Patcon

So I have a Harbor Freight blast cabinet. It is probably 15 years old or older. I have wanted to do the Tacoma Company upgrades to it for years but I've never pulled the trigger because the timing was always bad. I finally bought the pieces last month. https://www.tacomacompany.com/ The original cabinet Cut the bars out from under the frame New funnel adapter on bottom of the cabinet Drilled a hole in the left leg for a new air regulator Two new holes for the air and media for the gun Regulator Cut the lower shelf back New box that covers the air intake on the left side of the cabinet Air flow is reversed in this new setup I had to silicone the screws at the glove cuffs because the static from the cabinet would shock the fool out of you Cut the spring steel screen down and wrapped it with metal screening to prevent little parts falling down in the cabinet Added a foot pedal for the cabinet versus a hand trigger New gloves inside and a fresh piece of glass I have a switch on top that cuts the LED's on in the cabinet and start a vacuum that sits outside the shop door I finally got the air all hooked up today. It's a totally different cabinet now!! I can see and it cuts really quickly. I have some new Bufferfly screws for a quick change glass setup

I wanted to plot the pdf larger but I couldn't get it to let me select a different paper size. Is there a way on your end to make it where I could plot it as a "C" size drawing?

Warp the stainless trim. If it gets curved or warped, it is very difficult to get it to lay down right in the new weatherstrip

I might. Id have to look this weekend

I use a razor to temove the trim. Don't try to remove it from an old weatherstrip otherwise or you will warp it

What year is your car? You should be able to move the clutch release lever by hand slightly. If it has a return spring, remove it first. If it's an adjustable slave cylinder, make slightly looser. Also before you do anything, you could crack open the bleed screw on the slave. If a little fluid squirts out the system is holding pressure. It should drip but not come out under pressure

I would suspect that the clutch arm is too long. You shouldn't have to depress the arm at all to hook it up!

Old planes 🙂

Yes, I believe that's where I got it

I like to use piece of unjacketed aircraft cable for this, maybe 1/8" or 3/16". Put a lot of carb cleaner down the line. Let it sit for a while and then feed the cable in. Chuck it up in a cordless drill and spin to help brush out the inside of the line. When I can feed it end to end with out interference, it's good. You could get a compressed air tank and air it up inside your place. Then use it to blow out the lines.

Yes, here #117

I really struggle with sorting the hardware. I just don't know it well enough anymore

I have two build threads We coated my sons header for his 510. My stainless header from Sean is so pretty, I hate to coat it

Also long as they're long enough to have enough sticking out to grab and unthread. I guess you could err on the long side and trim them if it's a problem. 5" seems excessive I did not coat my stainless header. I might if it seems too hot under the hood but probably not

It will be easier to separate them if the engine tilts down some. But if you don't support it, the valve cover will hit the firewall. Many people recommend getting two sacrificial bolts that match the transmission bolts. Then grind the heads off. You hand thread them into the block to act as alignment dowels when you remate them

I did... I would install it loose and then when you like how it fits tighten everything up. I used exhaust paste. I don't think I would do that again unless I had a leak! I haven't found anything that will dissolve the exhaust paste. I think a paint stripper with MEK would be necessary or a chisel. And chisels and prett SS exhaust don't mix. So hopefully I don't have to take it apart anytime soon. I made my hanger pieces after I had the exhaust in the way I wanted it. The tabs on the muffler help to get it oriented the right way. Check the exhaust tip and make sure it is correct. I had to tweak mine so the bevel cut looked correct and plumb

As an aside, how hard was it to get the car up on the 2x4 block towers?

I'm not totally sure. I would expect the input that makes it click is switched power. It might be switched ground. I would expect 4 wires on the relay. Power in and out on the coil. Power in and out for the solenoid. So the solenoid "in"aught to have 12v when the ignition is on. If it doesn't the relay closing isn't goint to do anything. If it does have power, then when the relay closes you should have similar voltage on the solenoid "out". If not the relay contacts are fouled. Maybe Zed or someone can elaborate with terminals and wire colors

Did you check voltage at the input and output of the relay when "clicked" and "not clicked"?

I have bought many things from Zcardepot. I have found their service and website to be very good!

I believe the Jenvey's will bolt right up but not positive. You could email Redline and ask. I believe they sell Jenvey's

Welcome! Why dont you provide some personal background and your experience with wrenches? I would have advised you to buy the exterior door handle off Amazon if you didn't. I bought a matched pair recently. They look great and they were cheap. If your going to try to fuel it from a can then both supply and return lines will need to go into it. I probably wouldn't try to start it without cleaning or replacing all the chassis fuel lines and disassembling the fuel rail and testing the injectors. If the injectors are good and the rail is full of varnish you will ruin them trying to start it up. I would also start with verifying the fuel pressure regulator is good and works appropriately You are correct, there is no dipstick on the manual trans

Even if a relay closes that doesn't mean the contacts are passing power or don't have high resistance

@Matthew Abate Could you 3d print a new case and scavenge the rocker and guts from a donor switch?