Patcon

It is possible to adjust the hood hinges sometimes. It's hit or miss but there is some adjustability

One of the vendors should have them. Zeddsaver might as well as some of the others

Did they line bore the block? If they did, I would ask which way the caps were installed when they did it. If the block wasn't line bored then install them with the arrows forward

$483 pounds isn't very cheap

I wonder if they shipped certain amounts of parts to certain regions but since so many Canadian Zs have succumbed to rust. Maybe you didn't use the supply as fast as those South of the border

Wow! Don't tempt me!! I would love to have you take up space here for a while! I will start browsing though. Maybe I should just buy you a plane ticket for a month or so and you can come here and push Lily along...

Somebody got a nice car for $17,100! Anyone here buy it? I thought about it at the last moment, but my wife might kill me!

Seems like some of the hardbody differential parts might be interchangeable https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1995-nissan-hardbody_pickup_d21u/power_train/rear_final_drive.html?Diagram=380_A002 also this looked like an excellent source for internal parts https://www.nengun.com/nismo/lsd-repair-parts

The spinning looks proper for a crank with sticky prelube. they don't really "free spin". I think it would be good to have the clearance on the thrust bearing. How hard are you prying? You can pry pretty hard since both surfaces are steel. It's a little easier to check end play if you have a dial indicator and a magnetic base. Measure off the crank snout or flywheel boss.

Part numbers?

Looks good

Would you like me to help you spend your money? What are you looking for and how far away can it be?

Many of the rubber bushings are available new from Nissan. You can find the parts numbers here http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978 Then go to courtesy nissans parts page and check the availability and pricing

She looks great! Time to start shopping again!

That sounds like that would be a great place to wonder around a little!

Not any mechanic I would use. Like Wheee said, I don't do burnouts in my car why would I let my mechanic do it.

You're doing good! You picked 2 of the hardest areas on a z for a stud gun. The end of the quarter is paper thin, which is why the studs tore out and the area behind the bumper has an interal frame rail that can provide an amazing amount of stubbornness to dents. The quarter turned out nice

"Track rats" don't car if it's harsh; only how it turns For me I went with new rubber because I don't plan on thrashing the car...much You could look in the "waking the sleeping beast" thread and see if something stands out to you

Work quick! You can use a rag or some paper towels to wick the oil out of the dampers with out having to disassemble the carbs

That is in really good shape!

Excellent find! Thanks for posting the solution

Wow!!! @motorman7 That's a nice clean looking car with a very clean install under the hood.

the coal slag is probably a lot like sand in some ways. It feeds really well and doesn't clump like sand can do. It cuts quick and leaves a finish suitable for primer I have 3m organic masks for painting. We use the Ellipse mask at work . I would also remove the battery tray. You can replicate the factory welds if you want, but I would never trade hidden rust for factory spot welds

It looks like the whole rear edge of the hatch is gone!!?

Many people prefer new rubber oem bushings where possible. The urethane ones can be overly harsh