Patcon

turbo motor

I wasn't suggesting youre missing the plate. I was thinking the dimensions referenced in the other drawing seem to show the plate. I had forgotten this was the early 4 speed. We dont appear to know that your dimensions are incorrect. We have operated on the presumption they are...

Isn't there normally a front bearing cover inside the bell housing? and doesn't the fork ball normally thread into that? That would account for the disparity...

That is a nice drawing

I bought my epoxy from "color chips" https://www.originalcolorchips.com/ Its a high solids product. Buy some spike shoes. I have chips in mine to make it less slippery. Water, oil and especially glass beads make it slick!

That looks like the top of the jet. One is much lower than the other. I don't recall if you have set the floats yet, but if you haven't that is where I would start

The shaft screws are normally staked. It looks like someone got a little carried away staking that one. the shafts bend easily...

Ahhhh, Jim's emporium. I will have to make a pilgrimage one day....

Here is a source but I'm not sure it's who I used https://www.shoplicenseplates.com/ohio-license-plates there is a "26 ZR" plate there that might work if you can register it I believe this is who I used. He annotates which plates are register able or not http://www.scplates.com/for-sale/South-Carolina He covers Fl, Ga, SC, NC & Va

Make sure you know all the specifics In South Carolina they dont allow any vanity plates for year of manufacture plates. Also only certain letters are register able. I can't fully explain but as historic plates get registered they move down the alphabet. When we looked for Codys goon, I almost bought plates that wouldn't have worked. I had to look for a lower letter plate

In the current market I would say that number seems inline with other recent sales. So more than double where it was at but some less than 50k

That could leave a mark!

Paint is really the big hump in a project. The rest can really come together pretty quick.

Thanks for the feedback. I would say 10k is not out of line but I would have high expectations at that price. I'm not surprised by the timetable being off too. It seems like every car I hear about takes longer to paint than expected. Has it really been 3 years already???

Ouch!!! That may take a while to be 100%.

#4095 but clean and pretty. Will be interesting to see the results on the other one true mileage unknown believed to be 103k

Probably not enough to notice. With the proper chokes and jetting it would be hard to tell the difference, I believe

Yes, probably. I am probably low. I have been on n.v the last few examples like this As for the dents, I would get a good paintless dent repair guy to go over the whole car. If I thought the car would age ok as is, I might leave it original and patina'd

Could the OBX unit account for any of this movement. I was thinking they mounted in a way that didn't affect gear lash. Never mind, the OBX is a complete center section. The helicals could be introducing some of that lash. The side movement would still likely be bearings or damaged bearing surfaces. Did you check the fluid yet? Clean? Clear? No silver or filings on the magnet? No grit?

I'll be surprised if it doesn't double from here. Maybe even up to the 50k range

I would sell while the markets still strong. Its likely to change soon. Liking old things is good but losing out on a good market wouldn't be worth it IMO

Too bad I think its gonna have to come out and be gone through

Well, I would say thats too much. I know the axles were available at Rockauto. Some of that looks like too much lash on the ring gear but the up & dn movement on the input sides of the diff looks like bearing tolerances. Looks like you have significant movement at multiple points. Will the shop stand behind the diff?

As a reference point for others, would you be willing to share in round numbers what the paint job cost? It looks good and it's very rare to have a flawless paint job. The good news is a car can be reassembled pretty fast after paint is finished