Patcon

It use to have a piece of fiberglass batt insulation glued to it to prevent heat gain from the car body

Ok, I solved the second one https://www.amazon.com/OAUTOO-165pcs-Assortment-Chrysler-Toyota/dp/B0C5VB83XN/ref=asc_df_B0C5VB83XN?mcid=52195ebd89f3349f9f7232da7174862d&hvocijid=13820313418102357919-B0C5VB83XN-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13820313418102357919&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010452&hvtargid=pla-2281435179258&psc=1 Any ideas on the first problem??

I have two problems I need help with: The first is a leaking speedo cable. When I filled the transmission it took more than a quart and a half to overflow the fill plug hole. The speedo cable was leaking a few weeks ago right at the large cable nut. So I wrapped the junction with Teflon tape. That worked for a while but now I believe it is leaking out my heat shrink seals at the end of the cable. One concern I have is not having the oil travel up the cable and leak out from under the dash like somebody was posting about in the past. I don't recall how that got resolved. Any suggestions for dealing with this leak? The second issue, is where to source the little plastic pieces that lock the various bars into the door lock mechanisms?

Got tires this week

I've never heard of those batteries before! Pricy but for a classic car it might be the last one you need...

So a quick update... I finally got the doors seals last week. They have to be signed for and nobody was ever around and I was having a hard time getting a re-delivery lined up. Anyway, I got them and put them on last Saturday. They are really nice!!! I had the precision seals and you really have to slam the doors. The new seals are nice and very soft. The door closes really nicely now. You do have to be careful when tucking the seal into the windlace that you use a dull enough tool as they will rip if you're not careful. Also one of my upper corners is coming apart but I will reglue it. It is much easier to do if you have some help. The seal wants to come back out of the windlace if you don't have someone there to hold it for you. Overall, really pleased and well worth the money!

@motorman7 I think I paid about $150 for mine on Amazon

I would "vacuum " that out with an electric fuel pump. Then analyze what you take out for a diagnosis...

I would try an induction heater on the manifold and flare nut wrenches. I would probably heat it, soak it, heat it, soak it, then heat it and try to unthread them. I have gotten things apart with my induction heater I thought would never come apart!!

Maybe the crap in the tank is too large to pass through the filter screen in the tank. It just blocks it up instead

I would use a small electric fuel pump and some hose sections and maybe a small tube section and pump it out into another container. Diesels can get algae in the tank but I've never heard of that in a gasoline car...

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=datsun+240z+su+carbs&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_sop=16 https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=datsun+240z+su+carbs&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_sop=16&rt=nc&LH_Sold=1&LH_Complete=1

I like foil tape. I use it a lot at work. It sticks really well and is nice and malleable

Modern cars tend to run a little lean at cruise. You just have to be careful. Too lean will burn valves and damage pistons

Foil tape doesn't hold paint well. It might if it doesn't move much

I do not know if the afr number to the fuel supply is directly relatable I dont believe a super lean afr is 0 fuel and pig rich is an Afr of 1. Its a ratio so an afr of 1, is 1 part air to 1 part fuel. How is each part measured? What is the unit? Stoic is 14.7:1 So if you're at 16:1 your fuel needs to go up by 8.8% I believe, maybe, possibly...

Not that I know of. It would give you an idea of where the stations need to change and whether a little or a lot but I dont think you can calculate exact station size required from wide band afr numbers. You would also need a visual reference for piston height (station being metered) at a given AFR. There are quite a few SU needles available with station sizes but like tuning webers there is some educated guesswork

No way to remove that, that I know of. The discoloration is normally caused by delamination of the plastic layer in the middle from one of the pieces of glass. If most of it will be covered I would install it. I wouldn't use a sealant unless the windshield leaks. If it does, you should be able to pry up the edge and squirt it under at the leak locations

I believe one switch has two wires and the only one

@nix240z Steve, Did you ever reproduce these?

I think its easier to put the glass in first

Question: I ordered the S30 door weatherstrips. They should be here shortly. Do they get glued on or does the windlace hold it well enough?

I don't think it will matter if the OD and ID are correct

I tried to find the screws I bought but I can't locate them and I can't find the Amazon order. I'm sure I ordered them from Amazon. Stainless screws. Some of them are surprisingly long. I don't know size or pitch

The testers normally seal just like the radiator cap which seals the port to the overflow tank