Patcon

Burnt valve is surely possible but I would check all the easy stuff before I got drastic, like others have suggested

This isn't a turbo motor correct? I would agree that I would be surprised if you tore it up. These motors tend to be pretty tough

I believe the design of the Ebrake cable will prevent this. The one drum that is tighter will firm up first then the side that has more slack will continue to get pulled and possibly adjust until both sides have the same pressure on them. The cable slides in the middle through the yoke type piece to make this possible

Shelley had a 1/2" piece of glass in the bottom of her foot for several weeks and even went for a six mile hike, not knowing it. Crazy! The thorn should get pushed out in a few days

Take some Dawn dish detergent to the shower and scrub real good and most of the oil will come off. We went hiking in a very heavy poison ivy area last weekend and so far all is good.

Some of that is semantics. I would consider anything under 5000 an early car. As the number of those out there are dwindling. Some would consider under 500 an early car. I tend to refer to those as "very" early cars. They have lots of anomalies and are all 1969 cars I believe

Actually it didn't take a trememndous amount of force to pop the damper. Maybe 20-25#s. That is why I suspect the damper was already cracked. That seemed a little too easy. I am hoping to get it free enough to run it short term. We'll see. It's sort of a short term solution to a long term problem. If I start taking it apart to get it free, it expands everywhere and we have to start the engine build right away, with my funds not Cody's. Also it's an L20b so only four cylinders. I have pounded on the pistons some and believe I have the corrosion broken loose. It's just a matter of gaining access to new ground for cleaning up. This engine still has the oil pan on it I believe. I am not too worried about wiping the flats. The weak link is really the engine stand and bolts. I have to put teenagers on all three points to hold it down in order to pull on it. I may chain it down next time but the stand bracket and block bolts will eventually be the weak link if too much muscle is used As an aside I am about 230# all fitted out. So I can exert some pressure even through the 2' crescent wrench. If that won't get some movement it will be time to reevaluate. Another comment. One of the problems of going from the flywheel end is there is very little room between the flywheel and the engine stand for tools or bars and there are 4 bolt locations so you are very limited in rotational freedom

I had planned on blacking that lip out also. I can be a "little" compulsive too...

If you have battery tools, consider getting a battery powered gun. I have a nice Dewalt one and wouldn't dream of going back to a manual grease gun

You might be able to see the badge holes from inside the panel with the interior plastic removed. Depends how well they did deleting them

Don't really have a good setup to rig that up and I'm not sure a starter would do it. I think this will be a battle of mm's to start with. If I can get it to move some. I can use a bore hone to clean it up and get it all the way free. Just need enough leverage

I would be inclined to believe they were deleted by a previous owner

Looks like 1.891" This is the result of the damper and about 5' of pipe welded to it. You can see the pipe under my hand. Although the damper could have already been damaged from the PO

Interesting thought but I am not sure that would work that great. The crank gear is really not that thick when measure at the bottom of the grooves. Even thinner at the keyway. i already popped the balancer open that we had welded an arm to. Plus if yo grind flats, you will have to grind pretty deep to get a reasonable surface for the wrench to bear against. Now on an unfrozen motor, it would probably work fine. Although I would not want the press fit of the gear

I would really like to have the delay wiper they had on the 73's if I do the upgrade...

Jim, This give you 2 speeds like original correct? C

As a counter point. I would not be afraid to lift the car the way they did as long as the pad is on the thicker part of the frame rail at the fire wall. Not under the floor or floor rails! Also the pads need to be nice and flat. The cross member is even better but not everyone has access to a four post lift

That seems sort of personal... Appears to be just a shade over 2 1/2"

Good link Site The short answer is the turbo cam is not going to breath as well in a NA engine. the added pressure makes up for lack of valve lift and other small changes

Visually? or verified with some calipers and degree wheel?

Looks like the depth is less than 0.100" on several of the cranks that I looked at Two flats is fine, if that's easiest

See, Im not a hoarder!!

Thanks

I am not sure aluminum will be strong enough. Pretty sure it's steel because it weighs a couple of pounds Expound on your mic interpretation I figured it a 1-2" mic so by default 1.something little hashes put it 1.3... approximately 3/4 makes it 1.37 Then 3 marks past zero makes it 1.373, correct?

@kfvintagejdm A nice panel that needs reproduction is an accurate battery tray and a section of the wheel well below it