Patcon

It's a shame parts like this can't be reproduced. I love the idea of a little better lighting in an OEM setup

Cast iron is notoriously hard to weld. Doable but it takes the correct approach and the right welding rods or wire

Any idea on what size screen it needs to be ? How would you handle the edges? Are they banjo screens like the earlier carbs?

It's just a little helmet insecurity Yeah, I am looking forward to seeing if the new screen is vastly improved. My existing hat must be 5-6 years old now and 2 levels lower. So I'm sure the tech's changed some

They work now. Nice looking work space

Pictures don't work for me. It's best to upload them to the site. There they will remain even if Photobucket or any other hosting site sucks

@wal280z Wayne, did that evap unit come out of a 240z? If it did I'll take it

What compression are you running?

Done, 3350 on the way

I agree with all of that I really didn't like the idea of digital controls. Analog controls seem more robust in my opinion. That may be unfounded, but it's my perception I don't grind in my welding mask and when I use the plasma cutter I use a set of #5 glasses. Although using the welding hood might be easier since I need readers all the time now. My 1840 has the shade control on the outside and when it's turned all the way down it clicks to grind mode Actually made by Pyramex 1/30,000 response time. Now you're just "muddying the waters"!

Did you get the 2450 Digital or the other continuous model? From what I can tell from Lincolns website The 1840 , 3350, 2450 & 2450D (listed by increasing price) all have replaceable batteries and they all darken in 1/25,000th of a second The biggest differences between them seem to be how many batteries they use and the number of shades they can attain. 1840 1 CR2450 shades 9-13 internal. Although I believe it is actually external like my existing helmet 3350 1 CR2450 shades 5-13 internal 2450 2 CR2450's shades 5-13 internal 2450D 2 CR2450's shades 4-13 internal The cheaper 1840 also only has 2 arc sensors. All the others have 4

Does the 2450 have a replaceable battery? I am looking at the 3350 and the Miller 281000 Digital Elite, but it had some poor reviews on the Miller website. I don't really want to see poor reviews on a hat that costs this much. I take some of them with a grain of salt because it's the internet but there was a decent percentage of them. The 2450 must be a step up from the 3350 based on the prices. I will go to the Lincoln site and look at that a little more The better viewing is nice but my biggest beef is battery access. I really believe if the batteries were changed out my existing hat would work fine. I am running really low current and evidently that can cause the batteries to drain more because the flash isn't as bright. I don't know if that is true or not

I am assuming Jim looked at it and determined the quarters were filled. That was one of the aspects that gave the car value until you find out they are previously damaged

@Captain Obvious Which hat did you just get for Xmas? My helmet worked ok for a little while today. Then it started to dim dark enough. So I am shopping for a replacement, even if I can get the batteries working right.

Well the hat worked for a little while and then kept dimming but not getting dark enough. So had to stop welding for the day ?

That's ambitious! Probably salvageable if the firewall and cowl area aren't too bad, but it's a lot of work and will probably need the whole right side of the engine bay. Along with a radiator support

3 years is a long time!! I have seen surface rust cause the same thing when they are left in bare metal too long

Yeah, I was wondering about adding heat to the batteries. I ended up finding batteries available online with the tabs already soldered onto them. But I can't get the board out of the ADF to properly add that type of battery. So I ordered some CR2430 battery holders that I can tack some wires to and then solder the wires to the board. I would mount the battery case outside of the ADF so they could be tested or replaced. At least that is the plan for now

Any ideas what caused the blistering? Rust? Solvent entrapment? The rotors are cool looking with that fish hook type grooving

I broke open the ADF on Cody's helmet that is a harbor freight model. The batteries are CR2430's. Supposed to be 3v but are measuring .96 and .04 volts. They are soldered to the board. I got one out already and have some more on the way in addition to some battery compartments that if I get it working, I will make them external and replaceable. Also I cleaned my ADF really well and the arc sensors and replaced the lenses. For the moment, it appears to be working. I will find out tomorrow. If it's still bad, I will crack it open and take a stab at the batteries

PM sent

Love that sewing machine!

Great! I am glad they're moving. I thought about negotiating with Rooney but decided against it. My quote from bumper classic was like $649. The other member who purchased from Rooney was more like $650. Maybe Rooney figures he can mark me up since the last bumpers fell through

It wouldn't dim when striking an arc. I messed with it for a while but couldn't make it dim. Then a few days later when the sun finally came out I took it outside and it dims fine in the sunlight and adjusts as it should with the ADF out of the helmet.

Ok So here is where I'm at. I did some searching and found what looked like 3 different companies selling these bumpers. Many times this is all the same company with different store fronts to maximize sales. So I contacted all 3. This was about Dec 23rd 18. The response came from bumperautomobile.com I got an immediate response from someone named "Amy". We worked through the details of what I wanted. No holes for rubber or over riders. JDM style bumpers. I got a PayPal invoice and paid it. They said they would ship this week. FedEx air. 10 days late I contacted them about when I would see the bumpers. At this point I didn't have a tracking number or anything. They said their "agent" would be in touch with me shortly. That's odd... I received a call from Maryland from some guy named Mike about my bumpers. He left me a voicemail explaining he had received some bumpers from Vietnam and they were not what he ordered and he had been instructed to ship them to me. He located my number online and reached out to me to see if this was all "up and up" Well, I called him back and we spoke for awhile. He had received bumpers that had no rubber holes but had over rider holes and he had been instructed to ship them to me. so the company out of Vietnam wanted to ship those bumpers to me, but they aren't what I wanted either!!!! Turns out Mike is on CZC @chiefmd Mike started a dispute at PayPal and I did the same on the same day. So real quick they contact me and tell me they are going to ship the bumpers. They send me a tracking number, but when you track it. It is shipping label created. Five days later it is still shipping label created , we will update when you item starts to move. So the seller contacts me and wants me to release payment from PayPal. Now they had my money for almost 3 weeks before I disputed it! I told them when I received the correct bumpers I would pay them. After a little more research, you can't just release payment at PayPal and if you mark the complaint as resolved you can't reopen it. So if I pay them I am SOL if the bumpers get here and aren't right. So I escalated the complaint at PayPal. I told PayPal they can ship me the bumpers and I will pay them or they can refund my money. The next day I had a full refund. I have since reached out to Rooney at Bumperclassic.com. Rooney responded after I had originally purchased the other bumpers and told me "Amy" was from the "other" company. So there is more than one vendor for these SS bumpers. I still suspect they are all made on the same presses in China. He responded. He quote $778 shipped to me in the US. I am on the East coast. So I am going to try a second time to get bumpers. Until I get a good rear bumper I am hamstrung on rebuilding the rear of the car.