Patcon

I believe SM's are the standard needle. I don't know if they are all stamped. If the float level is right and holding then needles would be my first suspect

Have you verified which needles you have and that they are in good condition?

That's what I suspected. No concern about damaging threads if I don't deal with the rebuild punch marks and try to turn it off?

Carl, I hope you're doing well! Merry Xmas

Possibly but I would have gone with a helicoil which would have preserved the factory sized fastener. There is nothing on a classic Z more frustrating than finding an SAE fastener mixed in there...typically after you cross thread it somewhere else

I don't think the fire is supposed to come out that end!

So you used a 3/8" tap on a Japanese car??

The faux captian obvious has that running pretty good up near 100+

I couldn't get the link to work

How would deal with the punched spot? I thought I would drill it out some to make it thin and then try to thread it off...

I would prefer the engine bay paint color. Undercoating in the wheel wells doesn't bother me. I do prefer to select my own gear. Although the auto's may become more valuable in the future. I wouldn't scrap any auto parts!

X Main Shaft Nut Datsun Nissan FS5W71B FS5C71B Overdrive & F5C71B Direct Drive 5-Speed 32354-A7400 32354-E9800 32354-E9802 32354-E9804 I think I'm gonna need to find one of these or get it made. Can someone provide a cross reference for what vehicles these would have been in. Do the 4 speeds have this nut? they don't do they?

When we talked to Dave last night we came up with a loose plan. We are gonna build a 2150cc motor. He didn't see a reason to try to go to the 2360cc motor. So we will use the Z20 rods and some KA24DE pistons cut down. Rebello will supply the pistons but I may need him to help with the machine work too. I want to be able to run AC so that means a double row main pulley. Dave said the 240z water pump will fit in the L20 timing cover. I will verify that this weekend. We will have to adjust the alternator to line up but it evidently doesn't take a lot to accomplish. He also recommended running a lighter flywheel. He use to get the 12#ers from Nissan I believe. I found one at one of the vendors that is a 12# Z flywheel (Zcardepot). I believe it will fit but will verify this weekend. We are looking to make 185-200 Hp in the finished motor. We will run the SU's we currently have to start with. Might switch to an EFI system at some point.

Gonna start this thread for Cody's motor build. We have 2 - L20b blocks. They were missing the timing covers. The one we started with was the better looking of the two. The second one looks like it has sat outside for a while. The crank snout on the worse one is really rusted. So I bought the 6" inch "long" rods from Nissan. I spoke to Dave Rebello about a year ago and he recommended I get the Z20 rods. I've had these for about a year. Evidently these can be hard to get in reasonably closely weighted sets. 152.45mm rods So the plan for right now is to build the long block and move the current head and head studs over to it. The current L16 head has been freshly redone. Then when Cody has saved up some money we will select a head to send to Dave and have him work it, the cam and all the valve train up. Then swap it on.... We have 5-6 heads to choose from. I will need help from Dave to pick the right direction This is the block we're working with 2 cylinders are ugly! And 2 look pretty good. This was why we could rotate the engine. Even with a BFH. These corroded bores shouldn't be an issue because we're punching to 89mm. This block and crank measures to be uncut and untutrned Here are the rods and pistons. None of these will be reused Here is the crank. Complete with @Captain Obvious s specially fabricated turning tool

We double checked, reverse idler is 23 teeth. Is it possible it was replaced with the wrong part? It appears this tranny has had work. The rear staked nut is also peened Also that nut is a standard threading (RH)

That was my thought too when I saw the photo

Ok, So Beverly Hills Auto evidently has no shame and plenty of brass!!! I would be ashamed to ask that kind of money for that car....

I agree. I believe they are interchangeable although the 280z fender may have mounting points for the fender liner that the earlier cars don't have (UIM)

We counted twice but I will count them again. I will also take some time to pin down the ratios and the year

I was noticing that the 5th had parts that looked like the Porsche synchro

Thanks Chas Thats interesting, I am pretty sure we pulled it from a 280zx. Although it could have been an early one

You are correct Off of memory, it is in the tunnel near the diff

Thanks, Chas I think I follow all of this Also I was checking some of the parts numbers in the revised list and found the bearings are NLA from Nissan but obviously available elsewhere and the baulk ring for 5th shows as available as "32604-3N21" My transmission has the metal speedo drive, does that help determine year. Dave WM's had a plastic drive it seems

I am not sure the cap being raised doesn't change the spark, making ignition easier, but that is above my paygrade.

there were 4 completed ads on Ebay searching by "Datsun Mikuni". The similar 44's brought like $2200 without the air filters but included the intake. So not an unreasonable number provided they aren't too varnished up Look at my previous post