Patcon

That is a rusty beast!! 8k looks even better!

I believe there is a small dimple on the lower part of the hole the master cylinder bolts into on the booster. I believe it is designed to allow brake fluid to drain out instead of into the booster

That is possible. I would think they should have some supporting documentation or possibly pedal condition?

I may order some and try it if I can't get any movement

I would say 8k is an excellent price for the car. Full quarters are no longer available. After market partial quarters, floors, inner wheel wells, dog legs and inner and outer rockers are currently available. The car could be very valuable if properly handled and repaired

Too bad Im not closer. I could've helped...

Possibly... I had wondered if there were a product that would help break down the corrosion and not damage the pistons

@Captain Obvious I got the package the other day. Looks great. I will update this weekend, hopefully

Jim, My only thoughts on this are were all of the those hoses available in a braided finish at the time? We have been fortunate that many of these NLA's parts are becoming available again.

Then Get Banzai to do it. Cheaper than buying the correct dies

Depends If you want to show it, then it matters. It also depends on how knowledgeable the judges are... If you want to drive it, then it doesn't.

The holes in the washers are also different diameters

The condenser idea is really cool! You could put that in a tub and load it full of ice to really make the moisture come out

If the hatch will align and then slowly move, then I suspect the mounts are moving because of seal pressure. You could get it adjusted and then put a faint pencil outline around the mounts. Check them after it moves to confirm the slippage. I would use a sealant between the mounts if thats whats happening to increase resistance The door is more difficult... Worn latch, worn striker are easy fixes. If I couldn't solve it any other way I would add adjustment to the inboard but I wouldn't think that should be necessary I believe the latches have two sequential locking positions. Maybe move the strike further out and see if you can get the latch to lock better

I have a 50 gal ingersoll rand. Been a good compressor. I bought it used for about 50% of new cost. He was moving and needed to sell. Check craiglist anf FB marketplace. The more air the better! The air out of a high cfm compressor will be cooler and have less moisture in it because the compressor runs less and doesn't have to work as hard. I also have a large coil of copper line before the first water trap and regulator. This adds effective distance from the compressor, giving the air time to cool. The dryers will remove more water the cooler the air is.

That's too funny!!!

Love Meguiars products! but they have so many and it's really hard to figure out what the differences really are...

It's always good when your tool is big enough. It would be interesting to see if i can afford the quantity of beer you can hold...just you! Not you and Cliff!!

Excellent!! What does that translate to in beer???

Is that a reset button on top?

I have that album. Been a long time...

I put the wheel studs back into the wheel laying on the ground. then stand on the edge of the tire and use an impact to back them off

Burnt valve is surely possible but I would check all the easy stuff before I got drastic, like others have suggested

This isn't a turbo motor correct? I would agree that I would be surprised if you tore it up. These motors tend to be pretty tough

I believe the design of the Ebrake cable will prevent this. The one drum that is tighter will firm up first then the side that has more slack will continue to get pulled and possibly adjust until both sides have the same pressure on them. The cable slides in the middle through the yoke type piece to make this possible