Patcon

Possibly... I had wondered if there were a product that would help break down the corrosion and not damage the pistons

@Captain Obvious I got the package the other day. Looks great. I will update this weekend, hopefully

Jim, My only thoughts on this are were all of the those hoses available in a braided finish at the time? We have been fortunate that many of these NLA's parts are becoming available again.

Then Get Banzai to do it. Cheaper than buying the correct dies

Depends If you want to show it, then it matters. It also depends on how knowledgeable the judges are... If you want to drive it, then it doesn't.

The holes in the washers are also different diameters

The condenser idea is really cool! You could put that in a tub and load it full of ice to really make the moisture come out

If the hatch will align and then slowly move, then I suspect the mounts are moving because of seal pressure. You could get it adjusted and then put a faint pencil outline around the mounts. Check them after it moves to confirm the slippage. I would use a sealant between the mounts if thats whats happening to increase resistance The door is more difficult... Worn latch, worn striker are easy fixes. If I couldn't solve it any other way I would add adjustment to the inboard but I wouldn't think that should be necessary I believe the latches have two sequential locking positions. Maybe move the strike further out and see if you can get the latch to lock better

I have a 50 gal ingersoll rand. Been a good compressor. I bought it used for about 50% of new cost. He was moving and needed to sell. Check craiglist anf FB marketplace. The more air the better! The air out of a high cfm compressor will be cooler and have less moisture in it because the compressor runs less and doesn't have to work as hard. I also have a large coil of copper line before the first water trap and regulator. This adds effective distance from the compressor, giving the air time to cool. The dryers will remove more water the cooler the air is.

That's too funny!!!

Love Meguiars products! but they have so many and it's really hard to figure out what the differences really are...

It's always good when your tool is big enough. It would be interesting to see if i can afford the quantity of beer you can hold...just you! Not you and Cliff!!

Excellent!! What does that translate to in beer???

Is that a reset button on top?

I have that album. Been a long time...

I put the wheel studs back into the wheel laying on the ground. then stand on the edge of the tire and use an impact to back them off

Burnt valve is surely possible but I would check all the easy stuff before I got drastic, like others have suggested

This isn't a turbo motor correct? I would agree that I would be surprised if you tore it up. These motors tend to be pretty tough

I believe the design of the Ebrake cable will prevent this. The one drum that is tighter will firm up first then the side that has more slack will continue to get pulled and possibly adjust until both sides have the same pressure on them. The cable slides in the middle through the yoke type piece to make this possible

Shelley had a 1/2" piece of glass in the bottom of her foot for several weeks and even went for a six mile hike, not knowing it. Crazy! The thorn should get pushed out in a few days

Take some Dawn dish detergent to the shower and scrub real good and most of the oil will come off. We went hiking in a very heavy poison ivy area last weekend and so far all is good.

Some of that is semantics. I would consider anything under 5000 an early car. As the number of those out there are dwindling. Some would consider under 500 an early car. I tend to refer to those as "very" early cars. They have lots of anomalies and are all 1969 cars I believe

Actually it didn't take a trememndous amount of force to pop the damper. Maybe 20-25#s. That is why I suspect the damper was already cracked. That seemed a little too easy. I am hoping to get it free enough to run it short term. We'll see. It's sort of a short term solution to a long term problem. If I start taking it apart to get it free, it expands everywhere and we have to start the engine build right away, with my funds not Cody's. Also it's an L20b so only four cylinders. I have pounded on the pistons some and believe I have the corrosion broken loose. It's just a matter of gaining access to new ground for cleaning up. This engine still has the oil pan on it I believe. I am not too worried about wiping the flats. The weak link is really the engine stand and bolts. I have to put teenagers on all three points to hold it down in order to pull on it. I may chain it down next time but the stand bracket and block bolts will eventually be the weak link if too much muscle is used As an aside I am about 230# all fitted out. So I can exert some pressure even through the 2' crescent wrench. If that won't get some movement it will be time to reevaluate. Another comment. One of the problems of going from the flywheel end is there is very little room between the flywheel and the engine stand for tools or bars and there are 4 bolt locations so you are very limited in rotational freedom

I had planned on blacking that lip out also. I can be a "little" compulsive too...

If you have battery tools, consider getting a battery powered gun. I have a nice Dewalt one and wouldn't dream of going back to a manual grease gun