Patcon

This can be a mixed blessing. Sometimes cooling welds can cause shrinkage and warping of panels. I use to do that but I have gotten to where I move around on the car. I come back when the welds are cool enough to touch

They $3500 is equal to about $25k now but thats based on published federal inflation numbers which are low. I would say closer to 40k. So not too far off, considering the complexity of a modern car

Thats a nice old Kawasaki!

I had one once that I couldn't get out. Even chained between two trees with a come a long

Good looking shop! I like the mini-x. I've been shopping for one of those The glass doors on the end are a good idea. No flack for not having rails at those openings?

Lumber prices are crazy right now and have a serious impact on me and my business. I really don't know how you could bid projects and protect yourself from these crazy prices. I saw an article a while back that estimated the typical framing package has increased by $12k from just a few months ago!!

What he said ^^^!

I would think a good buffing compound and a rotary buffer would take care of the lines

So good to see you around Jim. Will miss seeing everyone at Zcon...I would be in for at least 2 grids, maybe 3 @Dave WM I think I would want a solvant based product and in enough bulk to use a touch up spray gun

So the video addresses my other question. How was it silk screened when the glass curves in dimensions? Evidently it was screened first and then heated and formed. I was watching somebody using flexible screens to decorate glasses. I wonder if you could order a screen that would flex enough to regrid the glass. In my mind I was thinking you would strip off all the old grid, buff it and then rescreen it. That eliminates the need to line up exactly with the old grid...

Do anyone know how the process was originally done? Seems that would help come up with a replacement process @HS30-H

I'm with Mark, I would have already started it. I have always been under the impression that you should start it and hold it at fast idle for a period of time to break the cam in????

I understand, I have bought a number of datsun items out of Australia

I would go through zed findings or tabco. If you are having trouble with Tabco, maybe somebody on the forum would ship them to you. MSA normaly marks the panels up pretty good. Other better places to spend money than there

I would think you could find better sources for all the metal your are looking at from MSA I would go epoxy. It's tough and I have never heard of issues. stored inside or not

Or metal screws with a plastic or rubber washer. Should prevent noises and protect the panel

I agree! Find an earlier car as a donor

I think a choice like that is a good idea. A really wide pan head philips would probably be my choice

What is your plan for fasteners into the riv nuts

I really like the new miata's. I would have liked to have seen more power in them though. If they made 200-225 they could really compete against some upper level cars

My advice for this car would be to find a good frame rail cut from a donor car. You could use a reproduction rail but I think a good OEM cut would make a better repair and if done properly would be nearly invisible. This car is worth the effort

Are you referring to the shank that starts at the bottom of the plastic ball? I believe the ball is molded to it. It should unthread with the ball if you get the locknut loose

True but the hatch vent clips are much much simpler. These little finisher panel clips are quite intricate and need to be really tough and exact to work properly

If you are trying to compare your Z plugs to a modern cars plugs, dont. Modern car ignitions are much, much stronger and need to be respected. They can put you on the ground. The hotter ignition helps the plugs stay cleaner and they tend to be whiter

They should thread off. Open end wrench on the flats of the ball joint. Flare nut wrench on the lock nut. Maybe a little penetrating oil, little prayer. Then turn it loose. Once the locknut is loose the bolt joint should unthread. You should measure first so you can reassemble to the correct length. Double check the threads direction. I believe they are lefty loosy but maybe not