Patcon

You just need to win that one. They crimped it so it should come uncripped

My first concern isn't crud in the tank if it's been coated. My first concern is you have a stopped up fuel or return line or the tank pick up is clogged with tank sealer

No idea. Would be surprised if its published anywhere. I dont think they really expected the part to be serviced. Maybe you could interpolate a value based on the bolt size and threads

Look in wheees build thread. He did all of that. the results seem excellent

why do you need to cut the head off? I would take a flat head and pry it open

I dont like doing that because you can over fill or underfill the bowls. If you add the baby bottle before the fuel pump it checks the whole system at once

I guess one of the unknowns for US buyers would be whether it was registerable or not. South Carolina is pretty flexible but many other states are not, and even here I'm not sure I could register it. Still an interesting idea though. and guess what???? No rust!! That makes it super unique right there!

I would get a small container that is suitable. Fill it with fuel and feed the carbs out of that. That will help isolate the problem. If it goes away, it's in the tank or supply lines. If it doesn't it's mostly from the fuel filter forward. We'll use a gatorade bottle with some holes in the lid for fuel line. Don't leave fuel in it long term. Some plastics will melt!

No red loktite!!! I wouldn't even use blue. It's redundant...

If you look at the face (hex) side closely and you can just see the dimples at third spacing. That makes the nut self locking. Yes, they are supposed to be reuseble

The fender might be salvageable if it was a super rare item, don't.... Just replace that and the bucket Look for damage really closely around the top of the radiator support. The fender looks moved in a little. Not the end of he world but will make panel alignment frustrating if it's not dealt with

Sad, The car really does nothing for me. between the Viscous limited slip and the recaros you can probably gt $2,500. the rest of the car is being thrown in for free... Just remember the the viscous diff has unique driveshafts. don't buy one without the other!!

That's an interesting list. Would be interesting, at least to me, to sort it by cheapest to maintain. I love a number of those cars but several of them can nickel and dime you to death. For instance, I suspect maintenance on a twin turbo M-B engine gets pricey real quick even if you bought it cheap! Sorry for the thread jack Steve

4.77!! Thats stout!

That's good progress. It's time consuming work

I guess my question on all of this is what is M speeds agreement with the manufacturer? is there a clear cut line that forbids the manufacturer from selling these through another venue. Is approval required for the factory to sell these are not. This has been one of the problems with mainland manufacturing for some time. They require foreigners to build plants with domestic contractors and domestic engineers. Then they go down the road and build a duplicate plant to generate copy cat products. This was a huge problem with top level golf clubs for a while, as an example

That's a nice compressor!!!

I would not try to use thicker metal for patch panels. It makes the welding more difficult It is much easier to get a donor roof panel. That panel is hard to replicate without an english wheel and some experience

Do not overheat your panels!!! They will warp

Aircraft stripper has been reformulated. Doesnt work as good as the old stuff

I have an assortment of die grinders with different bits. a cut off wheel can help knock welds down. 1" roloks work good but wear out fast. I also have an assortment of rasp bits for die grinders that work good too

I would expect way , more than $500 for metal repairs! and that's doing it all yourself. I also wouldn't make any panel that is commercially available! A stamped panel is harder and will make a better repair. Also if the metal work isn't done really well it really hurts the value of the car. Don't scrimp on this part!!

If you use a good epoxy primer it can sit a long time before top coating. It will need to be scuffed before top coating but the epoxy will not have to be removed. Epoxy is the best choice but you need the proper safety equipment to spray it.

Very nice! Does it hold up to being closed onto the harness?

Rich, What did you do to harness holders in the engine bay? Original? Redone?