Patcon

When you do the clutch be sure the throw bearing and collar stack to the proper height. Maybe some one can link to it for you. If the stacked height is wrong it can cause similar issues

No problem

I doubt that. There is a problem somewhere, but finding it...

Do the output shafts move when you do that? If they don't move, that is inside the diff. It could be re-shimmed but might not last or it could whine once it's re-shimmed

Do you know if the clutch has ever been replaced? There are other possible causes but they are not easily fixable

Cliff, If it were mine, I would only replace the places in the floor with patches that need it and replace the rusty frame rails. Now if you get it cleaned up and you find a lot more holes I might change my mind but on the car I am doing know that is what I did. I might have a partial floor pan from Charlie that would have the section you need. You would also need to get some frame rails. I'll be in "T-town" on Thurs evening until sometime late Friday Afternoon. If you wanted to try to meet up. I know you're pretty far North of I-20

That was oddly coincidental! It wasn't me...

Try to actuate the switch while it's not in th he tranny and see if the lights work

If you're running carbs, I am not sure I would expect much of a change with the oil cap on or off. Maybe someone else will confirm this

I believe it prevents oil that might leak out the rear seal from slinging around every where. That's my theory at least

I suspect they were lacking the boat anchor original mount or they wanted to mount it in such a way as to not interfere with the fuel pump. Your current install is much better in a number of ways

That doesn't do much for me but I bet it took a lot of work to get it that way.

Can you turn the AC compressor by hand? Not the clutch part but the actual compressor portion. I am not sure they can be turned by hand but still worth a check.

Steve gave you pretty good advise on the brake fluid before. If it were me I would use a DOT 3/4 compatible fluid. It won't surprise me if you have a leak somewhere. Many times a number of us are reading these threads but we don't get involved if you have already been given good advise

It's probably leaking from the rear of the striker arm. If it is; it's not an in car repair.

Take a better picture of the "pulley" on the lower drivers side of the car. The side view and a front-ish view

Will the collar on the old drive shaft move over to the new drive shaft?

$8,300 now!!! Runs in 4 days...

If you look at the map, that car is West of Wichita Falls. I was thinking it was further into Oklahoma than that. I have a car that was stored for a number of years in the yard. It is rusty in all kinds of areas that are not normally problem areas. Every year it gets harder to save

The green one's been sitting right there in the grass and snow for 20+ years! I wonder if there is any underside left to the car. Letting cars sit in the grass or dirt seems to destroy them really fast, from my experience

My suspicion, is someone bought it and shipped it to Ky. Then they got to look it over and bailed on it. Run it back through the auction and try to limit the damage. The "greater fools theory"

Yes, probably

I have dealt with Norm but it was an ok transaction, but could have been better. He would not be my go to source, if I could help it.

This is from the auction in Boston I believe the distortion above the wheel well, might be rust too The door is going to be a mess at the bottom and the rocker and dogleg are going to be a mess. So a lot of my perspective is just suspicion. It's a Massachusetts car for starters! The hood is a mess on the inside and looks like salt damage. A lot of the pictures are also taken from angles that don't show the typical rust areas. If the drivers side is this bad, then I figure the passenger side is the same or not far behind it. Also when I see cars get to this point where there are holes in the doors and rockers, then I figure floors are shot and possible front frame rails. So I am assuming it's fairly rusty. It's too bad because the interior looks pretty good. I am not against saving it, but I wouldn't want to start with $7,500 ($6,000 bid, $1,200 fees, $300 shipping) in the car.

gwri8 has a pretty good list. One item I find difficult to remove with out mangling is the drip rail trim. It takes a little practice to get them off with out distorting them. If your window seals are hard at all, I would just cut them and remove the glass. If they are still pliable, I would try to remove the glass with the seal or have a glass company do it. The front windshield is easy to break if you push it too hard. Mark, also makes a very good point. The sheet metal is very thin on these cars and a careless blaster will destroy a car very quickly. I would have them DA the whole car really well. They will find any trouble spots at that point. I don't think I would go looking for extra work. There are risks associated with stripping the car back to bare metal. You can develop surface rust and that can cause paint failures later. Even rust that is really not obvious; been there , done that. If the existing paint is adhered well, I don't believe I would pay someone to strip it off...