Patcon

Does that mean we can filch the drums from them now? 😉

I don't know what's going on but you could add to the front edge of the door if you can't come up with another solution.

She's gotten a lot bigger!

That's fun!! Gotta love cool neighbors who are car people

Made some good progress today even after wasting a lot of time trying to plate some stuff. Insulators and gaskets on Added an SS plate that takes care of the carb springs that came from Zcardepot. Carbs are on. I can't locate all the linkage yet. I took an extra balance tube I had and bead blasted for an interim solution I reworked the back brake lines. I had an interference Ended up with this Here is the final rear sway bar setup. At least for now... 😉 Do both of the washers go inside the yoke with the spring?

So I took out the rear spring and ran the swing arm through the arc to check for interference's. The brake line was hitting the adapter plates for my CV axles. So I rerouted the line over the top of the parking brake. This is what I ended up with.

I was trying to do some plating and not getting good results. So I checked the resistance on my leads. The hot leads had decent high resistance, So I redid them and used stainless clips. I also put my ground directly to the copper stringer wires. The plating did improve. I am still having some challenges with brightener. It helps but too much causes blistering, Still working on the solution

I sorted the parts that need to be re-plated by color, yellow zinc or clear zinc. I did a quick clean to knock off excess dirt and wire wheeled the areas where there was paint overspray from the previous paint job. I put some shrink sleeve over the plastic portion of the carb linkage to protect them during the cleaning process. I also plugged the holes of the carb and smog accessories to prevent the fluids from entering inside. I then put the small parts in gallon zip lock bags. I had one box of the clear/silver zinc parts, and 3 boxes of the yellow/gold zinc parts. I used three boxes for the yellow zinc because of the excess weight (USPS flat rate shipping box). Each box weighed approximately 20 pounds For the plating process, the 3 yellow/gold zinc parts will be thrown into a single barrel, so the charge will be for just one yellow zinc barrel plate. The plating company does a good job of cleaning the smaller parts in their prep process. I am guessing it is either a vibe or tumble process along with a chemical clean that they use to clean the parts to remove dirt and rust. I spent a bit more time cleaning the long tubes and larger parts as they will be rack plated and I do not think they get cleaned as well. On the long tubes I put in a large diameter bend in order get the parts to fit in my 4 foot shipping box. They said they can accomodate parts up to 6 feet in length. All plating is done by Sav-On plating in Phoenix, AZ. They have done a great job with my parts on previous restorations. Pics Below

I have no idea. I just bought locks because the car will live outside a good bit. It was just as easy to get locks as to get hexagonals. The locks might have a little more clearance too

I have some chrome valve stems and black locking type lugnuts

I don't know

215/55 R16 tire I think +11 moves the tire further out to the wheel arch?

Got the driveshaft reassembled I painted it all black I bought a piece of tubing out of china. Cut it down and replated it last weekend. I used a nitrile o ring on the end. I would rather have a small square hydraulic ring instead. We'll see if it leaks The intakes need to be reassembled on the car to hold the orientation and the spacing I made a center line mark to help get the pipe centered between the manifolds. I also had to drill out the manifolds to get the corrosion out so the tube would go in. I also started working on the washer tubes I have to figure out how to straighten out the tubes

I worked on the engine some more today. My baby orangutan put the oil filter on so tight I couldn't get it off without pliers and I didn't want to mark up the pretty blue filter. So I dropped the oil pump out and filled it about 75% full. It was totally dry even after all the attempts to prime. Rotated it a little to make sure the air was out. Put it back on and hooked it up to my truck again. It primed pretty quick after that. You could tell when it started to prime because it started turning faster and the pitch changed. I blacked out the cowl area Put the fan on after some longer 4mm studs came in from Belmetric I tried to bleed the clutch, but it wouldn't prime. I will check the push rod length next time I work on it

16 inch Rota RB's +4

Sixteen inch Rota RB's +4 15" might actually clear. It'd be close

I saw that. I thought the same thing when he made the ball joint. Just crazy! He also had to make two of the receivers he used for case hardening the ball joints and I suspect he had to make the fixture he used to mil the elliptical grooves in the ball joint heads!

Ive never seen that early water pump. How did you source it?

I would trim the qtr window one back. Maybe even at an angle. Do it in small steps until you like the results

16 inch RB's

I can get one with the rims. They don't have rubber yet

Still not on the road yet. Hope to be early 2025. We'll see...

I also used a straight pick in the screw holes to help pry it into place and line up the screw holes. They can be difficult to get in properly. I would use some of the Precision sealant lube. Do not use silicone on painted surfaces. It's is very difficult to get off later if paint work needs to be done.

I was going to look but hadn't gotten back to the shop yet, sorry...

I was buying a number of other things and with my lack of free time I appreciate not having to make another trip. Also my local Nissan dealer is a pain just like my local BMW dealership so I work around both of them with online resources