Patcon

@inline6 I dont remember, what did you end up doing for carpet?

Yes, surprisingly they are magnetic

0.016" approx thick. They have two small tabs bent 90d on the top edge

I did finally get the diagram to plot. Took a number of different attempts and tactics

I have the precision door weatherstrips. I have had them for probably 10 years. I tried one of them today. That's gonna be a no go!!! I did eventually slam the door hard enough to get it to latch but it still won't sit flush to car. I will order the S30 weatherstrips this weekend

I started on one of the horns today, now that the blast cabinet is back up and running Started here. I believe these are Lily's original horns Blasted Split open The little center plate appears to be aluminum This plate I think was chromed but I will zinc it clear The other side

I rekeyed the glove box the lock today. I two to choose from. I believe the one with the plastic coated ears is from a later car but the key I am using wouldn't fit in the older lock. Ground the pin down and drove it out Exploded view It was a little bit of a pain to key but I got it done and reassembled

I also worked on sun visors last week because I wanted to chrome the bars they pivot on Disassembly The mirror end piece will just pull out, but getting a grip on it without marking it up is tough Screws for the visor to roof Screws that tighten the sun visor pivot Corner brackets

I got a new battery last weekend for Lily and a new battery frame I pulled together some pieces that need to be chromed. We'll see what these parts cost to get chromed There is a company in Australia that can make keys from codes or pictures. I got a price of about $40 for 2 new keys plus freight. On a whim I called my local locksmith to see if they could cut a key from a code. He could. so I took some Nissan blanks I had and he cut me two keys for like $22 I wanted to get a new key and be sure when I keyed them that the new key would work the rekeyed locks. It's good I did becoaul the new key wouldn't work the locked I already rekeyed. I also stripped a door latch for plating I also reworked the floor vents with new foam. 2mm foam on the flaps and some 6mm foam around the edges After the glue set, I trimmed these back

Any suggestions on how to repair this ash tray? I believe it is bakelite

So I have a Harbor Freight blast cabinet. It is probably 15 years old or older. I have wanted to do the Tacoma Company upgrades to it for years but I've never pulled the trigger because the timing was always bad. I finally bought the pieces last month. https://www.tacomacompany.com/ The original cabinet Cut the bars out from under the frame New funnel adapter on bottom of the cabinet Drilled a hole in the left leg for a new air regulator Two new holes for the air and media for the gun Regulator Cut the lower shelf back New box that covers the air intake on the left side of the cabinet Air flow is reversed in this new setup I had to silicone the screws at the glove cuffs because the static from the cabinet would shock the fool out of you Cut the spring steel screen down and wrapped it with metal screening to prevent little parts falling down in the cabinet Added a foot pedal for the cabinet versus a hand trigger New gloves inside and a fresh piece of glass I have a switch on top that cuts the LED's on in the cabinet and start a vacuum that sits outside the shop door I finally got the air all hooked up today. It's a totally different cabinet now!! I can see and it cuts really quickly. I have some new Bufferfly screws for a quick change glass setup

I wanted to plot the pdf larger but I couldn't get it to let me select a different paper size. Is there a way on your end to make it where I could plot it as a "C" size drawing?

Warp the stainless trim. If it gets curved or warped, it is very difficult to get it to lay down right in the new weatherstrip

I might. Id have to look this weekend

I use a razor to temove the trim. Don't try to remove it from an old weatherstrip otherwise or you will warp it

What year is your car? You should be able to move the clutch release lever by hand slightly. If it has a return spring, remove it first. If it's an adjustable slave cylinder, make slightly looser. Also before you do anything, you could crack open the bleed screw on the slave. If a little fluid squirts out the system is holding pressure. It should drip but not come out under pressure

I would suspect that the clutch arm is too long. You shouldn't have to depress the arm at all to hook it up!

Old planes 🙂

Yes, I believe that's where I got it

I like to use piece of unjacketed aircraft cable for this, maybe 1/8" or 3/16". Put a lot of carb cleaner down the line. Let it sit for a while and then feed the cable in. Chuck it up in a cordless drill and spin to help brush out the inside of the line. When I can feed it end to end with out interference, it's good. You could get a compressed air tank and air it up inside your place. Then use it to blow out the lines.

Yes, here #117

I really struggle with sorting the hardware. I just don't know it well enough anymore

I have two build threads We coated my sons header for his 510. My stainless header from Sean is so pretty, I hate to coat it

Also long as they're long enough to have enough sticking out to grab and unthread. I guess you could err on the long side and trim them if it's a problem. 5" seems excessive I did not coat my stainless header. I might if it seems too hot under the hood but probably not