Patcon

Great looking truck!

Yeah, I don't get why people do that. Basic dolly work is pretty easy.

Interesting

Wow! They weren't shy about using filler!

Penetrating oil. Soak it down. Make a flat spot on the end of the stud and center punch it. Drill a small, 1/8" or so hole all the way through it.On second thought if this bolt goes down into the water jacket, don't drill all the way through. If the bolt hole has a bottom, drill all the way through it and fill with penetrating oil. Then use an "easy out" to remove the bolt. Make a bigger hole for the easy out. The really small easy outs can break and they are very hard to remove if you break them.

Nice to see you back at it!

Unless it's really bad, that is an excellent price! Even if it had minimal rust it would still probably be a good price based on recent history. It looks to have the original paint. So, if it's a true survivor, probably worth a lot more than that

If the mechanical fuel pumps sit for a while, the internal valves can stick shut. If the pump is serviceable, you can disassemble and make sure the diaphragm is good and the valves move

There is a company in Greenville SC, circuit board medics. They might be able to troubleshoot you in-op display

I don't know that we have enough traffic for auctions to reach reasonable levels. Would an auction increase the "troll" traffic?

Have fun at school

Isn't there a spring internally in between the throats of the carb? Maybe it is weak or broken. Could be stretched

Jim, what years work?

Did you ruin the shifter fork?

@hls30.com Yes, what Guy said!

So does it run now?

@jfa.series1 Jim, would like to get the gas cap plated?

Looks good. Will be interesting to see if the harness plugs will go on and off easily

Used ones appear to be $75 - $100. So I would easily think double that but It might be worth a lot more on an auction site

You should get the early gas cap and ring if it's not too bad. Have it plated or send it to Jim (jfa) to have it plated

If you have a drill or drill press and some taps you might could make a tool to free it. Take a piece of steel schedule 40 pipe big enough to go all the way over the bolt and arm. Drill a hole in the pipe and tap it for a bolt, maybe 1/2" or 7/16". Make a hole on the opposite side for the wedge bolt to push out of. Slide it over the wedge bolt & arm and thread the "press" bolt into the pipe against the nut on the end of the wedge bolt to force it out Edit: Home depot has some black and galv sched 40 pipe. If it doesn't have to be too big of an id. I don't remember off the top of my head how big you would need. You might could just buy a close nipple the right size so you don't have to buy a long piece of pipe

The hose is actually rubber. It's just gotten that hard over time. A heat gun or boiling water can help make it more pliable to get it out or to get the tank neck into the tube

and he didn't update his thread!!!

Post a few pictures of the caliper, like Zed said

Is that on the 510?