Patcon

I am sure I will build a motor at some point and may go turbo at some point. It will probably have 300-350HP at some point in the future. We have some great mountain roads near us and the stock brakes don't like those long twisty downhill sections. They would always get hot and smell. These should stay nice and cool no matter how hard I push! 😉

I agree, he should take them back. They're not close to being salvageable.. Too bad

I am replacing the fronts with larger Wilwood's too. If necessary I will add a proportioning valve to get the bias right. They don't really provide any instructions. So I decided Id make a thread

Differences?

Also if you're starting from drums you will need to remove the all the drum brakes, shoes, hardware and the drum backing plate. To remove it whole, requires pulling the stub axle. The medieval method is to cut it in half. I had to cut off my old adapter plates.They were an old design that I installed when I had the stub axles out. All the new designs only use 3 of the four backer plate holes

I have a small interference with my new headers and the intake manifolds. Has anyone else run into this? Here's my new shop helper! Already found the tools and the shiny exhaust. 😉

So I picked a direction for my rear disc brakes on my 240z project. After talking with Cody we decided the best long term fit would be to just upgrade to Wilwoods all the way around. The rear Wilwood upgrade offered by Silvermine has a separate mechanical handbrake caliper along with a four piston hydraulic caliper. New vented disc BP10 street pads New rotor versus the old rotor To install the the parking brake caliper this yellow zinc plate needs to be removed. The caliper will then bolt to the aluminum adapter plate that is is supplied by Silvermine. The antisqueal shims on the rear of the parking brake pads have to be removed also. They are still a very tight fit over the rotor. So I took a 2" Rolok and dressed the pads down a hair. They just fit over the rotors now There's a YouTube video I watched that shows slight reduced the diameter of the stub axle for clearance for the Rotor ID. I'm not sure I needed to but I did it anyway. I used a caliper to try to make them even all the way around.

I am exploring making a Euro balance tube out of this balance tube I got some new plugs for the end of the tube and I have a piece of 3/8" rebar to try to knock the plug out. Then I will trim off the extra lumps and take it to the welding shop that just recently TIG'd up Cody's exhaust. More to come...

Not surprising on Shawn's workload. I'm glad you found a solution!

I believe to go to the L28 crank you will need a crankshaft, block and front timing cover. Another option for the L24 crank is to buy one reconditioned out of the US market. Shipping would be the only real issue.

It's a pretty car, but that's a lot of money for a 280zx! Even a low mileage one. Especially without a turbo...

BTW if someone does decide to disassemble the speedo cable, don't be an idiot like me and forget to put the firewall grommet on before reassembly! Thankfully, the grommet will stretch over the speedo end of the cable. Although just barely

The manifold I just took apart had a different fitting at location #20 but I don't think it would be a problem to use that same Zcardepot part in all three locations. The part I had was a straight tube, threaded on one end with two notches on the other end like a straight head screw would have. I was planning to use the same nipple in all three locations. That was my plan at least.

So I debated trying this or not. I'm glad I did though So the water tubes in the intake manifolds have been there for 50 years; steel in aluminum. They are 19mm (3/4") I don't have a flare nut wrench that large. But I took the propane torch to it and they came out! This is the end of the water tube. There is a rubber o ring that goes against a conical seat at the bottom of the hole. Then I used the induction heater to try to get the nuts off the pipe They came off which was great! That tool is really impressive in what you can get apart. Then I bead blasted these parts I'm glad that I did because the tube has a pin hole. I believe this would leak because the seal is a the bottom of the nut at the seat. This pinhole would be inside the nut. So I found a piece of tubing. I couldn't find anything on Amazon but I found some 10mm OD 8mm ID tubing on Ebay. So I have 20" of that coming. I will try to replate all of this in the next few weeks I pulled the studs out of the manifolds too. And this is what I had I degreased then and put them into the bead blasting cabinet. After the first pass, I turned the air pressure down to about 60psi and blasted them again. This is how they came out. I'm really pleased they look this good! Then I treated them with Sharkhide. Before and after

Dooohhh! The info is good though

That's a good looking little car!

Harmons brakes might be able to source one or one close that could be modified. Yours looks much better than the one I reused

Cool!! I was assuming you weren't shipping the chassis back to San Diego but I knew that shop did really good work. It can be difficult to replace that kind of talent. Shawn looks very capable! It aught to be a beautiful car...

Who's going to do the body work?

I got into the shop one night this week. Worked on the clutch master, speedo cable and the hood release. I plated some parts last weekend for these items Here is the finished hood release When I took the end off the speedo cable, that allowed me to remove the spring and replate it Then I added heat shrink to the end where the jacket was missing and restaked it Then added a piece on the outside that is self sealing heat shrink All of the aluminum ends were bead blasted at really low pressure to clean them up. I did not put the cable jacket in the bead blaster though. You would never get it cleaned out! Finished cable

I wonder what that will bring? I have absolutely no idea what that's worth...

Any special techniques? Heat?

That's great! Well done

1986-88 I believe

Thanks for the help guys!