Patcon

I have found that most shops dont want to paint classic cars. Almost all of them. The main stream shops that will, end up regretting it in the end. Shops that do classic cars many times specialize in mustangs or mopar or whatever. That leaves our Japanese tin out on the cold. Also these cars are thin and not as forgiving as beating on a 50s or 60s American car. An adjuster might be able to provide good leads. You could also go talk to some auto body supply shops ( finishmaster, S-W auto, etc) If you can pull the store manager aside and get a discreet recommendation preferably without witnesses ( you will get better honesty this way without the risk of offending customers) that would be my preferred method. I have also found that the paint job can take 2, 3 or 4x's longer than originally quoted. Collectively known as " paint jail"...

That was a bargain at free, no matter when. Thats a $2000 car now! 😉

When I unplug harnesses, I use painters tape. Forst connection gets tagged "A" on both side then so on. Double letters after 26 Have you lined up a paint shop yet? If not, I wouldn't start disassembly just yet

Typically if they are flood damaged, they say "water flood". Fresh water only worries me as far as the interior stinking or the motor full of water. Salt water is a whole other thing!

Good to see you around Jerry!

Did you see this one? https://www.copart.com/lot/62323571 Look at the hood!! If the hood looks like that, you know what the rest of the car looks like. $5,900! For a really rusty 78...

If you add a "factory" style AC unit, no one will know if you dont tell them, because there are no existing build sheets. AC in the early cars was a dealer add on, as mentioned but they all are the same unit. The only problem is they might not cool well enough for you on TX. Somebody else might be able to chime in on that. One of my earlier cars had seats like that, I don't know if that was a dealer ad on or not. Since there are no build sheets, you have some freedom with the car as long as you stay in factory style things. I never worry too much about modification as long as they are easily reversible

Did you do a compression check before disassembling?

Have to be careful about dating that "princess" siteunseen! 😉

Yes, try a crush washer

I wondered if you could move the flex lines up to each side of the switch along with the brake calipers. Put a block of wood in the caliper to prevent blowing the pistons out. then see if they both build pressure there

I not sure that would wash the title. It would still probably be salvage The rules have changed a lot in the last few years. This is getting harder to do

$4600 on approval Probably a good price if its not too rusty

I think I might also. Make sure all the passages are clear

So maybe we can shift gears so to speak. Fully charge the battery. Take the belts off and go for a quick drive! If the noise is gone it's belt driven. If it remains we can rule out belt driven items I wouldn't go more than a couple hundred yards. Just enough to get to the speeds you here the noise at It will overheat if you run it too long!!

Currently $4250 Crosses the block in about 40 minutes. Cant watch it live, in the deer stand

In many states that sticker could be removed, but the title would be branded salvage. Somebody aught to watch the live auction. I suspect the final price will surprise you

With the spring and rubber removed, the slider moves freely. When plated in a tumbler, it moves around enough to plate most of it

Me either 🙂

If the lines from the switch to the caliper are good on both sides, then move upstream. I would suspect the switch next

I looked at that car Shipping would be problematic because of all the parts and the additional vin isn't great, bit if your not too far away it could be good. Although the last few wrecked Zs I've watched or bid on have gone for ridiculous money

So the restriction could be anywhere from the switch to the caliper. You might want to disconnect lines until you find the restriction. You could use air like Zed suggested, just dont blow brake fluid all over your paint. Get spills up quickly

I think for starters, I would pump the brakes a little slower. That allows the fluid to flow without as much vacuum on the system. I might also drop back to the tried and true bleeding method if possible and remove the variables of the speed bleeders

I assume these are 280zx parts then?

@One Way John, Would any of these three work for you. Freshly plated but they had some corrosion before they were plated