Patcon

I agree with zKars. If its not broke, don't break it. There are a great many recommendations in the FSM, some I do, some I dont. Our modern head gaskets may not require it, the new headbolts might not require it. I can think of a few reasons it might have been SOP in the 60's but not now. In my might there is no upside to retorquing, only downside...

The cars that bring serious money are clean original paint cars for the most part. If you paint it, I think you lose most of that. Motorman7 might be able to help you bring it up. He has a very good body man. It can be a nice car but I'm not sure you'll be any money ahead to paint it versus the way it sits. Zed is right, the more paper history you have the better and one owner helps too. The poor paint condition really discounts it IMO

Thanks site, I will do some more looking at those

@240260280 Can you hoover up any leads on generic clips?

Very clean looking

Did you fab the bracket from scratch GK?

If Jim has spare ones, that would be great. Part of my thinking was to find a suitable replacement wouldn't require removing them from a possibly functional part...

You can get a new data tag the car is titled to you

No idea!! Amazing some of the numbers these cars have brought this year

There are several really good build threads on the site that should have enough pictures to walk you through. Look at some of "motorman7"s build threads

and you either have an exceptionally large bladder or you peed outside a lot!!!

Its a datsun 510 heater I dont believe these are on any of the Zs Thanks, anyway

I thought about Zkars He's bailed me out many times. I thought somebody my have a line on an aftermarket source

Cody took the heater apart a year and a half ago. Since he hasn't learned this lesson yet, he misplaced the hardware. I bought new fasteners from Belmetric but we need these clips. Any idea on a source for these?

keep all the upgrades!!

The first stuff you drained looked red not orange like rust. I think your acetone stripped alot more out (the black bucket) I believe someone sealed but didn't get it all the way cured. It needs to be really cured before you add gasoline ( a strong solvent) back into the equation. I used a tank sealer from Caswell that I like a lot. It's a two part epoxy and very tough

Is it possible to get a state side member to ship it to you?

Have you thought about trying a run with no trumpets to see what happens? It's free...

Paltec should have taken care of this. May need to look but not right away in my opinion

Looks like "red coat" in the tank. Its coming out with the fuel. The acetone made it worse. The tank coating is coming out. Needs redoing properly. Might not be the main problem but will need fixing now

If the mixture nuts are all the way up, the needle valves are stuck open or the floats are set too high

Paint thinner? That's what motorman7 uses to degrease old parts

The intake studs could be an issue with the factory lift points. I have never had an issue. You could just wrap a chain around the manifold in the rear which would spread the load over more studs. The rear point does the lions share of the work

I would use some foam sheeting from home depot and some clear latex caulk. easily reversible and doesn't interfere with future painting