Patcon

can you register it?

I learned this from Kevin Tetz's videos. My understanding is that plastic body filler is not water proof. Moisture will actually migrate through it. Fiberglass in contrasts is very water proof. I have found this to be the case in my own work too. Several years ago I quit using bondo for rotten exterior door jamb repairs and began using fiberglass. the repairs seem to hold up much better over the long haul.

I would use a little fiberglass instead of plastic filler on the weld beads at the lower edge of the door. The fiberglass is much more water resistant than plastic filler

I use that tape technique to straighten lines. I use a pencil and mark the high points on the door, for example, then I use a 4' level and draw a straight line down the door in pencil, Then I tape one side of it and block it. Then switch to the other side and block it again. Spray high build or filler then repeat...

The automatic will limit the abuse transferred to the rear end

I'm not so sure...

Maybe ambient air temperature is contributing. Warm fuel and all...

If it doesn't leak, I would leave it and paint it black

Ford 9" requires a lot of fabrication. Just find an R200 and move on

Doesn't look like it will fit and they look like raised letters. Might be hard to do well...

Why do you not like acid etch?

The diffs are pretty tough and the stockish motors don't make enough power to overly abuse them. They should always have a little bit of movement (lash). 1/32" seems really reasonable. I would put seals in it and run it

Looks like 2L roadsters have the same Pin-ball stud

If you have great spark and you manually added fuel it should run. I find adding fuel can be hit or miss. Liquid fuel is not combustible. I have better success with Ether

The throttle shaft screws are brass and really soft. They are also staked on the other end. The staking has to be ground off to really get them out. which will necessitate new screws for reassembly

You could check movement in the bearings at the output stubs and the input flange. With a dial indicator you could probably check backlash. Spin it by hand and feel for roughness. replacing the seals is probably a good idea

turbo motor

I wasn't suggesting youre missing the plate. I was thinking the dimensions referenced in the other drawing seem to show the plate. I had forgotten this was the early 4 speed. We dont appear to know that your dimensions are incorrect. We have operated on the presumption they are...

Isn't there normally a front bearing cover inside the bell housing? and doesn't the fork ball normally thread into that? That would account for the disparity...

That is a nice drawing

I bought my epoxy from "color chips" https://www.originalcolorchips.com/ Its a high solids product. Buy some spike shoes. I have chips in mine to make it less slippery. Water, oil and especially glass beads make it slick!

That looks like the top of the jet. One is much lower than the other. I don't recall if you have set the floats yet, but if you haven't that is where I would start

The shaft screws are normally staked. It looks like someone got a little carried away staking that one. the shafts bend easily...

Ahhhh, Jim's emporium. I will have to make a pilgrimage one day....

Here is a source but I'm not sure it's who I used https://www.shoplicenseplates.com/ohio-license-plates there is a "26 ZR" plate there that might work if you can register it I believe this is who I used. He annotates which plates are register able or not http://www.scplates.com/for-sale/South-Carolina He covers Fl, Ga, SC, NC & Va