Patcon

It is surprising they will function in that condition. There are pretty tough overall

So 2 years is a 50% increase...

Steve makes all these parts by hand. If you order one he will probably cast it just for you or make several for inventory. Send him an email

Courtesy shows them at $29.57

Some of those sections are quite interesting. Some dont have much room on top Do you know which sections are intake valves and which are exhaust?

Yes! Think, spindle pins...

Nice solid car! Looks like it has a little damage on the left rear wheel arch and the rear corner. Beware, those rear corners are paper thin!

I just did some of those garage door drives in the house we just finished. They are really quiet!! I like them a lot.

How did that affect running or not? My intuition would have suggested the same thing

I have worked on it some this year. Mainly blocking panels. I need to post up my current progress. I've been hurt for much of the year and work has been busy, so progress slows down or stops. If I can get it painted things should pick up

Yes, yes it will!

I would seal them all up! Even the accordion boot. If it ever needs to come out you'll be able to break it loose. Even gaps on the passenger side can cause cabin fumes

I wouldn't build an engine that I didn't have the block machined. Not a lot of cost difference in honing or boring. You'll probably be buying pistons anyway so no additional cost there... I understand wanting to keep the matching block in car but I wouldn't pause one bit about punching it out to a safe size. All that being said, power is made in doing head work over minimal displacement increases

I knew they were long. I have 2 on hand, just didn't know how they compared. Would be interesting to see how the ld28 intake affected torque with the long runners

Why are you opposed to boring your block?

How does the LD28 intake runner size compare to what you have now?

You are correct

L20a rods are gonna be scarce. It is a popular motor for the Datsun 510 crowd. Also the short rod is probably going to give you a bad crank/rod ratio. Longer rods are generally preferred. I think jonbill is right, look for pistons with a shorter pin height

I considered trimming it too. There is a chrome finishing strip that covers the edge. I will take a shot at using the full lip with some steel plate for weights. I will trim it if I have too but I'd hate to mess it up. Most of these seals came out of Australia

So will you replace the intake? TBI? or leave it alone?

Cool! Can you post up a summary of the engine specs and build in one post?

I have done a great many searches on Ebay that have super overpriced offerings. I have found this when I sort from high price to low. Sometimes its faster find what Im looking for this way. My suspicion is these offerings are for laundering money using Ebay and PayPal. Nothing else really made sense

Thanks I was thinking so too. It's gonna be difficult to get installed that way but I will figure something out

That's what happens when you have too many projects and a big family. I am also doing all my own body and paint work. I have a build thread here on the forum

So here is the rear inner hatch seal. This is thee flange area on the top three sides of the car I believe this is the proper orientation on the top three sides So this is one way to do the lower section of the seal But i really think it aught to be like this but this will make it harder to install because the seal wants to stand up