Patcon

That is really a waste of time. But each to his own... The chassis was never meant to handle that kind of horsepower and you will have a hard time getting it to hook up. If you do get traction you will be looking at the sky as the front end twists all up. The car has to be re-engineered from the ground up for that kind of power. These cars are becoming too valuable to be practically used for a project that will return pennies on the dollar. If I were looking for a tune shop that would not be a badge of accomplishment in my eyes. A nice looking, good running, clean install of 250-300HP would be much more appealing. Which is still not a really easy thing to accomplish because of the tuning

That's Rear Wheel Horse Power. That's very different than the advertised horsepower for new cars and such. Those are all taken at the flywheel and are significantly higher numbers

I'm too tall to be a member of the band, but maybe I could be the manager?

Call Banzai motorworks ( 301) 420-4200 You'll get him

Thats good. You should have a good selection of clean fairly rust free Zs

I thought about panel bond too. Since he didn't do a butt weld and had the nice lap it would have been easy to panel bond that in and move on

Mine did not look like that. Those look to have the four welds around the perimeter like CO disassembled.Unless the 73 was different than a 71, I would say those have already been replaced once. Mine could be fully disassembled. In this picture you can see the inner rod studs (replated yellow) then the larger piece that threads onto the ends of the rack. The stud goes in first, from the back, then the small spherical washers go against the back of the inner stud. Then the springs I believe. The large squarish lock nuts (plated yellow) go on the rack ends first then the ball assembly get threaded on. You tighten them until the proper movement torque is achieved then the 30mm lock nuts get tightened down

I suspect other comparable vehicles have hidden issues. Most do. Where as after you have gone through the car for the 25k there shouldn't be any of those #2 cars on Hagerty are valued at $38,300 and we saw a 73' sell a few months back for $50+

Zeddsaver doesn't have the 115 either but maybe he could get it?

So they had 11 something in it and sold it for 12k which didn't include the 54 manhours... The english wheel is a must for making a good patch, but I suspect it takes some practice to get it right

I don't mind that look. Sometimes the blue seems to through the palatte off

the inner fender metal looks great though. Even if it doesn't get seen!

The flip side of that is we have seen Z's trade over six figures and many cars in the 40's - 50's. That leaves a good bit of room to pay a metal man unless the car is stupid expensive

Some young people destroy their first cars; some don't. My first car, a 240z, was taken out by a dead pine tree, 25 years later... Some of that depends on Mathew and how mature he is. I do think a 280z would be better than a 240z. they are marginally safer and more refined. Mathew, Are you in Illinois?

Nice to have you back. Although I don't have any input

Circa what year?

Thanks for the necropsy The 240z ends are multiple parts. You can thread them in for the correct tension then tighten the lock ring to hold it. Are the new Moogs the later style?

Thats a good idea. Could use a bolt then cut the head off flush. Don't thread it in too far or you could block up the passage. Welding would be harder without pulling the head and because of contamination At 15 yo, I dont think you can have dumb questions. Better to ask then mess something up. Between the members here we have made most of the mistakes, some of them twice. No need for you to repeat them. Welcome aboard!

Do the 280z racks not have the ability to adjust tension on the side rod balls?

The 1970 FSM pages ST-10 & ST -11 have the procedures for "side rod ball" adjustment #9 in the exploded diagram. I didn't know how to paste them in here directly

Best of luck

If you build the engine for boost now, it will be a dog normally aspirated. You will need to keep your compression low to accept boost later. A 10:1 compression NA motor with a lighter flywheel can bring just as many grins

A normally aspirated motor is more forgiving when it comes to getting the tune right. Turbos don't tolerate lean-ness very well. A nice torquey motor in an S30 chassis is a lot of fun. These chassis are really only suitable for so much power with out a lot of work and extra metal

I suspect the Japanese ones are better steel than most of the ones on the market currently but I could be wrong. You are referring to these The ones I have appear to hard chrome on the spherical end with grease slots. I would think they should be very wear resistant. I am not sure how the modern ones are manufactured. As long as you can adjust them and remove any slop and they move freely, I would reuse them

I will have a look Maybe @Zed Head can help me out,. He is very good at finding things in the FSM