Patcon

You might be able to see the badge holes from inside the panel with the interior plastic removed. Depends how well they did deleting them

Don't really have a good setup to rig that up and I'm not sure a starter would do it. I think this will be a battle of mm's to start with. If I can get it to move some. I can use a bore hone to clean it up and get it all the way free. Just need enough leverage

I would be inclined to believe they were deleted by a previous owner

Looks like 1.891" This is the result of the damper and about 5' of pipe welded to it. You can see the pipe under my hand. Although the damper could have already been damaged from the PO

Interesting thought but I am not sure that would work that great. The crank gear is really not that thick when measure at the bottom of the grooves. Even thinner at the keyway. i already popped the balancer open that we had welded an arm to. Plus if yo grind flats, you will have to grind pretty deep to get a reasonable surface for the wrench to bear against. Now on an unfrozen motor, it would probably work fine. Although I would not want the press fit of the gear

I would really like to have the delay wiper they had on the 73's if I do the upgrade...

Jim, This give you 2 speeds like original correct? C

As a counter point. I would not be afraid to lift the car the way they did as long as the pad is on the thicker part of the frame rail at the fire wall. Not under the floor or floor rails! Also the pads need to be nice and flat. The cross member is even better but not everyone has access to a four post lift

That seems sort of personal... Appears to be just a shade over 2 1/2"

Good link Site The short answer is the turbo cam is not going to breath as well in a NA engine. the added pressure makes up for lack of valve lift and other small changes

Visually? or verified with some calipers and degree wheel?

Looks like the depth is less than 0.100" on several of the cranks that I looked at Two flats is fine, if that's easiest

See, Im not a hoarder!!

Thanks

I am not sure aluminum will be strong enough. Pretty sure it's steel because it weighs a couple of pounds Expound on your mic interpretation I figured it a 1-2" mic so by default 1.something little hashes put it 1.3... approximately 3/4 makes it 1.37 Then 3 marks past zero makes it 1.373, correct?

@kfvintagejdm A nice panel that needs reproduction is an accurate battery tray and a section of the wheel well below it

So I have been working on rebuilding some cv halfshafts that I have with an CLSD differential This is the second one with the bands cut. One of the shafts, the boots were split and I can't imagine the grease was supposed to be tan. Normally that is an indication of water but maybe the factory grease was tan. You need to mark the one end (outer end) that can be disassembled. Supposedly the inner end is not disassemblable. So I made small marks and also marked some blue tape for indexing Then you drive the cap off the end Then remove the snap ring and use the puller There is a clip on the inboard side too I could not find a way to disassemble this end So the inner boots are NLA at Nissan and I could not locate them any where else. Dorman makes a "Uni-boot" that has multiple applications and needs to be trimmed to fit. Also the inner ones are light grey. I just couldn't do that! So I found outer boots on Rockauto that match the factory boots pretty good. For the inner boot, I found that generic boots were available on Ebay if you know how to search for the right size. So I found some boots that looked correct. The right size, the right number of ribs, but surprise! They have three nubs molded on the inside, I was not expecting So I got the die grinder and removed them Here is the first shaft next to the next one

11/23/2019 back from paint jail Left on 3/4/2019 for a 4 week paint job... We have gone around a couple of times to get him moving on it again. He is finally starting to work on a few weeks ago. He has some doors partially assembled and on the car and it's at the trim shop for a headliner currently I told him he needed to get going and finish it or I would pay him for what he's in the car and keep it for myself. Tired of it taking up premium space around the shop! He's really very close and could have the car running in just a few weeks if he got serious about it

@Captain Obvious So I received the new tool. Short story is it won't work! The internal Id they said was much closer than it is. Also the internal shape is all wrong. So back it will go It would have been nice if it had worked because it will accept a degree wheel under the knurled nut So I need a device with an Id like this I believe that 1.373" with a key way that .205" wide As an aside the LD28 crank sitting on another bench has the same snout OD. So this tool should work on pretty much everything L series

Nice kit but they are proud of it!!!

I thought the same thing. I wonder if they are white letter on both sides? If they're not it makes it hard to make all the patterns rotate the same way

If you don't need an excessive amount, you could top it up with distilled water. It won't change the freezing point significantly or compromise the anti corrosion aspects. If you need a quart or more, it's probably easier to just get a jug of prediluted

I used a combination of filler and seam sealer I believe. I don't rely on filler for areas that need to be sealed because plastic filler is not waterproof. It's been a while now and I don't really recall. If you can find some pictures of the slam panel pre-primer you might be able to tell more. Filler is normally robin egg blue. Seam sealer I use it tan

I use lacquer thinner to clean up excess. Sometimes I will mask off the area first so there is less to clean up. Also you can use lacquer thinner on your finger to make it easier to smooth out the seam sealer

2% of the whole but 25% richer... Correct?