Patcon

I would not use CA, it could haze the lens

Yup about $55k

I think having a document that shows and describes each fastener would be superb! Perfect candidate for a tech article

I am thinking the choke cables tip the throttles slightly before pulling on the nozzles, iirc. That is why I leave the extra length

Plating is all line of sight basically. So I'm gonna say no. I have some parts that have been plated and if the hinges aren't move around when plated then the shaded area doesn't get plated. So I doubt the tight areas near the rivets will receive any plating. Painting has similar limitations

I wouldn't either. It looks really good!

What about December??? I'm so confused...

When I connect choke cables I do not lift the cable coonection at all other than to make sure they are even to each other. The choke handle moves more but you know they are all the way released when the handle is down

Good to know. I'm sure there are...

Thanks anyway Has any one spoken to Kats? Haven't seen him here in a while...

Have you contacted them to inquire about their process steps? I would expect: Degreasing Pickling - which will remove rust Plating Chromating Possibly a post plating baking to remove nitrogen Some platers might also offer abrasive stripping services. I am planning on using the same plater motorman7 uses. We'll see on the results. They told me all the paint needs to be stripped and rusty parts might be pitted... So I inferred they don't do any abrasive stripping. I have been using the SS media. It actually has a little paint thinner in it from me cleaning it. That helps when tumbling. I wont go to the level you have because I'm not sure it will matter. Pickling tends to dull the metal and can change the surface finish. It all depends on how the plater handles it. I have spoken to TFC also. I would be open to using them too.

Thanks, Alan

I think he makes a lot to order. They show out of stock, you order, then he makes and ships... I have wintergreen oil but I think this one is beyond that. It's flat spotted from not rolling, cracking and super hard. I figure this is one of those places to go new if possible

Any idea what the different numbers on these mean??

So I was pulling plating together today. This window roller is in bad shape. The rubber is rock hard and is flat on one side. So I worked on getting it apart. I crimped the end back closed and got the pin back through. Then the roller came out So then I was like, where am I gonna source a new roller. I wonder if Steve Nixon makes one? Lo and behold! https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/7727245 @nix240z I plan on reusing the tube and expanding it with a long skinny punch

I would prefer to plate everything in house but it is so slow!!! I also just don't have the correct power supplies or large enough ones. So I am going to send a batch out. I will hold back a few things I can do in house that they might mess up. Hoping for good results

I believe the plater will acid dip all the hardware prior to plating. So any residual rust will be removed. Although the cleaner it goes in the cleaner it aught to come out. Also, as a note, I have found that JIS screwdrivers will still easily turn screws with this sort of damage. JIS screwdrivers are the proper screwdrivers for all Nissan screws

The 427 is also really cool! Probably really costly in Europe too

The seam is visible and many times has some small ripples. From memory, rear valance laps over the lower rear quarters

Super! Post up pics when you get it and relevant pricing

Can you provide thread size and pitch? Might only have to source the washers that way...

My 2 cents Go back and review post #6 and give the electrical engineer what he asked for...

The makita is expensive but I have found it very useful. I have used it on multiple cars, my boat and I do glass panels too. I figure it will last a while

Really shouldn't be needed unless you are looking for a reason to buy one

I'll try that, thanks