Patcon

I think you will get the best results if you go ahead and pull some of the loose ends together. I would think putting the best dash in and getting the best transmission in would go a long way. I think many of the current buyers that have cash arent into working on their cars as much as some of the longer term Datsun people are

I agree check the valve train first. Make sure all the valves have some lash

There is some bracketry inside the tank so you will need to avoid those pieces. I think if I were going to cut on the top side. I would make a fairly big access hole. Doesn't matter to me if I weld a 6" patch back in or a 12' patch. It's about the same difference...

Many cars aren't well timed when it's near the middle of the slot. You could always loosen the screw a little and use a leather glove to rotate the distributor while cranking to see if you can get a little better result

Also make sure the key & slot are on top when installing the damper. Not to the side like the last picture shows

That'll make your eyes water!

It looks substantially under sized at the pulley area?

What damper did you buy?

I still suspect valve cover

Guessing... When starting off from idle, the car is not at idle, more like 1200-1400 rpms when releasing the clutch. Leaving the enrichment, makes the off idle engagement more stable. Also most people dont lug around in gear near 1400 rpms so it ends up being a narrow section of the power band that stays enriched but really is only used transitionally

Both are excellent ideas

Also if the air is really wet, the dessicant filter will get saturated quickly. Typically the beads inside will be pink when wet. I dry my desiccant in the oven on 200f until they are dark blue. Then reuse them

Prices seem all over the place. I found a 67k red black car in Colorado for $8400! Seems like a scam when everything else is $13, $19, $22k....

I tried to log in at Hagerty and look but was unsuccessful. I would start there. You could also look at completed Ebay auctions to see what similar cars are actually selling for. I suspect the upcharge for the special edition is not exorbitant so other similar condition cars should be a good reference point

When drying air, remember the air is hot coming out of the compressor. The smaller the compressor, the hotter it is. It needs distance to cool. More line or hose will help. You need a regulator at the gun to make sure you can get the gun set properly. You can also run a couple of loops of hose through a cooler full of ice. Then put a water trap right after the cooler. Then a desiccant dryer right near the gun. You need good dry air or you'll struggle to get good results. It sort of looks like a water spit to me but it can be hard to tell remotely

What is your air source? How are you drying it?

So easy to do suspension work when you can spin the car!

Don't get rid of the radio, even if it doesn't work! They are getting quite valuable and there are people out there who rebuild them.

Pumping SUs really doesn't help without the starter spinning. There is no accelerator pump in an SU like many classic cars had

I would pull that tank and check it before I put fuel in it! 50/50 it holds fuel, maybe less

Or the tension arms from the lower control arm. Proper name is currently escaping me...

The ballast resistor reduces the current the points in the distributor see. They last longer that way. Main fuse box is in the center console. Only other over current devices are the fuseable links. If the battery is charged it will start and run without the alternator or most any of the lights

I agree with others, dont go chopping on anything. Find the thread on "waking the sleeping beast". Work through those steps before attempting to start it. Also its best not to start multiple threads. It makes it hard for others to help you

Surprising how much it changed

I didn't have the space to hang 40 odd pieces and still move around them to paint...