Patcon

Was it the fuel pump?

Do you have any shielding between the hot header and the carbs?

Who did you use?

Do you have a heat shield installed? Where are you located?

Those kinds of parts are difficult to plate. Inside corners tend to be the real issue. It looks good. I use a heat gun to dry parts and set the color. It also helps to prevent drip stains

I like to use smaller wires for stringing. The larger ones can cause shadowing problems. I will strip some multi strand cable and use one or a few fine strands to string fasteners. Depending on fastener size

Those fasteners look really good! I had 2 used Caswell heaters for a while. They eventually died. I am using a large glass aquarium heter currently but it doesn't get quite warm enough. I have considered using a digital temp controller and an element

@sfm6s524 That's a really nice looking setup! Love the top to keep the tanks clean! Post up some pictures of what your getting. Maybe we can remotely trouble shoot. Be careful with brightener. I have added too much at times and I believe it resulted in blistering. You have to filter the tank if that happens to reduce the organics.

@Nat0z Sorry, I didn't see your post back in April. Some how it never showed up in my feed. I have also gotten better results with more current and when I use my barrel plater setup, I can run out of current if I'm not careful. I have a larger power supply but haven't tried it yet. That being said, I think your plating times are too short and your current too high. When my plating results are really good, the parts come out of the zinc looking like chrome. Really shiny, silver plate and generally takes 5-8 minutes for a batch of bolts. I looked for a picture of an example but couldn't find one. What makes the difference between shiny and a flatter grey color is the particle size. You want zinc transfer at a rate that doesn't push too hard. When you add a lot of current you add a lot of "pressure" to the particle transfer. My understanding is that causes larger particles to be transferred, which means the surface isn't as smooth. So less reflective. Also watch out for unevenness in the zinc color and areas that blacken. That is also an indication that current is too high and burning your zinc. Do you have any more results? Did you get your chromates?

Or you could install the 5 speed and use a four speed knob. Most people would never know the difference!

I was looking at reusing what I have but a fresh one would be better

What is the cost of the milled M27?

Are the ribbing just a function of the print process?

Yes, I believe they are original C

I had the same gold stickers in mine too. They didn't go back. I also had the fully dis-assemblable joints

Then, I would run them. Just my opinion...

I have the ratchet in M12. It works good but then you have 2 kinds of batteries. they make it in M18 too but it's a lot bulkier

Do they have visible cracking in the sidewalls?

$30k with 6 days to go? I suspect a lot higher!

I switched to M18 tools for all my work tools a while back. Overall, really nice. The batteries are expensive

Costs?

Conedoger I believe...

My point was what Zkars said, hose diameter is what matters for air tools, not PSI rating. A small diameter hose doesn't feed a sufficient volume of air for an impact wrench. Sort of like breathing through a straw. 250 Ft/Lbs is probably optimistic. Probably need a better impact. If the engines in the car try Zkars idea

What impact did you already try? What size hose? How much air pressure and volume?

I would be careful about adding waxes and grease to polish your raw metal! Some platers get really upset with contaminants on the parts. Also it could affect finished plating. I wouldn't bat an eye at plating any of those parts. I have done some plating in my shop and have found the parts to be nice and shiny if they are prepped to the level you already have.