Patcon

It looks like the whole rear edge of the hatch is gone!!?

Many people prefer new rubber oem bushings where possible. The urethane ones can be overly harsh

A lot of people have used megajolt for a stand alone ignition controller

Super glue is not going to work. I made a metal band that fit tightly around the outside between the plastic and the foam

Be sure and use a good respirator. I like these for dust You don't want silicosis!! I use "black diamond" typically, which is coal slag Also be very careful if you do any of the thin sheet metal. You can ruin it easily! Use as low of a pressure as possible and try not to blast straight on. Shoot it at an angle and remember you are work hardening the panel as you blast it

Does anyone have access to Nissan Fast? I wanted to get the part numbers for the clutches and plates that go in the 1988 300zx clutch LSDiff. Does anyone know of an alternative to the Nissan parts? I know HybridZ had a group buy for plates a few years back I found an online manual for the 88 300zx and it had the differential procedures for testing, break away torque and reconditioning

Are you self performing the sand blasting?

That's why we don't need 6,7 or 800 HP in a Z!

Mark, I thought you might recommend that. I have considered the aluminum parts but they are not quite my thing and it's actually cheaper for me to build it. Chris, I believe those are the ST sway bar mounts. So they will come with the new bar set when I order it any ideas for inspecting the diff?

Excellent progress!!

Philip, I believe this is a timing issue. Carry on... C

So I have been trying to make some progress, even though the paint booth is occupied. So I pulled out my 2 LS differentials. I have done some searching but haven't found the info I wanted. I have a CLSD and a VLSD avaialble complete with drive shafts Here is the VLSD from an 88 Shiro Here is the CLSD on the bench with the driveshafts I want to make up something like this. So I can use the finned cover 2 I tried to contact Savage 42 by PM at HybridZ but never got a response. He said he would post up dimensions in the thread I found this in. I was hoping to get some dimensions for a template, but I guess I will have to start from scratch. So any thoughts on this? Also is there a way to inspect the condition of this diff before I install it?

The tank looks really good

I like the plan!

So was the car originally silver? What color will you go with?

I would expect higher vacuum on a cam with less over lap and possibly less duration I thought the leak down numbers were really good all things considered

You know, you could manually check the ratio by counting rotations to see if it lines up with Philips 3.18

Camshafts could contribute to the discrepancy

There as been a lot of discussion about large sizing if rod bolts are changed. Madkaw is dealing with that I believe

At least you got it out. Probably better it broke than get used and cause problems later

I couldn't figure out how to let Frank know...

Thanks guys I pasted it in and got there but there may be some reason it doesn't work for you. Just wanted to get it tagged somewhere so it could be found.

They have moved sidedraft@vintagetechnologygarage.groups.io

I have not tried this on a 240z but the arm rest in the BMW Z3's is atrocious! I took the metal bit out of the arm rest and welded a piece of bolt or screw to it. then I drilled a corresponding hole down the arm rest into the foam. I filled it with epoxy and pushed the screw down into the epoxy to harden. Keep in mind that Z3 armrest are about $200 each not $35 You could try something similar if you could get some wire wrapped around the metal plate or drill some small holes in it. Then epoxy the wires into the foam. I work with spray foam alot at work and I don't think you will have success going that route

If you are referring to the internal and external snaps to the right of center in the picture. I reused mine. I agree with Zed if you don't damage them, once they are back in place they should be good to go.