Patcon

That depends. I believe there are 3 unique caps in the L28. The middle cap, the rear cap and the other common caps. You need to know which one is missing and then have it line bored with all the caps installed

One of my thoughts is good donors in Aussie might be hard to come by. They're hard to come by where I'm at much less there...

Why not just source a cap and line bore? Its way cheaper than those caps

My car has similar damage. I had it checked for being square and level on a frame rack. I dollied some of the wrinkled metal but its impossible to fix it all without removing the radiator support. In the end I dont care that much. I won't be able to see it from the drivers seat and it wont affect anything else

330-400hp is an expensive proposition in these cars. It takes a good bit of money to build that kind of motor. Then you have drivetrain and brake upgrades. Ends up requiring a pretty big budget

I know of nowhere to buy new caps. You'll have to find a donor and then line bore the engine. Caps are machined for one location in one motor only

Yes, we started in the middle bottom and finished on top near my hands in those pics. We just did the trim by hand before we set the glass. Wasn't really a problem

Its gonna need a lot of metal work but I have seen a number of these sell for 5k or more

I don't know but it does sort of have that kind of shape. It also has a similar profile, thicker at the top like the back of the tang and thin on the bottom like the blade edge

Today we did the windshield now that I have all the stainless ready It's always surprising how much encouragement rubber seals take to get into the right place such a fine balance between force and broken glass!

Yesterday we put the rear quarter windows in. They can be quite interesting. The seals came from Datsport in Aus, Baz is the only supplier as far as I know. They can vary some in length because the accute corner angles are made by hand. We finally figured out it works best to start with the really sharp upper corner. Work your way down and around the bottom. Get the top in from the upper corner about 6". Then finish on the rounder upper rear corner. it would be really easy to break a corner off of these.

is it accurate?

They can be harmless but in my part of the country they do incredible damage to houses. Destroying wooden siding, fascia boards and trim. I don't mind them as long as they don't eat my house. You eat my house, then it's on...

So I should've taken pictures first!! Sometimes I get "tunnel vision"... The lower windshield trim on Cody's car was bashed in about 8" or 9" wide right in the middle of the windshield. It was so caved it it was concave instead of convex. So I had reached out to the forum to source this trim. @Terrapin Zhad responded with a good source for it, but we may have a lead on a parts car and I hate the idea of buying a new set of trim and then ending up with a parts car on top of that! So I figured I didn't have anything to lose by trying to straighten what I had... So off to YouTube All the videos on YouTube are pretty much dealing with vintage American cars. The trim on these cars is so much thicker and heavier than our Datsun trim. I wasn't really very hopeful.. So out came the tools So an assortment of punches, a body hammer and a flat file. A finer file would have been a plus. So I started dollying the dents out of the back of the trim. The main tool I used was the brass punch that I shaved the edges off of. I used it from the back of the trim on a piece of leather and chucked up into the vise as an anvil. I made pretty good progress but could get the convex shape back in the trim. So I shaped a little diviot in a 1x4 and used that as a buck and dollied the trim against the divot with the brass punch. Lot's of little light strikes, hundreds... So at this point the shape is pretty close but not smooth. So here comes the file. Now our trim is super thin! So you are very limited on how much filing you can do. If you cut through it, the trim is pretty much ruined. I filed till it was pretty smooth and then I used a sharpie to mark the backside of the spots that needed more work. Then a little more filing. Then I started sanding the front to try to get rid of the filing marks. A finer file would have made this easier. I used the end of the 1x4 to rest the trim on while sanding. I had to have a helper hold the trim while I sanded and you have to use a good bit of pressure because the trim is really hard. So then I buffed it a low speed with a first and second cut You have to be really careful buffing this stuff, because the buffer will take it away from you in a heartbeat. So I was really pleased with the results. There are still some file scratches in the piece that I could probably remove with more sanding work but they are only visible if you get really close. So I buffed it at low speed with a first and second buff. It's hard to see the flaws in the trim with the cell phone camera but it is very presentable Here is the damaged area from the back, and yes it is that rough and a pristine rear section Overall really pleased!! Once it's in the weatherstrip, only about half of it shows so it should serve the purpose for now and we can keep moving forward

I've got some on delivery for like Wednesday. A tennis racket works great. Also carpenter bees return to where they were born. So ignore them at your own risk. One of my sheds seems to attract them badly. We'll see how the new traps work. They weren't real cheap!

I am gonna post some links. There was some good info in there too. The engineers seem to agree, welding the hard surface is not a great option https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=254331 https://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=314909

#11811 fairly low number

The concern about heat treat is what exactly?

That's great progress!

Or blind????

I hope that tree is empty by Christmas!! Lol We do have a TIG rig. I could go ask our welding rep

I think these are in order. Rotating clockwise I assume trying to MIG these back up won't work because they're hardened...

No joy!! Small gear seems to match Middle gear would probably work, but the slider we have has 37 external teeth versus 36 and 36 Internal teeth versus 30. It also looks like it has a different construction...

My first suspect would be tensioner. Either damaged, no or low oil flow. New cam bar may exacerbate an already marginal oil system?

I think a fair price for steel wheels with the correct build date? I would say over $100 a wheel. With tires add another $100 a wheel. If you could buy them shipped cross country for a $1000 or less than I would buy them. You are not very likely to find another set