Patcon

Yes, I had considered using that EFI when we ditch the carbs. Provided it will flow enough air. I might have it extruded honed. What motor was it off of again? Good point on the heavier clutch but we'll be making more power so a larger surface area seems to make sense. I plan on using a lighter flywheel so the net weight should be better. I will run a two row main pulley so we can run AC in the car. We have a factory AC setup when we get to it. Dave put us onto all of this when I told him I wanted to run AC. He mentioned we would have to move the alternator to make it all line up.

We did verify that 240z water pump fits the L20b timing cover. The flywheel also fits. Is there any reason we cant use a 240z flywheel and clutch set up?

@SteveJ It would be interesting for him or you to start a thread for him. Post up some before and afters. It really needed a lot of work. It had been sitting in the grass for years and that really destroys the underside

It did. This is her original Z. She put a load of miles on it. I looked at it and viewed it as a parts car too. Times have changed... As far as I know she still has her red 280z

It looks great! And I know what he started with!!

You can pull your own kit together. Really not that hard

If I needed needles it would be Ztherapy

I didn't check them all because that seemed moot. But the 5th gear and 1st gear were spot on those ratios. We may start breaking it down next week

I thought this was probably an add on from a previous rebuild to prevent the nut from unwinding. Also, it appears from some late night ratio calculating and a Zcars technical page that this is a 1980 transmission. I have a rebuild kit that says 80-83. Are all the parts going to work? What parts do I need to verify? http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html 1st 3.062 2nd 1.858 3rd 1.308 4th 1.000 5th 0.773

This makes PO's wiring hacks sound like a walk in the park!

Like the Captain said it could be the nozzles too. If you have a couple of good matched sets, you might want to swap out both

Sorry Chas, I was referring to the round punch mark in the nut. It seems pretty deep

Will that 2" narrowing cause any other issues?

5 spd is easy enough to change

I believe SM's are the standard needle. I don't know if they are all stamped. If the float level is right and holding then needles would be my first suspect

Have you verified which needles you have and that they are in good condition?

That's what I suspected. No concern about damaging threads if I don't deal with the rebuild punch marks and try to turn it off?

Carl, I hope you're doing well! Merry Xmas

Possibly but I would have gone with a helicoil which would have preserved the factory sized fastener. There is nothing on a classic Z more frustrating than finding an SAE fastener mixed in there...typically after you cross thread it somewhere else

I don't think the fire is supposed to come out that end!

So you used a 3/8" tap on a Japanese car??

The faux captian obvious has that running pretty good up near 100+

I couldn't get the link to work

How would deal with the punched spot? I thought I would drill it out some to make it thin and then try to thread it off...

I would prefer the engine bay paint color. Undercoating in the wheel wells doesn't bother me. I do prefer to select my own gear. Although the auto's may become more valuable in the future. I wouldn't scrap any auto parts!