas and mig with a decent duty cycle. If you're burning holes, then your current is too high or the metal is too thin. A welder with too low a duty cycle can also do this when overworked

Ron, maybe some pictures would help Pictures all the way around the hatch...

But, you couldn't get it adjusted where it looked good? I haven't found the hatch hinges to have excessive slop

Are trying to align the hatch with the shock installed?

I believe the firewall is all there is

Thanks for the complete story!

He evidently has it diagnosed and moving on with a repair

Also that actuator bar looks bent

Be advised, I have cut those before with a flat head screwdriver if they are really stuck. I would prefer a punch or a brass drift would be even better

FYI There is a record line of container ships off the west coast. Supply chain disruption is not likely to get better before the spring. No excuse for not communicating though

40k was probably a good price for that car. Clean and restored worth 2-3x that

Looks great

Norm is Zeddsaver, I believe, my mistake

Is Charlie still making floors or did he retire?

Norm is a real business but I wouldn't deal with him if I didn't have to

How Obvious! 🤣

Looks like the man is growing a thumbnail back!

What did you find? Final cause of the problem?

If that is the question... There is a metal stack, welded to cowl substructure that keeps water from flowing into the fresh air intake. There is a flat piece of metal welded above it to prevent water from dropping into the stack

Which intake?

It really is a shame O2 sensors dont work since all modern cars use them to adjust the fuel mixture (sarc) 😣