Patcon

Aircraft stripper has been reformulated. Doesnt work as good as the old stuff

I have an assortment of die grinders with different bits. a cut off wheel can help knock welds down. 1" roloks work good but wear out fast. I also have an assortment of rasp bits for die grinders that work good too

I would expect way , more than $500 for metal repairs! and that's doing it all yourself. I also wouldn't make any panel that is commercially available! A stamped panel is harder and will make a better repair. Also if the metal work isn't done really well it really hurts the value of the car. Don't scrimp on this part!!

If you use a good epoxy primer it can sit a long time before top coating. It will need to be scuffed before top coating but the epoxy will not have to be removed. Epoxy is the best choice but you need the proper safety equipment to spray it.

Very nice! Does it hold up to being closed onto the harness?

Rich, What did you do to harness holders in the engine bay? Original? Redone?

This can be a mixed blessing. Sometimes cooling welds can cause shrinkage and warping of panels. I use to do that but I have gotten to where I move around on the car. I come back when the welds are cool enough to touch

They $3500 is equal to about $25k now but thats based on published federal inflation numbers which are low. I would say closer to 40k. So not too far off, considering the complexity of a modern car

Thats a nice old Kawasaki!

I had one once that I couldn't get out. Even chained between two trees with a come a long

Good looking shop! I like the mini-x. I've been shopping for one of those The glass doors on the end are a good idea. No flack for not having rails at those openings?

Lumber prices are crazy right now and have a serious impact on me and my business. I really don't know how you could bid projects and protect yourself from these crazy prices. I saw an article a while back that estimated the typical framing package has increased by $12k from just a few months ago!!

What he said ^^^!

I would think a good buffing compound and a rotary buffer would take care of the lines

So good to see you around Jim. Will miss seeing everyone at Zcon...I would be in for at least 2 grids, maybe 3 @Dave WM I think I would want a solvant based product and in enough bulk to use a touch up spray gun

So the video addresses my other question. How was it silk screened when the glass curves in dimensions? Evidently it was screened first and then heated and formed. I was watching somebody using flexible screens to decorate glasses. I wonder if you could order a screen that would flex enough to regrid the glass. In my mind I was thinking you would strip off all the old grid, buff it and then rescreen it. That eliminates the need to line up exactly with the old grid...

Do anyone know how the process was originally done? Seems that would help come up with a replacement process @HS30-H

I'm with Mark, I would have already started it. I have always been under the impression that you should start it and hold it at fast idle for a period of time to break the cam in????

I understand, I have bought a number of datsun items out of Australia

I would go through zed findings or tabco. If you are having trouble with Tabco, maybe somebody on the forum would ship them to you. MSA normaly marks the panels up pretty good. Other better places to spend money than there

I would think you could find better sources for all the metal your are looking at from MSA I would go epoxy. It's tough and I have never heard of issues. stored inside or not

Or metal screws with a plastic or rubber washer. Should prevent noises and protect the panel

I agree! Find an earlier car as a donor

I think a choice like that is a good idea. A really wide pan head philips would probably be my choice

What is your plan for fasteners into the riv nuts