Everything posted by Patcon
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
I would drill out the spot welds if possible. I would think that would be the best method for the most invisible repair
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
Ideally, you would remove the whole tower and replace it. Or you could just move the center mount of the shock tower and patch in the metal around it to make it look right
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
It would be pretty easy to make those shock towers stock again. Provided you know how to MIG. Just make sure you get the front end on level and square. A frame rack would be best for that
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
Holes can be welded up...
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My 240z that's been sitting
Just the remember the float bowl hoses are unique. They are not standard fuel line. They are softer and more flexible
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Machine work on SU for roller bearings
So is the throttle shaft a custom part too?
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
I think the upper frame rail at the hood hinges is available as a repop. I don't think the front inner fender area at the radiator support is available but KF vintage might make it if asked
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1986 300zx detonation sensor question (running a 86 ecu on a 280zx turbo engine).
All of that is above my "paygrade" 😉
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73 240z won’t start. Have spark
@Zed Head you've done great. Very patient, very tenacious!
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73 240z won’t start. Have spark
I may be missing something but both cam lobes on #1 don't appear to be up in that picture...
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Restoration of BringaTrailer 240z - HLS30-35883
Where's my build thread for Mr. Rusty???
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L28 NA N42 Engine (Block and head)
Radiator cap could also be weak. Not holding proper system pressure
- 240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Georgia
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75 280Z - 5 speed swap from 81 280ZX - any catches I should be aware of?
I reused my mainshaft nut. Many times they don't end up in the exact same orientation after torquing with new parts. So you're peening down a fresh section. I believe the LH(?) thread ones are NLA. Some people have machined batches in the past and made them available to the forum.
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75 280Z - 5 speed swap from 81 280ZX - any catches I should be aware of?
I used black rtv
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75 280Z - 5 speed swap from 81 280ZX - any catches I should be aware of?
I don't use the search feature on the forum. I use a Google search and use "site:classiczcars.com" at the end. It will crawl this site alone for results. I get better results this way
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
I believe it was the really early cars, like pre 9/70. I believe my car is later than that
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
Now for my next challenge is the dash harness. I'm really starting to dislike PO'ers. The dash harness has lots of hacks in it. There appear to be 3 different dash harness from 9/70 - sometime in 71. I have other dashes I could use harnesses from but I don't know if they would work. Can anyone give me details on what changed and how hard adapting a 71 dash harness would be?
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
Yeah, I don't know what month that changed during production
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
Details on the flaps around the glove box and inside the dash Pretty much stripped with the pad still on it
- L20b Cody's Goon
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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build
So I did make it to the shop today for an hour or so. I put the hatch hinges back in with some sealant. They both go down nice and level to each other. Hopefully that is enough. I also worked on stripping the dash pad Here's where we started I recommend you take this piece at the glove box hinge out first and remove the hazard switch. I broke mine moving the dash around. Inside details
- L20b Cody's Goon
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73 240 su flat top to round top swap
I do love the optimism of youth! 😉 Fuel rail has to be hooked up and fuel return line. Brake booster port on manifold connected or capped. Any other vacuum leaks on the manifold need to be sealed or capped. It doesn't even really need coolant in it as long as you run it for only a very short while