Patcon

You can pull your own kit together. Really not that hard

If I needed needles it would be Ztherapy

I didn't check them all because that seemed moot. But the 5th gear and 1st gear were spot on those ratios. We may start breaking it down next week

I thought this was probably an add on from a previous rebuild to prevent the nut from unwinding. Also, it appears from some late night ratio calculating and a Zcars technical page that this is a 1980 transmission. I have a rebuild kit that says 80-83. Are all the parts going to work? What parts do I need to verify? http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html 1st 3.062 2nd 1.858 3rd 1.308 4th 1.000 5th 0.773

This makes PO's wiring hacks sound like a walk in the park!

Like the Captain said it could be the nozzles too. If you have a couple of good matched sets, you might want to swap out both

Sorry Chas, I was referring to the round punch mark in the nut. It seems pretty deep

Will that 2" narrowing cause any other issues?

5 spd is easy enough to change

I believe SM's are the standard needle. I don't know if they are all stamped. If the float level is right and holding then needles would be my first suspect

Have you verified which needles you have and that they are in good condition?

That's what I suspected. No concern about damaging threads if I don't deal with the rebuild punch marks and try to turn it off?

Carl, I hope you're doing well! Merry Xmas

Possibly but I would have gone with a helicoil which would have preserved the factory sized fastener. There is nothing on a classic Z more frustrating than finding an SAE fastener mixed in there...typically after you cross thread it somewhere else

I don't think the fire is supposed to come out that end!

So you used a 3/8" tap on a Japanese car??

The faux captian obvious has that running pretty good up near 100+

I couldn't get the link to work

How would deal with the punched spot? I thought I would drill it out some to make it thin and then try to thread it off...

I would prefer the engine bay paint color. Undercoating in the wheel wells doesn't bother me. I do prefer to select my own gear. Although the auto's may become more valuable in the future. I wouldn't scrap any auto parts!

X Main Shaft Nut Datsun Nissan FS5W71B FS5C71B Overdrive & F5C71B Direct Drive 5-Speed 32354-A7400 32354-E9800 32354-E9802 32354-E9804 I think I'm gonna need to find one of these or get it made. Can someone provide a cross reference for what vehicles these would have been in. Do the 4 speeds have this nut? they don't do they?

When we talked to Dave last night we came up with a loose plan. We are gonna build a 2150cc motor. He didn't see a reason to try to go to the 2360cc motor. So we will use the Z20 rods and some KA24DE pistons cut down. Rebello will supply the pistons but I may need him to help with the machine work too. I want to be able to run AC so that means a double row main pulley. Dave said the 240z water pump will fit in the L20 timing cover. I will verify that this weekend. We will have to adjust the alternator to line up but it evidently doesn't take a lot to accomplish. He also recommended running a lighter flywheel. He use to get the 12#ers from Nissan I believe. I found one at one of the vendors that is a 12# Z flywheel (Zcardepot). I believe it will fit but will verify this weekend. We are looking to make 185-200 Hp in the finished motor. We will run the SU's we currently have to start with. Might switch to an EFI system at some point.

Gonna start this thread for Cody's motor build. We have 2 - L20b blocks. They were missing the timing covers. The one we started with was the better looking of the two. The second one looks like it has sat outside for a while. The crank snout on the worse one is really rusted. So I bought the 6" inch "long" rods from Nissan. I spoke to Dave Rebello about a year ago and he recommended I get the Z20 rods. I've had these for about a year. Evidently these can be hard to get in reasonably closely weighted sets. 152.45mm rods So the plan for right now is to build the long block and move the current head and head studs over to it. The current L16 head has been freshly redone. Then when Cody has saved up some money we will select a head to send to Dave and have him work it, the cam and all the valve train up. Then swap it on.... We have 5-6 heads to choose from. I will need help from Dave to pick the right direction This is the block we're working with 2 cylinders are ugly! And 2 look pretty good. This was why we could rotate the engine. Even with a BFH. These corroded bores shouldn't be an issue because we're punching to 89mm. This block and crank measures to be uncut and untutrned Here are the rods and pistons. None of these will be reused Here is the crank. Complete with @Captain Obvious s specially fabricated turning tool

We double checked, reverse idler is 23 teeth. Is it possible it was replaced with the wrong part? It appears this tranny has had work. The rear staked nut is also peened Also that nut is a standard threading (RH)

That was my thought too when I saw the photo