Patcon
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Everything posted by Patcon
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Yeah, that's a good way to get hurt -
So I cut again finishes and all ground down I had some surface rust appear in the rear frame rail. I tried to use some Eastwood liquid rust remover but it seemed to make it worse. So I brought the panels outside and used the 90# pressure pot to quickly clean them off 150#s of Black diamond and here it is Brushed on some epoxy primer on the frame and the rear valance. I think I am ready to put it back together. It's still not quite the way I want it but I have gotten to the point where I don't really care. I figure I won't be able to see it from the drivers seat. So I am going to keep pushing forward. I really want to finish color before it gets too cold
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So ten month later, an update I have been working on other projects, one of them being Cody's new truck So I started by doing a pulling slit this to reshape the curve and had to rework this bracket above the exhaust outlet Added in some metal to reshape the curve Stitched it up and voilà !! It's wrong The curve under the tail light trims is inconsistent, too big in the middle
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I don't know either. The fan does ok because the shop isn't very big with 8' ceilings but everything in the shop has a layer of dirt on it but the paint has almost no trash. He does fog the shop up pretty good when he really gets going. I think there is a lesson in here somewhere. I am not quite sure what it is yet. Maybe instead of a booth, I should just drape the rest of my shop to keep it clean, wet the floor and spray away?
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Thanks Chas We have both grown a lot during the process. It's hard doing a project like this during the "Testosterone years" but I think we are through the worst of it. We are hoping to have both cars ready for Zcon 2020. Have you considered coming over for it? I would be glad to pick you up somewhere...
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I come down on the cheap insurance side of the debate on the rod bolts. If the budget allows I go ARP
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Yeah, he's started to get that way but he's ready for the bleeding to stop. This painter really doesn't charge what he needs to and told me he is going to quit painting for the most part once he finishes what he has in the shop. He will just focus on metal work repairs. which is sad because he does a really nice job.
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He started buffing this week He says it looks like an "orange mirror" We will see if Cody can get it running before Zcon 2020
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So he paints in a 2 car garage, where he also does filler and metal work with just a window fan for ventilation He wets the floor down but that's it and I swear he has way less trash in his paint than I do in my plastic booth!! .
So he epoxy primed and then used "Slick sand" over the initial filler work
We deleted the roof rack (so if anyones interested) and we deleted the stainless trim along the rocker panels. I like it but it's a dirt magnetic and the holes are prone to rusting so we got rid of it
One of the few rust spots on the car was the inside drivers rear corner. Maybe the exhaust contributed to that. We also redid all 4 lead roof joints because they were cracking
So off to paint jail in March ...2-3 months to paint $2500-3000 plus material to paint... Should get it back in the next couple of weeks 4-5k in labor plus materials
I don't know if you can do it with out some form of flux and I would be worried about not getting all of that clean before paint. I know brazing use to cause issues under paint and I suspect it might be for a similar reason. You know you have so many hours into a panel to make it right and get it painted, that i don't like to take chances on a paint failure. I get more jealous of my time every year because I can see the "bottom of the bucket" You could always take it to a welder to stitch close if a person didn't own a welder. If you lay wet rags around the holes, there should be almost no distortion.
I'm glad you like it Chris!
I would too. You don't know that another head will be any better or any cheaper than where you are already at. I try to take my stuff to people I trust and then rely on their expertise. That's really what I'm paying them for...
It's not a bad price if you had use for 45's
Do you have a volt meter? If so: 1. Check the battery voltage 2. Check the battery voltage when cranking 3. If it's low when cranking add a second battery with jumper cables or a jump box would be even better. Let's rule out low voltage possibilities to start with If you do not have one, consider going to Harbor Freight and getting a cheap one. It will make diagnosis much easier
Sell the 4 barrel setup and use that money to finish the SU's. They are a better setup over all, unless you are very good at tuning 4 barrel carbs
The 4 barrel dooesn't feed fuel as evenly. You will have to buy it and the manifold, which won't be cheaper than just making your SU's work and the 4 barrel will be harder to adjust the mixture versus the very simple SU's
Got this email today Yahoo has announced today it's abandoning supporting all Group websites and as a result it is no longer useful to me. The content has been corrupted for quite awhile and as a result trying to save photos is now no longer possible. I'll be moving to another vendor which I'll announce here soon. They are only going to continue to support communicating by email only. -Keith Franck
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