Patcon

Thanks for the feedback. I would say 10k is not out of line but I would have high expectations at that price. I'm not surprised by the timetable being off too. It seems like every car I hear about takes longer to paint than expected. Has it really been 3 years already???

Ouch!!! That may take a while to be 100%.

#4095 but clean and pretty. Will be interesting to see the results on the other one true mileage unknown believed to be 103k

Probably not enough to notice. With the proper chokes and jetting it would be hard to tell the difference, I believe

Yes, probably. I am probably low. I have been on n.v the last few examples like this As for the dents, I would get a good paintless dent repair guy to go over the whole car. If I thought the car would age ok as is, I might leave it original and patina'd

Could the OBX unit account for any of this movement. I was thinking they mounted in a way that didn't affect gear lash. Never mind, the OBX is a complete center section. The helicals could be introducing some of that lash. The side movement would still likely be bearings or damaged bearing surfaces. Did you check the fluid yet? Clean? Clear? No silver or filings on the magnet? No grit?

I'll be surprised if it doesn't double from here. Maybe even up to the 50k range

I would sell while the markets still strong. Its likely to change soon. Liking old things is good but losing out on a good market wouldn't be worth it IMO

Too bad I think its gonna have to come out and be gone through

Well, I would say thats too much. I know the axles were available at Rockauto. Some of that looks like too much lash on the ring gear but the up & dn movement on the input sides of the diff looks like bearing tolerances. Looks like you have significant movement at multiple points. Will the shop stand behind the diff?

As a reference point for others, would you be willing to share in round numbers what the paint job cost? It looks good and it's very rare to have a flawless paint job. The good news is a car can be reassembled pretty fast after paint is finished

Doesn't look like it...

The Millermatic should work just fine. It will weld up to 3/8". You will have to get into some big metal to out grow it. Shield gas is a must! I run 0.24" wire. I find it is a little easier to get the current right and requires less current to puddle. It can give me feed problems but I am running a little larger Hobart machine

For the cost of tooling and the low production numbers, $660 seems very reasonable. The Smog line should be an easy delete and doesn't have to be a permanent mod

I think you fender line looks good

Yeah, they fluff up a lot when you take them apart!

I'm 6-5" and I fit without hitting my head. Like previously mentioned checked for seat spacers or an overstuffed seat. I also drive somewhat reclined...

I know of no alternative for the factory rubber bushing. NOS replacement or poly are your only options, I believe.

That is a rusty beast!! 8k looks even better!

I believe there is a small dimple on the lower part of the hole the master cylinder bolts into on the booster. I believe it is designed to allow brake fluid to drain out instead of into the booster

That is possible. I would think they should have some supporting documentation or possibly pedal condition?

I may order some and try it if I can't get any movement

I would say 8k is an excellent price for the car. Full quarters are no longer available. After market partial quarters, floors, inner wheel wells, dog legs and inner and outer rockers are currently available. The car could be very valuable if properly handled and repaired

Too bad Im not closer. I could've helped...