Patcon

We call that "tuition" around here. The cost of learning...

Front cover is off. Actually the guy beat the damper off to sell the front cover. I didn't realize until I got home I didn't get the cover and I learned it's a unique cover! So I contacted him about that. We eventually got around to the truth that he sold it, so the 2 blocks I bought from him were paper weights without the cover. I have since sourced a cover from the Seattle area. So we again have promise

If they're not overly rusted or pitted, they can probably be salvaged if they haven't previously been turned. There might be a restorer that might be looking for all original parts like "hiyabrad" Older rotors have room on them to turn. New rotors seem to be designed to be trash when they get worn. Just not enough metal on them to turn them down

Yes

None of my large sockets have that shoulder on them. That would be really useful sometimes

I do not believe it is a bolt in mod Have you looked on hybrid Z? They are very good at researching mods and all the options

Good Yes, the bleed needs to be at the highest point

Looks like fun! Alas I am without a running Z currently

Pinion gear and rack gear for 69-78 appear to both be NLA for both numbers

I would assume the socket would actually be turned the other way to prevent flaring the bushing?

The parts should have visible wear near center. If the rack or pinion are worn, I would think you're out of luck. Although I have never searched for those part numbers

I dont have pictures but the balancer that was on it was already damaged (the pulleyswere chipped). We welded a 6' pipe to it as a cheater. The hub of the balancer popped open. It actually broke pretty easy. Now it's possible it was already cracked from the PO beating on it but it made a disappointing tool!

I appreciate that Bruce but I may have found a solution Summit racing had one that appears to be within 0.005" I ordered it. Expensive but would be a nice tool to add to the chest. I suspect the other L blocks have the same snout diameter As to the other questions square would work fine because I have a 24" crescent wrench like Guy bought a couple of years ago Should have the tool midweek. I will update then

That was what I was suspecting too. Especially if you're near the coast in San Diego

Has the car been sitting a long time?

I had considered that as a technique I may have to use some form of hammering too. Pistons have been soaking in PB Blaster for a week now

Looks like SBC is 1.255" BB Mopar is 1.542" BB Chevy is 1.610" Mic'd the Nissan crank @ 1.380" Maybe the SBC could be opened up by .0625"? a 1/16th

I need a solution like this https://www.compcams.com/big-block-chevy-crank-nut.html I have these for small block chevies I have some Nissan L20b's that I need to try to get free. We popped the crank shaft pulley trying to turn a frozen engine @Captain Obvious You feeling board in confinement?? I did some googling to see if I could find one. The one I have is too small. The Nissan crank snout is larger. I don't know if the BB chevy would be closer in size. If I found something close, I could modify it

Another thing to consider is internal damage If you crank the idle jets down too hard you open the idle orifice which makes it hard to adjust the carb. An O2 sensor would help but only if you can isolate it properly

That sounds like progress If they don't run in the channels then I would suspect adjustment. There is actually a lot of room for adjustment in the design

so you had to make room and move the drive back. Does it work properly now?

Raised 3 girls with mom. I totally understand!

I don't remember cutting myself up with the compressor but I bleed so often most times I don't pay attention to it. The saying around here is if Daddy's bleeding we'll get a lot done!

Using the lathe to make a thick wall funnel is cheating!! I have the band style spring compressor. You have to get them very tight and tap the piston through with the butt of a hammer handle. They also have to be kept tight to the deck. I normally don't struggle too much with them but I have done quite a few this way

@gotham22 Strictly my opinion. I would work with crossmember A Crossmember B has a lot more pitting across the width of it both top and bottom. For dealing with the steering rack horns... Well several options. You could fill in the pitting on the horns. the metal fairly thick and shouldn't be as hard a filling in thinner metal. You could even make a piece to back it up with inside the horn from the bottom for a little more beef Possibly the cleanest repair would be to sacrifice cm "B" and cut the horns off of it and weld them on cm "A". This requires ALOT of good measurements and you really need GOOD welding skills. I weld pretty well but I'm not sure I would trust myself to do those welds. You could however get them removed and cm "A" cleaned up and ready. Then tack them in the exact proper place and have a professional welder finish them for you. Let me know, through PM if necessary, if you plan to go this route and I can give you some pointers