Patcon

Any issues with a stage III came on an EFI car? I believe the OP is running EFI

You need to set the door with the fender on. Both ends need to line up. Get the fender end of the door right first. Use shims if necessary. One, or both or none is fine. If the rear doesn't line up, twist it like I illustrated in my "Lily" thread

Do you have a link too?

These numbers are based on an unwrecked car. They can vary wildly on old cars where overall condition throws the numbers around significantly But not nearly as elegant. The roof buckled too. But there would be a gold mine in little parts to strip off this car. I saw a set of window trim corners for $100 the other day. Not the long pieces just the corners! The little clips on the finishers, door locks, rear glass, badges, door sill finishers, choke cables. The SU's alone are worth $300-400. The dash looks really good if it's not a cap. Too far for me to consider, but I hate to see it go to scrap

Keep me in the loop. I may have 2 different locksmith's that might order them for me. I am also working on getting a tumbler kit. I ordered some pliers last night. I believe they are on a slow boat from China

https://www.copart.com/lot/25174219 This car was interesting until I saw the rear damage! There will still be a lot of good parts here. It should be really cheap!

Interesting link with tools and some caps. Not sure any of these caps are correct https://www.clksupplies.com/search?q=face*+cap*

What are you trying to do? Replace the actual glass?

I thought I covered this! I wouldn't add anything, CRC soft seal or other. If you prefer the older rubber, lens and chrome fine but I would spray anything on any of it!

Did you ever get's any pics of the welding in progress? I am interested to see how that was done and what materials were used.

Post it up publicly so I don't have to PM you too!

I'm not sure "brave" is the operative word. As I get older, I rely on my stones less and my brain more. That might apply in this instance too.

I'm ok with slow if the paint turns out like that!!! Looks great. I agree with Wheee!

Did you look to see if there was a window seal available with out the trim strip slot? I expect the trim actually helps hold the window in the car too

The lights look zinc plated with a blue chromate finish. They should last a long time with out adding anything. The one you took off is probably close to 50 years old, so I think you should be fine with out anything extra. Did you get the fuse issue fixed with the new lights?

They won't get it by convincing people it's time to move to another state! I wonder if you could call somebody like Summit racing and if they could recommend a product line that would fit your need. For me I would go to my locally owned muffler shop and pic their brain for the right product.

I'm about 9 years in right now. I have similar thoughts

Can't really help but I don't see how you guys out there put up with the stuff coming out of Sacramento!!!

Are you not using the rubber metal trims on the rear window seal?

It's a shame parts like this can't be reproduced. I love the idea of a little better lighting in an OEM setup

Cast iron is notoriously hard to weld. Doable but it takes the correct approach and the right welding rods or wire

Any idea on what size screen it needs to be ? How would you handle the edges? Are they banjo screens like the earlier carbs?

It's just a little helmet insecurity Yeah, I am looking forward to seeing if the new screen is vastly improved. My existing hat must be 5-6 years old now and 2 levels lower. So I'm sure the tech's changed some

They work now. Nice looking work space

Pictures don't work for me. It's best to upload them to the site. There they will remain even if Photobucket or any other hosting site sucks